Runnig poor?????
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 11
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From: Bay Area (650)
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: stock 5-speed
Running poor? NEW PROBLEM......
Wsup fellas, I'm a newB to the fourm and to the Camaro world
I recently bought a 1992 Camaro RS TBI 5-speed. The Motor has some miles (140k to be exact) and has not been driven for at least 1 year. At the time it's runnig really poor. Here are the sympyoms to the best of my knowledge. For starters I have done a baisc tune up on it oil/filter, spark plugs/wires, cap/rotar, fuel filter and the fuel pump was repaliced a week before I bought it. Now for the symptoms, shakey at idel, idel surges, missies through ALL gears, rough exleration (still has power though
) oil pressure is at about 30 at idle and shoots up when driving. Sorry if not being specific but that is the best I can explain it. ANY advise will be a huge help thanks alot guys.
) oil pressure is at about 30 at idle and shoots up when driving. Sorry if not being specific but that is the best I can explain it. ANY advise will be a huge help thanks alot guys. Last edited by ReallyFastCar; Aug 11, 2005 at 01:47 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area (650)
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: stock 5-speed
Is it possible to clean the IAC or do I have to buy a new one? I do not know if its throwing any codes (no engine light) but I will go buy a code reader later today.
Would a clogged cat give me these symptoms
Would a clogged cat give me these symptoms
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 1
From: Greenville, SC
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Is it possible to clean the IAC or do I have to buy a new one?
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=227281
I do not know if its throwing any codes (no engine light) but I will go buy a code reader later today.
:From the FAQ:
Q: How can I display the error codes from a Service Engine Light?
A: If your car does not have the 12 pin DLC connector, you may not be able to manually "flash" your trouble codes. The language "may be possible" appears to suggest that this method should work with most, if not all, 12 pin DLC equipped cars.
THE CONNECTOR
-----------------------
| 1 2 3 4 5 6 |
| 7 8 9 10 11 12 |
-----------------------
DISPLAYING THE TROUBLE CODES
Run a wire/hairpin from Pin 6 to Pin 12 with the ignition off (although on later cars it should be from Pin 5 to Pin 6), then turning the ignition to the on position without starting the engine will flash the "Service Engine Soon" light in the following sequence: flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause Following this "12" code repeating three times will come any trouble codes stored, flashing each of them three times. If you do not see the "12" flash three times, your diagnostic circuit is defective.
Some vehicles will display stored trouble codes, then "12" again, followed by energizing "most system controlled relays." The fuel pump relay will not energize. The idle air control valve will fully extend to enable checking minimum idle speed.
A: If your car does not have the 12 pin DLC connector, you may not be able to manually "flash" your trouble codes. The language "may be possible" appears to suggest that this method should work with most, if not all, 12 pin DLC equipped cars.
THE CONNECTOR
-----------------------
| 1 2 3 4 5 6 |
| 7 8 9 10 11 12 |
-----------------------
DISPLAYING THE TROUBLE CODES
Run a wire/hairpin from Pin 6 to Pin 12 with the ignition off (although on later cars it should be from Pin 5 to Pin 6), then turning the ignition to the on position without starting the engine will flash the "Service Engine Soon" light in the following sequence: flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause Following this "12" code repeating three times will come any trouble codes stored, flashing each of them three times. If you do not see the "12" flash three times, your diagnostic circuit is defective.
Some vehicles will display stored trouble codes, then "12" again, followed by energizing "most system controlled relays." The fuel pump relay will not energize. The idle air control valve will fully extend to enable checking minimum idle speed.
How do I check fuel pressure????
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...=fuel+pressure
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From: Hughesville MD
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Dude I have had the similar problems for a long time and it ended up being my Catalytic Converter was so clogged. I pretty much just cut it off and everything runs like it should now. Don't forget man you probably have the original one on there. I was told that they are good for about 100K at most.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 680
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From: Cleveland Ohio
Car: Formula, a big red brick.
Engine: A Ford 351 Windsor... ?
Transmission: Dodge 727
Originally posted by ReallyFastCar
I do not know if its throwing any codes (no engine light) but I will go buy a code reader later today.
