okay guys i have a lil problem my car misses a lil while driving and at high rpms like it chokes stalls it runs wierd i dunno i cant pass like 3700 rpm.also how many of u guy are running lt1 cam with the stock tbi and stock regualtor any troubles because i have a gm vacumn one and i plug it up and thats the only way my car runs almost perfect fuel pressure while plug is like 19 psi connected like it should 9 psi idle about 14 wot so it doesnt run right connected the way it should .should i put back on the stock regulator ?they tell me its a hard decision.what can it be that my car wont go to 5500 rpm i have a af ratio gauge and its good at idle and gos rich driving not all the way though so help me out

 

Try a few periods first. Sorry I couldn't resist but your posts are hard to read. You have chip problems. The only way to remidy your problem is to start data logging and burning some new chips. Your AF ratio gage is nothing more than a toy. The stock 02 is horribly inacurate when stociometric condictions vary by more than a few percent. I want back the $50 I spent on mine as well, so don't feel too bad about it.

 

I'm running an L98 cam in my RS and I have the same problems with running rich. You have several choices. You can learn to burn them yourself, get someone to burn for you or find someone in your area that does dyno tuning in your area that can work with TBI computers.

 

im getting a new chip for my car next week and i will see wat happens

 

Although it may be better, the chip burning is an ongoing process of data logging, analyzing and burning and may take several dozen burns to get right. But each one should bet better and better.

 

i see i hope it fixes the problem how many of u guys are running lt1 cams?

 

I'm not, but I wish I had.

 

p.e.r.i.o.d.s. a.n.d. o.t.h.e.r. p.u.n.c.t.u.a.t.i.o.n. m.a.k.e. t.h.i.n.g.s. e.a.s.i.e.r. t.o. r.e.a.d. [/sarcasm]

Anyway, that being said, I agree with shift. It sounds as if your issues are the tune. Also, I don't have TBI, but 9 psi seems a bit low. Perhaps fuel delivery plays a role.

 

Yea 9 psi is low...but thats normal for a tbi.

 

i going to get chip that will give me like 15 psi because i plug up my regualtor and i have 20 psi now and the car runs alot better almost perfect so brian is going to try to bring the psi to like 14 psi and that should alot of issuses because im running rich

 

This may help the car idle better but it will not run anywhere to its potential. You should at least send him some data logs so he can make changes to the fuel and spark tables.

 

he told me to do a volt meter test on the o2 sensor while im driving and give it wot and send him the voltage that i got he .9-1 to rich and will have to put back on stock regualtor .7 and down to lean perfect .8

 

Information on the o2 tuning at WOT.

Per HOLLEY. in their commander 950 software.

Tune the o2 values at WOT to be anywhere above 800mv, it is not accurate enough other than to say 'i'm rich, or i'm lean' You cannot use this as a way to tune. Even holley says so, on their $1k computer system.

how are you going to give him exact RPM's with the spefic values of hte o2, what if your tach is off by a hair, and you changes teh wrong cell? maybe you go dangerously lean. what if he assumes that you are in the 100Kpa cell, when you are realy in the 95Kpa?This here is a PERFECT example of why at least actualy dataloging should be done. there is no way you will EVER EVER EVER tune the car by mail, and with a DVOM.

Best guess as to your problem. The timign table is way off, your kcock sensor is sensign something. Due the aggresive attack rate, and very slow recovery rate in the chip, it is killing yoru timing. That coupled with bad fueling, and a lean condition are killing you.

Here is what is going to happen if you just give it more fuel. You saturate the combination to the point of quincing the knock. but the stock o2 values cannot tell you are just dumping raw fuel. So you have an overly rich tune, and a bad timing setup. so you never get to see the benifits of the mods you just spent your hard earned money on.

 

how do i datalog my car wat do i need?brian is going to help as much as possible okay

 

You need a lap-top (if you don't have one, you can find used ones on e-bay for under $100) You need win-aldl (http://winaldl.joby.se/) and a cable (schematics on the winaldl site.)

the problem is, there A LOT of fine tuning needed on the timing table. Those of us who do tune our own cars, know the number of chips needed to find this. It takes track times, data-logging and some trial and error. Every engine is slightly diffrent, and 1 or 2 degrees, in just a few cells can make a big diffrence on drivablity, and WOT performace. The question is going to be if Brian is going to be willing to burn 100 chips, over the next 6 months, based on track times, datalogs, and your input on drivability. Because that is what it is going to take.

