Now that does sound uhmm familiar lol ... like I said.. nada nada crank crank nada nada ... then a burned smell.. and ya go like oopppsss don't wanna blow things up

Exact same thing as when I did mix up the wires on a car once


Alright.. I'll check it out.. thanks

 

Dude so are you thinking that you are 180 out? That is what it sounds like more and more

Bill

 

I was 180 off.. got the car started.. however stilll problems with timing... seems like it wants to go 1500 ... or slightly less... or just die on me


Now... would ... the cooling system being messed up cause any problems what so ever ?

I think the new thermostat may be stuck.. shut


Got it tightened down.. but when starting up... runs at hmm m500 or so and then dies.. gonna go back out right now and advance it slightly

 

Have you checked timing yet?

 

Yes and let me remind ya'll ... I'm not afraid of admitting what a complete idiot I was.


Yes it was 180 off ... got the balancer mark lined up with timing tab at 0 (or roughly 0)


Now here comes the problem .. as I was removing the distributor and put it back in ... the distributor clamp down.. moved.. and happened to NOT go over the distributor .. i.e. .. impossible for one to lock the distributor that way.. roflmao.. wouldn't ya'll say ? Being tired it didn't strike me right away... until when I had set it roughly... and was locking the distributor .. all of a sudden it was like.. uhmmm it's STILL MOVING ?????


Yup... anyway... I didn't finish it tonight ... will do it tomorrow.. since I had to let the engine cool down etc... had to test the thermostat

It works.. NOW.. but I tell ya ... I KNOW it didn't work when it was in the intake manifold ... now how do I know ? Because I was dumb enough to follow the instructions as in the Haynes Manual !!!!!! The ones that say.. put RTV around .. and put the thermostat in ... and yes .. I think the RTV went down into the thermostat... and basically "froze" it shut.



Well ... I sure am learning the hard way .. lmao.. but ... I AM at least.. learning

Tomorrow it'll be done

 

Dude keep us up to date..

Good luck

 

It may leak gas VERY VERY slightly

Here's the deal.. .got the timing set... ran just nice and smooth .. but damn was I low on gas .... I poured some from a bottle before I set the timing.. so ... off to the gas station

Filled up the tank.. and now.. the timing went up to almost 2000 ...


So I guess I gotta retard it a tiny bit lol... with plenty of gas in the tank lol

 

Reset the timing.. this time at idle I had to set the timing quite a bit advanced.. I felt it was TOO advanced.. but ... the car ran fine... almost too low idle ... anyway... took it for a spin .. came back... idle was back up high again


I'll check the timing again .. and may just leave it at 4 advanced ... even if it runs crappy in the beginning

IAC should be fine.. since I did clean it not long ago.. but I guess wouldn't hurt checking it again


But it's almost as if the ECM resets everything after a while.. and yes..

I did unplug the EST
Set the timing
Turned off the car
Plugged the EST back in
Disconnected the battery for a few minutes

 

It seems like you're new at this so could you eloborate on "the timing went to 2000"?

RPM's could go to 2000...but don't see where timing comes into play...with the EST disconnected.

 

RPM at idle is right now at almost 2000.

Yes I did in fact try it once more tonight .. before I had to advance the timing way too much .... but not I had it set at hmmm perhaps 2-4 degrees advanced .... shut the car down... reconnected the EST ... unplugged the battery ... waited for ten minutes... started the car... idle rpm in neutral ... almost 2000


I'll try it again tomorrow after work


Question is .... how can one tell if the EST is faulty ? (I doubt it though) ... or.. if the CTS is faulty (I wonder ... this may be it)




Like I said .. I had it set... at 750-800 ... ran nice... DAMN smooth... took it for a ride... came back to the house... idle was at almost 2000


Please do remember ... I may still have a slight fuel leak ... every now and then(I'll replace the entire TBI once I do the mods to it during the week)

 

Re CTS, you need a meter to check resistance at temp.

http://216.121.161.76/files/CTSMAT.gif

Courtesy of Vader


Also, no need to disconnect battery after setting timing. Just set timing, shut off the car, then reconnect the EST.

