swerve-driver

I meant to make frequent posts as I progressed with my swap, but have been working too much to make regular posts.

The new setup (383 T56) is in and being broken in and tuned.
I post no pictures, only information about the setup. This engine does not look any different from the previous vortec 350, save for the shiny aluminum heads.

ENGINE
Short Block
The 383 is based around the GMPP ZZ383/425 http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/perfpart...on=ce&cat=9274 . Main departure is the balanced 383 rotating assembly is a hypereutectic setup from Competition Engineering http://www.competitionengineering.co...goryBrowse.asp . The block and just about everything else is identical to the GMPP crate engine. Since I do not have the 3.80" stroke crank from GM (~$1000- zoinks!) I have the 3.75" throw crank so am actually at about 377ci or so. The compression ratio on the GMPP engine is lower (9.1) than mine (9.6). This was my first build up from a bare block.

Engine Delay
I've had the engine in for about two weeks but have been chasing a tick on the passenger side of the engine. It turns out that when I D-ported my SLP 1.75" headers to match the Fastburn heads, I created a small leak at the header flange-tube interface. SLP failed to weld completely on the radius (it is pretty tight there) of the center two tubes and with my grinding, it created a small slit opening. No big deal, but boy did I do a lot of jacking around to find that out. I have been adjusting valves and looking at rockers, push rods lifters for the last two weeks and all this time it has been the header leak. The heater hose stethoscope is goofy sounding, but it finally pointed me right to the problem.

My engine setup modus operandi has not changed from the vortec 355. All emission equipment and AC is retained.

TBI and Intake
I had previously promised a brief review of Tom Bishops (ebay guy selling TBI boring services) work http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33558

There are a few things I was not entirely happy with. I sent him all the parts from the TBI body, as directed. It was returned with a plastic-rubber seal missing (the shaft seal on the TPS end). His old ad stated they would install new throttle shaft bushing for “that silky smooth feel” (ad since edited) or some such non-sense. Didn’t happen. Had to send it back and they installed a new shaft. I had posted in one of Prevosts threads- I couldn’t believe that a steel throttle shaft would wear before the potmetal housing, but it did.
I had already eliminated the ridge around the top of the bores on my TBI, so Tom did do me the service of working on and returning my TBI base unit (no exchange).
I do not mean to pan Tom’s work- it is good quality at a fair price. In addition, Tom made the original oversight right, no questions asked. All in all, the unit is performing nicely. I had to drill out the idle circuit passages, wasn’t about to pay the extra for that. Piece of cake, but it took time to do it correctly.

I had the GMPP Vortec TBI intake bored out at a local machine shop (Richfield Machine- Genoa City, WI). No problems and good work. EGR is being addressed the same way it was with my previous motor. I have now routed the AIR to both headers while still drawing EGR from the Drivers side. No troubles with this and no error codes.

I installed an AFPR on the TBI. I used it to set my fuel pressure as low as possible (19lbs) with the new Walbro pump. See ECM TUNING. The 65# 9c1 injectors are working well.

Misc. Engine
The Fastburn heads I used were not drilled to accept serpentine brackets. I had to customize the passenger side bracket and fabricate an additional bracket to make it all click. No problems here.

swerve-driver

TRANSMISSION
Trans / Clutch / Flywheel
The T56, mondo CF flywheel and dual friction pressure plate were not cheap. I bought the brand new T56 (non-retrofit) on Ebay a while back from private seller who couldn’t use it. It has the CAGS unit eliminated from the factory. The clutch (CF 700177) and Clutch/PP (DF039020) have worked well from the beginning.
I am still in 500-mile break in so have not reefed on the clutch/PP. Yet. The stuff bolted together nicely. The installation of the newer style hydraulic clutch linkage was a little tough, but pretty straight forward.
As TKOPerformance points out in Mr.Dudes excellent thread https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hlight=t56+faq the detail of exhaust hanger bracket construction is oft overlooked. I made a custom bracket and it took me most of the day to make it work correctly. Other than that, everything went in nice.

Speedometer Calibration
I used the Dakota Digital SGI 5B unit. I wired it per the instruction booklet using Output #3. Switches 3 and 4 are in the “On” position. The “Up” and “Down” buttons are used to adjust the speedometer readout to actual speed while driving. Doesn’t get any easier than that.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd126.htm

T56 Trans Mount and Torque Arm
I installed Spohn’s T56 trans mount/torque arm setup #307. http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1302 This is a nice piece and I will do everything I can to try break it, though I believe my stock rear end in the current weak link. The unit had good and clear instructions and installation was not difficult. The front DS loop fits fine. The unit is very HEAVY. As many of you know and as his business shows, Steve is a good man with a good business.

