Well ... replaced several vacuum lines so far ... I also went as far as replacing the gasket between the throttle body and the intake manifold ... and THAT WAS NO FUN !!!

Can we say .. gasket molded into manifold.. yes ... I had to very carefully chip it off.. to break it up... took me some time because I didn't want to mess up the intake manifold .. and after that I ran a red scotchbrite pad over the faces.. to remove any remaining traces of gasket

Put a new one in ... good to go .... still got the problem


It's a bit weird ... lot of times the engine starts real bad now .. and loopey idle .. hesitating at low rpm's ... but then throughout the day when it gets warmer .. everything gets filled nicely with fuel.. warmed up... runs real nice.. even at low rpm's


So I'm still tracking it down ... have a feeling it may take a while ... and who knows .. may even turn out to be a problem with the fuel supply .. or one of the sensors

 

get some carb or intake cleaner and just spray around the engine at ramdom points. do u hear a hissin or sucking sound when at idle? maybe u just need a tune up?

 

You may want to play with the IAC per Dimenteds intructions in the above stickys. If you haven't found any vacuum leaks I would suspect a goofed IAC.

 

Yeah hmmm the IAC has been in the back of my head too ... that and the TPS (although considering I don't have that problem all the time, I doubt it's the TPS)


Yup, carb cleaner it will be .. I may throw on my backup air cleaner base ... to see if those sensors work different

 

not trying to step on anyones toes here but i heard carb cleaner was too harsh for the fuel injected cars because of all the sensors involved and was told to use throttle body of fuel inj cleaner.dont know for sure just wanted to throw that out there...as for your vac leak.i had one too and my car would lope real bad and run rough...i did the same thing with all the lines and stuff...come to find out my egr valve was opening prematurely causing the loss in intake vacuum.first i disconnected the vacuum line to the egr valve and plugged the line to be sure that was the problem.then when i discovered that was the prob.(relief at last)I took the egr valve off and blocked it off (we dont have strict emissions laws where i live) and plugged the lines at the tbi.its been running great since then.check the egr valve and the egr solonoid...could be as simple as replacing either one of those...

 

let me know if that works for you...mine is a 92 rs 305/t-5

 

i use it everyday at work, and u aint soakin or runnin the motor on the stuff so it doesnt really hurt it at all

 

i figured its all about the same. i use it because i get it for free from my sister(she works at a parts distributor)nothing hurt yet so as long as its free im going to keep using it

 

Thanks guys ... I'll check it out tomorrow

Another question.. I posted this under a different board ... cooling .. related

Bought a 180 degree thermostat


Also bought a n adjustable fan switch kit ... should I stick with it.. or can I get away with running a wire to a switch inside the car ?

In order to get the 180 thermostat to do any good . .that is

 

i have done all of that twice with the fan and stuff...i personally have a switch wired to a relay to turn my fan on/off when i want...i leave it on when i have air on and turn it off when im driving unless it starts getting over 190.....your 180 stat will open up at 180 and cool engine when fan comes on but unless you have a modified chip your ecm is still looking for 195 to make all the sensors work accuratly to advance timing and air and such......thats high i know but thats what gm built these engines to run at and without a chip your defeating the purpose....been thru that..just use a good stock replacement stat ive had two a 91 rs and my 92 now...this is the truth

 

ok here we go... product description is (looking at it in my hands right now)


ADJUSTABLE
THERMOSTATIC
FAN CONTROL



made by Hayden Automotive

Model is .. 3647

temp range is .. 160-210



oh **** ... never thought of checking this out... now IF.. I should.. or should not keep it ... which is the question .. uhmmm push-in probe.. or .. thread-in probe ??

this one has a push in


wire harness etc


looks like a damn mini comp on it's own.. almost lmao

 

Alright, I took the car to the dealership so they could have a guy run diagnostics on it .... fuel pump relay gave an error code.. however that seems to go away with resetting the ECM ....

Yes I do have a vacuum leak ... the intake manifold gasket needs to be replaced ... they said maybe 100 bucks.. I figure more likely 150.. so off I went to Autozone and picked up a Felpro gasket kit .. so that's going to be done on Saturday... while I'm at it I'll also finally flush the radiator

I did clean the IAC yesterday and oh waow.. it was fouled ... bad

Now.. when I replace the intake manifold gasket... any adivce guys ? What problems to expect etc ?

Replaced gaskets before .. however never an intake one on a domestic V8

Distributor gotta be pulled out ?

 

dizz gotta come out, and make sure the coolant is drained from the manifold, dont what that to land in the lift valley. also when cleaning the gasket stick rags or paper towls in the inkake and coolant ports and cover the lifter valley. and i use to put a thing bead of RTV sealent around the 4 collant passages on the head to hole the gasket and also prevent them from leakin. also make sure u mark the dizzy(the number 1 clyinder, where the rotor is pointed when it is fully seated against the maniold, and also where it is when it is out. that way u dont have a nice back fire thru the intake

 

If you scroll down through the new LT1 cam swap digest I detail proper intake manifold removal/installation.

 

Thanks guys

 

OK ... well I almost took the car in anyway, when the guy gave me an excellent deal.. however.. the guy who he has to repair stuff... well.. one never knows when he'll be around. .so I decided to change the intake manifold gasket myself


PROBLEMS right away .... stupid **** ... not like anything major wrong in a purely manifold technical way .... but .. listen to this .. .the delays have been

1) Radiator drain ... that sucker was S T U C K ... had to jack the car up and work on that one

2) Distributor hold down ... waow ... a 9/16 wrench .. nope.. a 9/16 socket ... not enough room underneath the distributor

So I had to do the monsters garage deal.. and grind down a 9/16 socket to half the length (and this was already a short one)


Now.. gasket is on... late late last night... however .. another problem happened... regarding the upper radiator hose

Ya know where it goes fro mthe intake manifold ... into that little T-shaped housing.. with 3 hoses going into it ? .. Well ... the end that the radiator hose connects to ... broke off

So now I gotta fix that.. before I start reconnecting all other hoses and electrical parts

 

for the dizzy get a distributor wrench. i got mine off ebay for 10$

 

Yeah I may eventually do that .. for now I'll stick to my home improved socket ... lol ... oh and of course I once again... forgot to get some different kind of fuel line ... and fittings.. .to replace the fitted metal ones .... they just irritate the hell out of me lol

Problem is still the part which the radiator hose attaches to

 

Are you talking about the heater control valve? Looks like this:


You can get a replacement heater valve at any auto parts store, they cost about $17. Or, you can just delete it if you want:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=242747

 

Does anyone have any pics showing how all the wires and hoses reattach to the top of the engine ?

(haven't had time to put it all together yet until now, and yes .. tired of driving my buddy's Toyota van for a few days lol)

The Haynes manual doesn't really show everything as far as I'm concerned



I got a few hoses hmmm actually.. mostly on the passenger side of the engine .. and middle... and not 100 percent sure where they go to

 

I believe if you take photo(s) of the various ends people can let you know where their respective homes are.

For future reference; they make disposable manila key tages with a bit of wire on them. They work really well for wrapping around a given connector and marking on it what it is and where it goes. There are a ton of other ways to do it, but identifying the wires and hoses as they come off is the main idea.

S-D

 

Yeah I did that to some hoses but not all of them

I would have remembered if I had put it all together the first night but I ran out of time due to stuck and/or broken parts

 

Any photos or better description will help you get the help you need.

What things on the car need things hooked to them? Back of TBI- any open ports, Intake manifold etc...?

S-D

 

I'll post some pics later on today .. if I have any problems ... took me some time to find my wife's digital camera .. lol