SES light should be out..although the code will still be in the ECM, I't won't afftect anything.

 

dude i had a similar problem after flipping my alternator. disconnect your cruise controll, it can pull your throttle open and makes the car act like it has a vacuum leak. if that does it the adjust your cruise looser with the clip and problem is solved

 

Thank you.....

Could it also be O2 sensor???? OR..... CPS????

 

I meant CTS... not CPS .. lol


So the cruise control could affect the idle ... ???? When the car's in Park ???? The throttle doesn't move though

 

Dude I dont' think the cruise could affect it. Maybe your tac just sucks.

 

I suspect O2 sensor myself ... ya know ... for the price that they cost to hell with it ... I'll just get one ... and I may also get a CTS as well... because it may have gotten damaged while I replaced the manifold gasket (besides .. it looks uhmmm like it survived Hiroshima and that's about it lol)

 

I'd opt for a DMM/VMM and test before replace. If you need a quality meter, PM me, I have about a dozen Flukes, postage and a few bucks for my time to take it to the PostOffice, and you're in business.
Eventually, if you don't solve the problem, you'll have to either troubleshoot or pay a Pro...or wait 9 months for "the friend that is gonna help you out next weekend" to look it over.

Heck, even a 10 dollar RadioShack meter is better than nothing.

 

OK, quick question here

O2 sensor replacement ... do it from the hood... by removing all the air tubing

or

under the car ... disconnect the exhaust piping



I am leaning towards the second option, either way I said to hell with it tonight, out of daylight etc .. no room in the garage ... and I just ran out and got some new sparkplugs.. figuring I'll be underneath the car anyway


Do you guys replace it from the top or from the bottom ?

 

Hey brother go for under the car. That is the way that I do it and it is really easy. You can use a big wrench or you can just get a special socket from the autoparts store.

Bill

 

Yup.. big wrench it is lol ... that's why I figured underneath the car... wrench is kinda long lol

 

Cruise can affect idle aneverything, grab the front wire on it and tug its connected directly to the throttle. if its too tight or it sticks or something it will constantly pull open your butterfly and give the impression of a vacuum leak.

 

Oh ok. I did not know that you were refering to the actual cruise cable. Better read a little more next time. LOL!!

 

Gotta check for

1) Vacuum leak

2) Cruise control ... can one get rid of the cruise control all together ? I never ever use that crap lol .. I like to be in full control

3) IAC

4) O2 sensor

 

cruise? it might send up SES demons. otherwise if you plug the remaining vacuume line i think its fine, it was an option after all.

 

 

I set the timing at what looks like 4 advanced .. ran the engine for a long time... ran it nice and warm up to 220 or above

No problem what so ever ... it idled at 750-800 rpm .. nice and smooth .. sprayed water with soap.. nada

I even reconnected the air cleaner ... nothing changed


I turned the engine off ... reconnected the EST... disconnected the negative battery cable for several minutes

Started the engine .. the RPM crawled up a tiny bit... to maybe 1000 ... close to maybe 1100.. I had stepped on the gas before.. and after starting and restarting the engine.. nothing changed


So .. I was curious ... I turned off the engine ... disconnected the EST.. restarted the engine ... now the idle jumped up to 2100

Is this normal ??? Not sure how EST works .. so... *shrugs* anything that can be wrong with it ??

 

Yeah brother you should be able to get rid of the cruise control no problem. Like rockit said just plug the line up that that go to anything cruise related.

 

I'll try to do it tonight before it gets too late


Uhmmm anyone got any links to threads or pics regarding the cruise control thingies ?

 

Started the car.. of course idle was now high... now I opened up the hood.. played around with some vacuum hoses hmmm nothing really... disconnected one of the connectors from the charcoal canister ... shut down the engine.. restarted... wooohoo.... idle was now down at 900 .. .too kthe car for a spin.. idle went back again (oh yeah i had reconnected the thingy)

I tried doing the same thing again.. nothing ... but .... yeah like some of ya'll said.. cruise control... seems really like that's the problem.. coz I may have tugged on the wire at some time too and lowered the idle

 

Don't forget that the stock tachs are really inaccurate. I wouldn't be alarmed at all if your tach read 1100 rpms at an idle.