I was able to use my existing driveshaft. The T56 does require trimming about 1.5” inches in on the back of the shifter opening in the body. The Reverse lock is left un-powered. The un-powered solenoid in it’s “lock” position provides a good amount of resistance to prevent accidentally shifting into reverse while driving.

swerve-driver

ECM / TUNING
Idle
I started out using my vortec 350 bin for startup (8746 box). Basically the AXKW bin with modified fuel and spark tables (originating from an ANLU bin supplied by Rbob). The increase in fuel pressure caused it to run rich, but using a combination of WinALDL and Prominator, idle was quickly brought under control. For a “big” cam, the idle quality is very nice. I have it set to 900 and actual idle is right around 950. Very smooth with a light rumble.

Light Cruise
Over the past few days, I have been tuning for light cruise and have BLMs in the 125-135 range. The fuel tables took some sweeping changes to account for the higher fuel pressures. I am now increasing spark until I run into small amounts of knock so I can give the spark tables the initial adjustment.

WOT
I need to get more miles on the clutch/pp before wailing on the new setup. Performance will indicate the direction I need to go with tuning from here. I have had the motor up in the 3500 RPM range and know this thing is going to bark loudly during hard use. Can’t wait to do it. Well actually, I can wait- so I don’t have to replace the ~$800 flywheel/clutch/pp combo due to roasting it.

Prominator
I cannot say enough about the Prominator and how it allows quick adjustment during initial tuning. This thing is great and has allowed me to accomplish more in 4 days of tuning than 4 weeks using the old method. http://www.speedtronics.net/aboutprominator.asp
There is probably better stuff out there for monitoring engine function but WinALDL has provided me with the info required to tune the combination.

KintaroOe

keep us posted man, and keep up the good work.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like you have a great combo there. I can't wait to see some track times from that beast.

BMmonteSS

We may have another TBI vehicle deep into the 12's here! Sounds like a bad asp setup, I'll be the first to say your gonna need some bigger injectors. I know my 70 lb'ers are barely adequate at 21 psi with a crappy 350. Keep us updated and good luck!

JPrevost

Take it easy and if I could recommend one tool as insurance it's a wideband oxygen sensor setup. Run on the conservative side with SA and get your fuel squared away.
Right now you're running ~86# injectors. There are 2 of them (duh ), now let's assume they're open 100%, now imagine port injection with 8 injectors. You're basically running 21.5# injectors if you had port injection. Does that sound like enough injector for you? I hope not. I have to run 28psi in mine to keep the engine from going lean up top, I bet you'll have the same issue. I'd set the pressure to 25psi, set the injector constant correctly, THEN tune idle and part throttle. Don't get caught wasting your time with the idle now when later you'll have to go back and redue everything because you didn't have enough injector.
Other than that, have fun and remember that the fastburn and 383 doesn't need much SA so the stock tables of the ANLU (350 tbi) will be close. If you want some help let me know through e-mail and I'll take a look at your current bin and send you something to try.

swerve-driver

Just got back from Mexico (Monterrey) on work related travel- boy did I see a pimped out ~90RS down there. Gleaming chrome everywhere. Ball Hitch, fart cannon-style mufflers hangin way low, etc.. I almost cried knowing I had no camera to record that bit of unfortunate equipment. Also curb feelers. Hell, there aren't even curbs down there, but if they put some in, that guy will be ready for them!

Thanks all for the posts. In repsonse;

1. Yes.... particularly for the sake of the clutch.

2. I am going to leave it as is for the first 400-500 miles. everything is running smoothly and since I am not wailing on it (see #1) I believe it will get me through the brake in. To be honest, I have no problem hacking out a new fuel map when I turn the pressure up once everything is broken in and I am ready for upper RPM charges. Prominator = no problem tuning. It is enjoyable knowing that so much more is getting done instead of tunning the old way. I agree the WBO2 would be a help, but they are expensive and I get a pretty quick read out of the stock (new) O2 sensor. I am looking to purchase one to split with a buddy of mine.

3. I have advanced the tuning to a point where the engine is very responsive, I have a nice idle and the car is running smoothly up to ~3000 RPM. I get 1 to 5 knocks in a scattering of cells during a ~0.5 hr. drive. All very normal city driving nothing heavy at all. I am expecting to have some spark tuning to do when I get into upper RPM range. Looking forward to tuning it with Prominator.
The RBob supplied ANLU tables (modified for my 350vortec) are very close all in all.

