hi, i just *&^#ed up my vafpr ajusting screw, i accidentally stripped it out, do i have to special order one, or can i go to my local ace nuts and bolts and hope they have an identical screw?

 

I would iamgine that you can find a replacment screw that will fit in there. Did you at least get he screw out? Maybe you can clean the threads up or did you just strip the head?

 

the screw is still inside the threaded cup, i have no i dea how im gonna get it out, could i drill it out and retap it?

 

Try using a dremel to make a new slot or groove in the head of the screw. You should then be able to get a normal screw driver on it.

 

thats just what lon suggested, ill give it a try and let you know how it goes

 

okay, i fixed it, i cut the slot in the screw and took out the screw, and cut it down a little bit, but i don't know how accurate i am on the adjustment, so do you know where i can hook up a pressure gauge?

 

Adjusting the fuel pressure with any regulator is a trial and error deal. Some have set PSI values based on the number of turns of the srew. The unit you have increases pressure every 1 psi for every 2.5 turns in from flush (screw head flush with regulator top). This is where data logging comes in to see what klind of changes are happening when you increase and decrease the pressure.

 

well i had to cut the screw down a couple millimeters, so what i did was, i remembered how far the screw was poking out when it was flush at top before i removed it and cut it, then put it back so that it was poking out about the same amount, then went by lons instructions of 7 turns giving 8 psi at idle (or 11 psi w/ delay valve)and 15 at wot...could this be accurate enough?

 

You need to go by your measurement + the amount of cut off. That would be my geuss. Sounds like the screw is not protruding in the same distance now since you cut it.

 

well before it cut it, when it was flush, it would protrude into the spring cup about a mm, so when i cut it, i screwed it back in so it was protruding into the cup the same distance, or close at least, so the 7 turn instruction should still apply, correct? i might just have to hook it all up and see how it runs, but im hoping it close, when i hook up the delay valve, do i hook it up so the distributor end is pointing towards the regulator?

 

Ok I got ya. You should be fine.

 

when i take my tbi off can i get away with using the same gasket if im careful, i put it a new one on only about 2000 miles ago when i did my ultimate tbi mods

 

I just installed the same regulator and I also stripped the torque head. I had to drill the screw out, retap and put in a different screw.

I'm also wondering how to hook up a fuel pressure gauge?

 

did you find a tap with that fine of a thread pattern? or did you go with a courser thread? so far everyone ive asked has pretty much said adjusting it is trial and error, but on the back of the instruction sheet lon sent me he said he used a autometer 0-100 psi electronic fuel pressure gauge, which i don't know how he hooked up???

 

My geuss is that he hooked it up in the feed line and measured the pressure at WOT. Now I am not sure if he did this or not but it is highly inaccurate. It would be more accurate with the stock pump since you would see a tremendous variation in pressure drop. Maybe he ran some tests with a pre-set GM value and based his results comparatively, I am not really sure.

My geuss is that he meassured feed line pressure and when he the car is running he uses the difference in pressure to be what is going past the regulator. So say the feed line pressure is 50 psi in the line with the car off. If he records 35psi feed line pressure at WOT than you could sorta say that 15 psi was bled off at the regulator.

 

I ran around all day trying to find a T fitting or something I could use to mount the fuel Pressure gauage. I'm trying to mount it between the hard line and the soft line at the front of the engine bay but nobody knows the size or even has anything to go there. Its not AN 6 or 8 and I found out its AN 7 but they don't make AN 7 fittings. So I'm kinda out of luck for one day unless someone has anything they can fill me in on.

 

Try a search. You can get the Summit gage for like 30 bucks and just splice it in the line. No T is required.

 

I didn't really want to cut anything but I guess I"m gonna have to to get in installed.

 

Yes I cut the supply line and put a ferrule tee with a 1/8 npt fitting (matched the pressure sender for the gauge). My only mistake was getting a 0-100 psi gauge which is more appropriate for a TPI car.

Lon

 

will this give an accurate reading?

 

i stripped mine as well. i think the best way is to put a torch on it and it will free up. i ended up shimming the spring instead. discontiued using it by the way. maybe they put a high psi loctite on it. not sure. aeroquip has a multitude of fittings to help you out. fortunate for me the local distributor is in my town. mail order on that is difficult

 

I stripped the expensive torx security tip I special-ordered trying to get it adjusted. Then I punched out the pin in the center and used a standard torx fine. I believe GM started using the loctite after I got mine. That is why I updated the instruction sheet to include the blurb about heating it before attempting to adjust the adjusting screw. Also don't adjust it against the spring force. back off the 4 screws holding the cup (reduces the spring tension on that adjusting screw) adjust it, then re-tighten the 4 screws.

I'm having a heck of a time getting the vacuum delay valves recently for some reason. I had to pay UPS charges to have four shipped to me from a NAPA in Oregon. Maybe I'm depleting their national stock? C'mon NAPA get with it and order more!

Lon

 

Well they did change the part numbers on them a long time ago. Right when you first started selling the correct spring you gave me a part number for them. They actually still have both numbers in their database even though they are the same part. I am sure they have since gone with one and that you are aware of this. I remember it was such a pain to find that valve.

 

on the delay valve, the distributor end faces the vafpr correct?

 

This should help.

 

black end being the distributor end? cuzz mines a different color

 

Just breath in it and feel which way provides the resistance. You want the resistance side going to the regulator. So the end that allows air in cleanly needs to be connected to the regulator.

 

alright, thanks man

 

http://www.cfm-tech.com/Catalog/fuel...er_2940807.htm