 

Yeah man about the tachs...

Mine reads like 1000 off at idle and then when running it through the rpm range it is as much as 3500 off. I have gone with a 5" aftermarket tach and am much happier.

 

I llisten to the engine .. and when it runs real smooth and nice while at idle .. that's where I feel it's ok ... but lol... an accelerating rev at idle .. lol.. now that's not ok

Hell .. ya know how tough it is to parallel park it lol... when the rpm's are rising like that lol ... I can't let go off the break pedal at all or I'll slam into a car lol


Looking into the cruise control thingy now ... hmmmm I wish the Haynes manual was more detailed though

 

for the crusie, just unhook the cable and leave the rest alone

 

yea disconnect the vacuum to the cruise and plug it, then pop the clip off the front of the cruise which points towards the back of the motor and just let it loose, it really sounds similar to my cruise problem, id get the idle close and when you hit the throttle it catches and holds the thing open. this would explain the inconsistancy of the problem sometimes it catches sometimes it doesnt. be SURE to plug the vacuum though because that line t's into the MAP sensors line as well and if you start messing with that you'll really think you have issues...

 

I used carb cleaner to listen for vacuum leaks ... because right now I can't get the idle down at all.. from 2000 rpm.. it's running fast

Now .. I don't know about this ok so .... question... if one of the hoses which lead to the heater control valve would be bad ... could that cause a vacuum leak and fast idle ?????

Please bare with me guys, timing and vacuum are not my two best subjects lol


I am getting quite a big sucking sound when I run the engine ... there should be a little bit since one has TBI .. correct.. but.. how much of a sucking sound ?

 

Also.. second time I started the engine... I removed the radiator cap.. to get rid of stuck air ... well.... the coolant started splashing a little bit here and there ... is this normal ?? (And no I didn't have way too much coolant in the overflow)

 

It's running worse today than it was yesterday ... I can't even post what I'm really thinking .. since it would all have to be serisously censored

 

Well, I'm back, but only to help

Forget about the EST or ESC ircuit, has nothing to do with your problem.

Forget aqbout timing, has nothing to do with your problem.

Intermittant vacuum leak *could* cause your problem, but it'd have to be pretty big..carb cleaner shuld have found it.

heater valve, naw...but possibly the vauuum line going to it.

You have a high ide issue..

So either the IAC is allowing all the air through, or is being told to allow all the air through..without a scan tool, or a meter, you'll have to replace parts...cleaning doesn't guaratee operation, only testing does (about 95% of the time). Scantool is needed to eliminate variables...i/e, could be CTS reading at startup is -40*C, so IACopens up to allow air in..so on and so forth...but again, you have to have at least a meter to check sensors with, before you make guesses.

 

The CTS or the IAC ?


Like I said, I have a CTS laying around, didn't replace it yet, let me clean the IAC and see if it does anything. If not I may just go and get me some meters to check things out.

It's REALLY IRRITATING .. now the damn birds are laughing at me lol .. those seagulls took quite a few dumps on my car .. just today !!!

 

OK, regarding multimeter.. what are the procedures and actual readings I'm supposed to get from different sensors ?

For instance ... the IAC ... CTS ..and the TPS .. to start with

Going to get a multimeter tomorrow


I keep wondering though if it still could be cruise control related and I'm simply doing something really wrong

And that hissing sound hmmmm well hmmmm

 

Hissing souns idicates a big vacume leak. I had one between my adapter plate and the TB. The gasket acted like a big turkey call, I couldn't even put my head under the car it was so loud. I never had much luck with carb cleaner, if the leak isn't real big then you may not get enough in there to actually slow the engine down. I have better luck with starter fluid, but be carefull that stuff is very flamable.