I would be interested in better understanding the code associated with setting up a shift light at RPMs where the engine is making peak power. I read up on RBobs threads but my limited (make that virtually non-existant) understanding of code and assemblers etc.. makes it tough. I understand the concepts but the actual doing is tough going.

S-D

DM91RS

Glad to see that the swap and tune are going well for you.

What rear gears are you running and how is that Dakota Digital SGI 5B unit working for you?



DM

BMmonteSS

Just to let you know I ran into a situation with my injectors going static when I was first learning the ropes. The NB O2 sensor stayed pegged over 1 volt even though I was going way lean. I lucked out and didn't burn a piston, but it could have been ugly. I didn't know how lean I was going till I got a WB and put that particular bin back in the car just to see what was going on. MY AFR would climb into the 18 to 20 range when the injectors went static. The NB was blind to it all. You really need to consider selling a kidney and getting a WB. It's worth it.

swerve-driver

Stock gears and rear end- 3.08, pretty sure.

The Dakota Digital unit is nice it has two buttons- up and down, so that while driving, you can adjust the speedo to match your actual speed. Very straight forward and easy to use.
No trouble at all.
S-D

DM91RS

Thanks SD...........I'm looking to change to 3:73's and needed some way to adjust.

What do you use to check the actual speed with?

DM

swerve-driver

I was out logging data with WinALDL and found one of those "Your Speed Is" deals parked on the side of the road- only like 5 minutes from my house.

It took two passes and I had the thing set dead nuts on. Just drove at the Speed detector so the sign was showing a steady speed (35mph) and then I adjusted the DD unit to make the speedo show 35.

You can also have a friend pace you at a set speed (maybe 40 or so) and adjust it that way

One thing- if you use it, remember that you have to hold the Up or Down button for quite a while before seeing noticable change in the speedometer. It adjusts fairly slow, but it does adjust. The "slow" adjustment makes it possible to get it set very accurately.

My fan temp switch disconnected on the way to work today, so when I looked down at the coolant temp, it was at about 220F (normal cruise temp is 160F), just as I was pulling off to see what the deal was, my windshield fogged and about 10 seconds later I had a small pond of antifreeze in the passenger footwell- Hello heater core replacement. This should be swell time!

S-D

DM91RS

Thanks for the info SD.

Too bad about the heater core.....I've been smelling "that" smell also and hoping for the best. I don't really have time for a core change right now.

weberflorida

iTrader: (2)

Dude your car is sounding very awesome. Let us know when you get some numbers.

Where do you guys get the money for all this ****???

Bill

swerve-driver

I worked and attended college for 11 straight years and wound up with 6 different degrees. Scored a job in Research and Development and am just now getting around to doing all the stuff that I dreamed about for those 11 years.

A long way around, but am getting there-

S-D

Also- per my earlier post: Replacement of heater cores in third gen Camaros is a gigantic drag. It actually rivals the replacement of the fuel pump in terms of brutality. It is just way to hot spend lots of time under a dashboard when I should be driving. Ah well.

swerve-driver

Heater core sucessfully replaced.
Access to the top screw on the heater box cover is best accessed by removing the dash and Passenger Side speaker (IMO). This was the major hang up of the whole operation. It is possible to get at it from beneath, but unless you know exactly what you are after (ie.. you have done it before) it is nice to be able to see the screw and you can only do this from the top. A long ~8" 1/4" extension and swivel are improtant to have for this particular screw.

It also helps to have access to a circus midget or other type of "small person" for manuvering under the dash. Total time without assistance (for me) was ~5 hours- as many on the boards have estimated.

Back to break in.
S-D

swerve-driver

J Prevost

I am not familiar with the math behind that-

Can you let me know how you arrived at the 86# value?


Just not sure how you are going about that--

PM is fine- any info appreciated

Gracias
S-D

BronYrAur

iTrader: (1)

If they are 65# injectors that are rated at say 12psi and you have them at 19psi you can correct it with this equation:

65# * SQRT(New Pressure/Old Pressure) = New Flowrate

65# * SQRT(19/12) = 81.7898 ~82#

Low C1500

Sounds like a sweet setup, Have you gotten your hands on Rrobs ultimate code? If your ruuning stock code, and you can make it pull hard to 6500rpm with no poping, you'll be a better tuner than me.