I do not know if its throwing any codes (no engine light) but I will go buy a code reader later today.
I'd do the ECM, yesterday. After the ECM is fixed and **IF** the idle is still searching clean the IAC. If the idle is fine, leave it alone, IAC's are "Sensative" and "Emotional" little B1tches
(Okay, I've broken a few IAC's before, I admit.)
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,962
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Its unlikely that the computer went bad, but it is possible. Ive heard that the injector drivers fail after quite some time. From what I hear, through, it causes a no-start condition. The drivers only work under no load.
JMO, but Id be after the ignition system at this point. Sounds like a faulty ignition if its missing alot.
JMO, but Id be after the ignition system at this point. Sounds like a faulty ignition if its missing alot.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 680
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland Ohio
Car: Formula, a big red brick.
Engine: A Ford 351 Windsor... ?
Transmission: Dodge 727
My 7747 did the same thing...
but after a year of sitting who knows what it is. I'm just throwing something cheap/free out there that hasn't been mentioned, that just happened to match the poor running condition I had - with no SES light on top of it.
Non SES light is more likely to be a bad ECM than bad bulb... they aren't exposed to much moisture and don't fail often
but after a year of sitting who knows what it is. I'm just throwing something cheap/free out there that hasn't been mentioned, that just happened to match the poor running condition I had - with no SES light on top of it.
Non SES light is more likely to be a bad ECM than bad bulb... they aren't exposed to much moisture and don't fail often
Last edited by GOY; Aug 8, 2005 at 10:52 PM.
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From: Beech Bluff,TN
Car: 1991 Trans Am Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:08
dude i had pretty similar problems and i have the exact car(mines red...not that it matters)but any way i did the same tune up and still run rough...after alot of weekend trouble shooting i found that the egr valve was not working properly...pull the vacuum line off of it and plug the line and take it down the road if thats the problem check into whats causing the egr problem...you may just be able to replace it if thats the problem...I just blocked mine off and it runs like a champ
let me know if that helps man...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 11
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From: Bay Area (650)
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: stock 5-speed
Well, I Hollowed out the cat (for now, sounds like sh!*
) that wasn't it. I cleaned the IAC HELPED ALOT.... but still runs rough. I think it just needs a really good tune up to fix that problem (I hope) .
But, a new situation has come up
could be the cause of all my problems, runnig rough, ect, ect.
I turn it on, it fires right up. After it warms up, some thing starts KNOCKING
. I push in the Clutch and the knocking goes away SOMETIMES, sometimes it doesn't. The Clutch fells good though no sliping or grinding. ALSO, after I drive it around for a while the OIL PRESSURE drops below 30 psi but does not go the red. It goes up and stays up when driveing. SO I don't know WTF it could be???? Any advise will help.
) that wasn't it. I cleaned the IAC HELPED ALOT.... but still runs rough. I think it just needs a really good tune up to fix that problem (I hope) . But, a new situation has come up
could be the cause of all my problems, runnig rough, ect, ect.I turn it on, it fires right up. After it warms up, some thing starts KNOCKING
. I push in the Clutch and the knocking goes away SOMETIMES, sometimes it doesn't. The Clutch fells good though no sliping or grinding. ALSO, after I drive it around for a while the OIL PRESSURE drops below 30 psi but does not go the red. It goes up and stays up when driveing. SO I don't know WTF it could be???? Any advise will help. the knocking, is it like a physical sounding knock or detonation knock? when mine gets too hot sometimes when my timing is advanced, it will knock like crazy, when its cold it rarely does though... might want to make sure youre running pretty close to stock timing.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 11
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From: Bay Area (650)
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: stock 5-speed
Its more like solid TIC, not a knock. I forgot about the timing
I will check it. I have not messed with the EGR yet I will thanks for reminding me
I'll keep you posted
I will check it. I have not messed with the EGR yet I will thanks for reminding me
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Beech Bluff,TN
Car: 1991 Trans Am Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:08
try running 92 octane gas for a day and see if that helps the tic...or have you checked your oil lately...you may need to pull the valve covers and make sure the lifters are pumping up and oiling...it may not even be the timing...but lets hope that it is the timing...
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