 

Quote: "so brian is going to try to bring the psi to like 14 psi". i dont understand?
i would think a vafpr will confuse the issue. i would lose that for sure, if you are burning chips yourself or mail order. i used it(vafpr) a while ago as a substitute(a poor one) for real time tuning. i see no reason why you can set fp at 14 with stock reg and go from there. only way i wouuld reconsider vafpr would be if i added CID to a point where my 80/90 lbs inj's are short on fuel at 100 map/WOT. even then i would be tuning with wb02.

 

okay i have the gmvafpr but i plug it up so there is no line going to it and before my fp was 9 psi and 14 wot and car ran like **** so brian told me to plug it up and car ran almost perfect with fuel pressure at 20 psi and like 18 wot so i dont think stock regualtor will be good i put it back on bored and it ran like **** again so i put back on the vacunm regualtor

 

Yes you cannot use the stock regulator for any cam swap. Your fuel demands are now greater. You have "band-aided" the situation as of now. You can really play with fuel pressures once you start burning your own chips.

 

well i just finish looking to this site i will buy a cable from them i then download the winadl to check my car once i have everything ill ask how u work the program and ill send brian the info i get back and then i should be heading the right way also wat did u meant by this You have "band-aided" the situation as of now

 

It means you just put a band-aid on it, as a temporary fix. You need to do chip tuning to completely repair the situation.

 

well as long as it runs good and does good gas mileage i really wont go to crazy of doing my own chips but i will do my own one day for the best performance and gas mileage

 

You will be lucky if you get 10mpg. I am glad you are at least going to do some data logs. You have made a step in the right direction.

 

10 mpg that not all bad thats 140 city miles thats good i tune it to save gas well yeah me and my buddy are going to buy all the gear to datalog and tune like in 2 months

 

10 mpg's blows....real bad.

I get 23 mpg's after all my mods and a so-so tune.

The TBI 305 was supposed to be an economical V8. If your getting only 10 mpg because your running rich, there is something seriously wrong and it could screw up something else like your cat and O2 sensor.

 

well remember i have an lt1 cam that changes everything when i had the stock cam i did like 27 mpg highway like 15 mpg city

 

With the right tune you should be able to get the same mileage out of your LT1 cam as well.

 

shifty didnt u tell 10 mpg was about it?

 

yeah with NO tuning like you're doing. He's saying 10mpg is crap for a fuel injected 305 and it is. You can get way better than that, you need to get into tuning, it isn't hard. That car is begging you to tune it. Why drop all that money into a rebuilt engine with a new cam if you're not going to tune it for best performance?

 

That was a geuss. I would doubt you would get better than that on the stock tune. My buddies vortec 305 got 3mpg when he first started tuning.

 

ohh okay well yes as soon as i can buy my own tuning equipment i do my own tuning

 

i also would like to find out if he is using the spring that came with that regulator??? i used to post on here a few years ago and i remember us talking about how if you used the gm vpr the spring was too weak or too strong. i can't remember wich and you had to order a special spring from top down solutions .
before i switched to carb i used the stock fpr with the lt1 cam for about a year with no drivability issues. it also got 28 mpg going from va to ga so while you are waiting to burn your chips do some searches for the spring. it had a certain amount of pressure that it used i think around 13 something but i may be wrong. hope that will help your bandaid a lil...

 

so there is a diffrent spring for the gmvr?and u ran with the stock regulator fora year with no problems i think im going to try putting the stock regualtor and telling brian to send me a chip using the lt1 cam and the stock regualtor wat u guys think?

 

i believe the gm-vafpr is a high FP application. possibly 25-32 lbs(i guessed ). the spring is very strong(orange) not sure but i thought it was used in a a big block marine engine 502 cid. i may be wrong. i never used that spring(orange). i used the one from my stock gm/fpr in my vafpr. i believe i am at 11.5 lbs.

 

do u have an lt1 cam though?the spring from tds says it adjustes from 12-20psi and the delay vavle reduces bogging at hard acellration.and helps the loss of fp when u let go of the gas

 

If you have the GM vafpr you cannot use the stock orange spring. You need to get the spring that lon sells at Top Down Solutions. It has a higher spring rate than stock but less than the one that comes with the unit.

 

i already place the order for the spring and i bought the delay vavle at napa today so im set when the spring arrives and then i will post results

 

shifty nailed it. i did not use TDS spring since i have 80 lbs inj and did not need FP over 13 per WOT WB02.