I know how you feel about the new clutch, I replaced my clutch in my cummins (one that could handle 1200 ft/lbs), and the first day out I gave it a little too much throttle going up a hill, and the clutch slipped real bad, after a few hundred miles it was good to go.

swerve-driver

Ah- I was unaware of the square- where does that come from? Are the injector flows squared or something?

Thanks-
S-D

kdrolt

It comes from the math equation for flow along a streamline. If you start with Bernoulli's equation for steady incompressible flow and work it into the right form to relate new flow rate from old flow rate, you need the square root function on the ratio of the fuel pressures. I worked it out once (using the above method), and posted it, on the GM TBI digest on Yahoo.... so it's probably still there. It's a good exercise for ME/CE types that have had fluids.

Bernoulli's equation is misnamed -- Euler did it first, but Bernoulli applied it a lot. FWIW, HTH.

swerve-driver

Kdrolt-
Cool- thanks for the good info.

It is always depressing to me that I have to re-read something like that dot.gov article 5 times before I thoroughly understand it, but those guys were able to identify measure and assimilate the information way back in the 1700's.
I suspect the absence of television and snack foods had alot to do with their persistence and brilliant work-

S-D

swerve-driver

Finally had some time to resolve the oil leak hampering my progress with the 383.

As the photo shows, one of the connecting rods swung in and took a handsome portion of my oil pan gasket right along with it.

I laid the gasket and pieces on a bare block to show the location of the interference.
Third bolt hole back (second small hole) on the drivers side. Hook line and stinker.

Although, if this is the only problem on my first complete engine build-up, I am very pleased.

Problem is resolved. I trimmed the new gasket in the appropriate places prior to installation and finished the job yesterday.

It took quite a bit of digging to snag the last bits ‘o gasket out of the pan. I was not able to get the pan out due to the T56 trans, no matter how much I raised the engine. My dad pushed me to keep at it until we found the last remaining piece of gasket in the bottom of the pan.

In the mean while, on the advice of BmmonteSS, I sold a kidney and purchased a WBO2 (zeitronix) and installed that. This thing is the bee’s knees. I see that all my tuning to date (up to 3500 RPM) has been right on. Tonight I was out burning the teats off my tires and find that, according to the WBO2, up to 4500 I am in the clear. The motor pulls nicely.

The power of the new 383 reminds me of the Vortec 350 I recently had, but the tires keep on spinning through higher RPMS.

It is fully possible that I may have to up my fuel pressure and re-tune at higher RPMS but that will not be a problem with the Prominator and AFPR.

swerve-driver

After more driving and tuning today, the improvement in traction and reduction in wheel hop (reduced to virtually none) from the Spohn TA and cross-member a obvious. It is a good piece, despite its weight.
S-D

swerve-driver

Finished the installation of the Zeitronix unit this morning. The wiring diagrams on the DIY site were indespensable for tapping RPM, TPS and MAP signals for the unit (corretly the first time).

Not sure who is responsible for all the good information on that site, but RBob's name keeps poping up on a lot of searches and other pages.
Regardless- gracias to the guys making that happen- it is much appreciated.

S-D

Mike1

iTrader: (2)

Any word on how this thing is running? Any times? I'd love a 383 but with a little smaller cam and some AFR 180's is what I'm hoping to do.

swerve-driver

Yes Mike- Funny you should ask- just went to the track yesterday.

To all- if this post looks too long, here is a brief synopsis:

The Gods of Gear Ratios squatted down and took a huge steamy dump on my plans.

edit: 'on my chest' too graphic.

Now then:
Went to the track yesterday and ran twice in 3 hours. It was way crowed at the Grove yesterday.
My first run was a disappointing 14.8 @ 95.5 mph. Serious bog off the line and a full second slower than my Vortec 350 T-5 combo. Terrible!

To further crush my mojo, that was my best. On the second run I shifted into 5th gear instead of 3rd. That didn’t help much!

At that point, I was so disgusted with myself I left the track without picking up my time slip and went home to think things over.

I know the engine runs well. I put a lot of time into tuning and learning about tuning and have had good success on previous builds. I know it pulls like crazy and my late night launches on local backroads left long smokey burnouts. I figured once at the drag strip, the very good traction would get me on my way to fast runs.

And I did get better traction at the dragstrip. Traction so good it would pull the engine RPMs way way down at launch. Any higher RPM launches and I would get wheel spin or wind up breaking stuff.

