Aluminium roller rockers...
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Aluminium roller rockers...
I was lookin for quick ways to get a couple horses out of my L03, and someone suggestiond aluminum roller rockers. Supposedly, you can get 10-15hp out of em. Anybody got experience?
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Dont use aluminum. Id use steel rockers like teh comp cams pro-mags. Theyll be more consistant but I dont know if itll be worth 15 HP. Maybe if you use 1.6 ratio rockers.
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I can see how steel would be more consistant, but I thought the big idea behind aluminum roler rockers was to reduce the valvetrain weight and friction?
Wat all would I have to change when I got new ones? I'm assumin pushrods, but what about springs and such?
Wat all would I have to change when I got new ones? I'm assumin pushrods, but what about springs and such?
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Originally posted by drifter-x
I can see how steel would be more consistant, but I thought the big idea behind aluminum roler rockers was to reduce the valvetrain weight and friction?
Wat all would I have to change when I got new ones? I'm assumin pushrods, but what about springs and such?
I can see how steel would be more consistant, but I thought the big idea behind aluminum roler rockers was to reduce the valvetrain weight and friction?
Wat all would I have to change when I got new ones? I'm assumin pushrods, but what about springs and such?
They're not worth 10-15hp, that's just a sales pitch. I bet when they did the dyno to get the 15hp they took a 350 with really large heads (that only flowed well at high lift) and put a cam in there that was low lift, then swapped in 1.6 rockers.
I'd expect 5hp but 15 is a lofty claim. Oh, and it really isn't about valvetrain weight as much as it is reduced friction. Now if you were reving that poor little L03 above 6000rpm we might think about the valvetrain weight!
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
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Engine: Sb2.2 406
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Like above, get the Pro Magnums if you are wanting a full roller rocker. They are lighter than aluminum and have a far better fatigue resistance than aluminum. Another plus side to the Pro Mags, they are fully rebuildable so they can be taken apart and serviced if need be.
If you want to reduce valve train mass, get rid of the factory retainer setup. Exhaust rotators and all that crap weight a lot on the valve spring.
Depending on your engine, you would need self aligning, unless you want to make the conversion to non-SA and do some pushrod guide plates and screw in studs (which isn't a bad thing at all).
If you want to reduce valve train mass, get rid of the factory retainer setup. Exhaust rotators and all that crap weight a lot on the valve spring.
Depending on your engine, you would need self aligning, unless you want to make the conversion to non-SA and do some pushrod guide plates and screw in studs (which isn't a bad thing at all).
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Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
The reason to use steel is that unlike other non-ferrous metals, its the only one that posseses infinite fatuge life, proveded the stresses arnt excessive. Aluminum will eventually break if subjected to any sort of repeating stress, whether its in a month, or 10,000 years.
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From: Chicago, IL
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Possibly, let me figure some things out for sure with this setup and I'll let ya know down the road a little if you still have them.
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