The answer to my problem? The answer to my problem was found in virtually every one of the 23 posts returned after I typed the words “T56 rear end gear ratio” today.

The answer is: 3.08 rear gear with a T56 (2.66 1st) is way to low (numerically), numb-nutz! (the numb-nutz in question being me, of course.).

My current dilemma is choosing between the 4.10 and 3.73 gear for the rear.

The 3.73 would put me through the traps in 4th at ~110mph (5500RPM)
BUT, cruising in 6th gear at 2000RPM would have me going 80mph. (highway stuff).
Right now I cruise in 5th gear at ~70mph at ~2200RPM (hmmm think there is a problem?)

The 4.10 would put me through the traps in 4th at ~109mph (6000RPM)
Cruising in 6th gear at 2000RPM would have me at 72mph.

I am very tempted to go with the 4.10 on two counts:
1) I do not feel the engine falling off past 5500 RPM (that is where I have been shifting)
2) I would get to use the 6th gear on the highway.
The bad side to this is the constant shifting.
Still thinking this over.

If anyone has any other insights, feel free to provide them.

Gracias-
S-D

DM91RS

steamy dump huh? LOL I like your use of words as I can relate.

I feel that if you can get it to hook and the speed is right at the end of the 1/4......4:10's if that's on the top of your want list.

As far a the cruise I still have the 3:08 with the T5 with the .63 fifth. Cruise for me also is somewhat like you. But with gas like its been I've slowed down to 60-70 mph on the x-way which on the bottom end is around 1500-1600 and it pulls well even with the 305 still in there. You should have no problem with the 383 even with the larger cam. Just don't think you'll outpull anyone without shifting though

The 5th instead of 3rd happens to me too at times. I think that even with the better aftermarket shifters that we have if you don't constantly shift agressively it does not get that pattern burnt into memory so to speak.

Later DM

Mike1

iTrader: (2)

Hey SD, just wondering if you could tell me a litlle about your old 350 combo. Tried to search and I didn't find alot. I think I saw that you ran 13.8 @ 100mph. This was with vortec heads right? What size cam were you running? Was it a 5spd and a 3.08 gear? Just wondering what you had and how it compares to your new setup. I'd like to do a 383 myself, but funds my require a 350.

Thanks.

swerve-driver

DM-
Absolutely right- I do not have much practice on the new shifter, was tense and was probably trying too hard. I actually tried to get it back into third a second time and put it into fifth again. That was the point at which I decided to throw in the towel and go home.

Mike-
The old 350 combo was fairly basic:
Stock 93 caprice 350 bottom end.
Vortec heads and GMPP TBI-Vortec intake.
The cam was a CompCam 08-500-8
It had something like .480I/.488E lift and an LSA of 112*
Pretty easy to work with tuning wise and it did not give problems in terms of SES lights or anything. I retained all emissions equipment. It also gave excellent gas mileage both city and highway (I'm sure I posted actual mpg somewhere18 / 25 mpg rings a bell).

That setup had the stock 5 speed and 3.08 rear.

As far as comparing the 383/M6 to the 350/M5:
Currently, I'd rather have the 350/M5 in the car because it was a full second faster.
I believe that once I decide on and install new gears in the rear, it will be faster than the 350 setup.

Where I can really tell the difference is cruising in 3rd or 4th gear and nailing the throttle. It feels that it pulls harder and longer.

Time will tell- not sure if I can get the rear end gears changed out and get it back up to the track before the snow flies.
S-D

DM91RS

Snow.........what's that?

It's 75 here today. I got hot just changing my oil

I'm glad about how your old 350 ran as I'll have that combo with a larger cam and ported Vortec's if I ever get my you know what together.


DM

swerve-driver

0

swerve-driver

Drawing

DM91RS

LOL.............you must be stuck indoors

swerve-driver

I purchased a disc brake 10-bolt rear from a 91 Z-28 for ~$350. I stripped it, and had all parts on it cleaned and painted.
I purchased 4:10 gears and a Detroit TrueTrac for the rear and went to work.

If anyone has intentions of changing out a ring and pinion for the first time as I did, I would strongly suggest taking the time to remove the rear and getting it set up on some saw horses so you can really work on it. I am sure it can be done in the car, but I would have had a hard time doing that and besides, the rear was already out of the car. I also strongly recommend at least glancing at the Yukon Gear and Axle write up on how to succesfully change out a ring and pinion. I believe I snatched it from Randy's Ring and Pinion website. I must have read it a dozen times. Lot of good info in there in terms of approach, problems and solutions.

Pinion Depth
I used a gear set by Precision Gear, but the idea is still the same. Contrary to all the posts on the boards about being able to get by with the stock pinion shim, I could not. I had to use a thinner pinion shim. In many cases the 0.035" shim is called for, but to achieve the proper pinion depth, I had to use a 0.022" shim. I tried to use the 0.035" shim at first, but the pattern did not lie. Once the the shim was changed to the required 0.022", the pattern was spot on.

Another thing I would strongly recommend doing if re-building a rear is to take the old pinion bearings (if they are in reasonable shape) and hone them out so they can come on and off the pinion shaft without pressing them. Using these to achieve the proper shimming is well worth the effort and saves a lot of jacking around. Then, once you have your shims set, have the new bearings pressed on.

Pinion Bearing Pre-Load
I used a solid spacer and must have tried 20 ( no ****) different shim combinations. Probably 15 right at first, and then another 5 when I finally admitted to myself I had to change the pinion shim thickness. It works well and I achieved an suitable pinion pre-load (20"-lb) with my final shim combo of 0.0320". A key here is to lube the bearings with 90wt oil prior to assembly and tap the nut and face of the pinion prior to measuring rotational resistance. This helps ensure everything is seated prior to measurement.

Backlash
Backlash was measured at 0.009" to 0.010".

Carrier Bearing PreLoad
I used the stock shims on the carrier bearings and the held the True-Trac unit nice and firm. I did not measure the carrier interference. The force required to drive the shims in with the Detroit TrueTrac was about the same as for the stock unit, maybe slightly tighter. I foresee no problems but will report if I have any.

Detroit True-Trac
This thing is a work of art. Beautiful. I will try to destroy it, just to say I did it, but will probably fail. Very simple design that uses planetary helical gears to transfer power to slipping wheels. Very cool, very simple, pretty damn expensive.

Axles and Bearings
Axles are stock and bearings and seals are all new.


Brakes
I wanted to use my Baer Brakes setup (Baer assembly for stock 10-bolt drum brakes conversion). This was not possible. The Baer conversion rotors are 12" diameter and the stock Z-28 rear rotors are something less- like 11-7/8" or something. I wound up using the stock disc brake setup and see very little difference from the conversion unit. The calipers are identical as far as I can tell. I asked around the boards, but got either no response of confused and muddled answers, or my favorite, "could you send me a picture of what you are talking about?". Forget it, I solved the problem, now go back to smoking weed.

I purchased some Earl's ss braided brake lines from EBMiller, but the mounting blocks were really thick and I was not able to find a Banjo Bolt long enough to use them, so I re-used the lines and bolts that came with the Baer kit. I finally found the banjo bolts from Goodridge so I can eventually use the lines I got from Ed. They will go on the stock re-build of the original 3.08.
Hard brake lines are all stainless and brand new.

Drive shaft
I have an Inland Empire aluminum drive shaft that I wanted to use, but to tell you the truth, I was too damn lazy to put it in and re-used my custom made steel unit.

PanHard and Assorted Hardware
I bought a bunch of stuff from Spohn. Adjustable panhard and bolts, TA bolts, LCA Relocation brackets (I had to trim these to accept the stock disc brakes), Control Arm bolts etc. All good stuff and works in conjunction with my previously purchased and installed X-member and TA.

Anywho, finally got the thing set and bolted into the car today. Drove it up and down the street slowly with no problems. Plan to perform the brake in driving this weekend.

I know, you're thinking "S-D, this is a long a tedious post". I can only say that setting up and installing this rear was more tedious.

Next steps involve break in and taking it up to the track if it ever stops raining and I quit going to work 7 days a week.

Cheers-
S-D

DM91RS

Glad to hear that you've got it in.........launchs have got to be better now. I remember your last outing.

swerve-driver

Ahhh, fond memories! I need to get this rear broken in and start learning how to shift the Pro 5.0 shifter and then get it up to the track!

I also scored a pair of 2000 SS 10 spoke rims so I can mount some stickies (relatively sticky) out back. I will have to be careful with that or I will have the car up on jack stands again.

My job keeps me too busy to make a lot of progress on the car anymore.
I have defined work (a job) as "the thing that gets in the way of doing what you really want to do". I need to win the lottery or significantly alter my perception of needs versus wants. And I don't even have kids yet!

Best-
S-D

DM91RS

LOL.............I hear ya