ok guys i think i have an extra handy 350 tbi sitting in my garage. I looked it up and its says its an 87- motor then i looked up the heads and they are 350 tbi swirl ports. How much power could this motor have stock? torque and hp. and what would i have to do to slap that biotch on in? not literally
thanx

 

Could have up to like 220 HP, if it was a cop car caprice. Civilian models got the 305 TBI cam and only 180 HP. Trucks came with 180, 200, and 210 HP engines. They all made right at 300 ft/lbs of torque but at different RPMs. The 180 HP engine was used in the heavier GVW trucks and had less cam and compression. The 200 HP model was used in most pickup trucks and SUVs. Vans were typically the 210 HP engines although some were 180 and others 200. The 180 HP engine is a real dog compared to the 210. Go drive a 1 ton truck/van/suburban with the 180 HP 350 and then get into a 3/4 ton with the 210 HP engine. You will find the 30 HP makes a huge difference. Best to pull the suffix code off the block (passenger side, below the head, where the alternator or A/C resides.

Other than that, 350 injectors, 350 knock sensor, caprice 350 ECM or Chip, exhaust from the ports back, open element or L69 dual element. Then tune from there.

 

thanks a lot for that help i do have the code off the front passenger side of the engine now where can i look it up?

 

The only 5.7 TBI engines were in C/K/G trucks and vans, and the optional engine for the 1989-1993 Caprice police package (9C1) and an optional engine in Buick Roadmaster sedans & wagons (1991-1993), Olds Custom Cruiser wagon (1991-1992), and IIRC in the Cad Fleetwood for 1992-1993.

My answer will be different that Fast's. Stock Hp for the cars was always 180 fwhp and 300 fw ftlbs for the non-police engine, and for the police 9C1 models:

190 fwhp (1989-1991),
195 fwhp for 1991, and
205 fwhp for 1992-1993.

Torque was 290 to 300 ftlbs at the flywheel at 2400 to 2800 rpm. The reasons for the differing hp between civilian and police was the cam, exhaust, injectors and fuel (via different EPROM). The power & torque numbers I quote are from Chevrolet's police package literature for the period 1989-1993.

I agree with Fast355's numbers for truck power. The truck engines had flat tappet cams (the cars got rollers), but they also got lower restriction exhausts that didn't have to meet the same fuel economy, emissions and noise specs that the cars did so they had ratings up to 210 fwhp in 1995 (the last year for 5.7 TBI in light trucks).

The head casting number should end in 191 or 193 (if you pull a valve cover). Mild cleanup on the heads would be very helpful before you drop the motor in, and using any non-factory exhaust will help even more. HTH.

 

well how much of a difference would this motor make over my 305? and if i get this motor i plan on cleaning heads maybe a port and polish and then i have corvette pistons lying around thatll have a chance to go to use. Then most likely a L98 cam which is mild yet will produce some more power. Overall is it worth changing the motor? btw i have pulled the cover and its the 193's that r very very clean.

 

How much more power for the 350 than the 305 depends on what vehicle/year the 350 is. Your 305 TBI is factory rated at 170 fwhp @ 4000 rpm and 255 fwftlbs @ 2400 rpm. The 350 TBI engines were already listed in Fast355's and my posts above, and the spread in power runs 180 to 210..... though the torque is always around 300.

Look at the top of the TBI injectors on the 350 and find out what the injector p/n plus what the hard-to-see color-code dot is on each. You can also pull the timing chain cover (carefully though, don't rip the oil pan gasket) --- and look for the p/n stamped into the end of the cam. Post results back here.

P&P is a great idea, the Corvette pistons won't give you any real gain other than bragging, and the cam in the engine might be the L98 cam already (it was used in the 9C1 350).

The bottom line is that the 350 is larger than the 305, so if you have the time and money for the swap, AND you can do some slight mod work to the 350 before the install, then it will give you power & torque gains that would be harder to obtain on the 305. IMO I wouldn't bother doing the swap unless either the 305 is tired, or if you will mod the 350 before the install. Otherwise it doesn't make enough sense to spend the effort & $$.

 

well my 305 runs fine but IM tired of it. I need to feel something more. This motor would be free to me along with the pistons etc etc. On monday ill go and take a look at the number on the cam for you guys helping me out cause the timing cover is already off. would it be possible to keep my tbi and injectors i have now and use them on the 350 and just upgrade the PITA fuel pump?
and ill have plenty of time this winter when i get out of school. Also what difference would I be able to feel on the motor stock?
thanks for all your help.

 

Itll be anti-climactic. The stock cam probably sucks, not to mention there is a strong chance its a flat tappet. Id say new heads and cam would be in order. Id say vortecs would be good if you want to spend less then 1k. If your replacing your intake during the swap, then you only have to factor in heads. As far as the cam, if you want good SOTP feel, then something like a comp cams XE256 or similar would be a good choice. You wont want to go too high as you have 2.73's and a TC stall thats around 1800 behind a 350.

 

thanks for the tips but the fuel pump will have to be changed right? How much will that cam wake the motor up? and what it SOTP?

 

Seat Of The Pants. I think the cam would work well with better heads. You may need better springs as the profile isnt the usual lazy 280-300 degree advertized duration that similar old style grinds have. Its more aggressive. your somwhat limited by the gears and stall, though, but Id say it should be good for 275 HP or so.

And yes, youll need a new pump. Takes like 6-8 hours if you do it the right way by dropping the rear down to remove it. Its possible to do it faster. My rear suspention was completly rusted together so I just bent the filler neck down and got the tank out and in with around 2.5 hours total time, so it can be done quickly and relatively easily, but at your own risk.

 

but can i keep the existing injectors/throttle body unit on my 305 since the 350 doesnt have it anymore? thanks for all the info it has really helped. I will have to touch the heads no matter what because I'd probably change the valve seals on it so i dont get that puff on start up like i do now. sigh. So with just a cam change and fuel pump the car will be a killer wouldnt it?wow im going to try really hard to get this engine this winter. Thanks all

 

ok i just researched the cam that somebody suggested on summit racing and it said its for a big block ford.??? that got me goin heres the link http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=19&y=11
by the way will the cam make the motor run wild as in like choppy or a high idle? thanks once again

 

They have that cam profile for a variety of motors. The chevy one may be a little different. They also have a version with 112 LSA instead of 109 or 110. That cam should idle like stock, but give some added omph with a decent set of heads.

 

but say for some chance i keep the stock heads(193's) how much more power in hp and trq would it gain about?
thanx

 

Well to me, the L05 (which I have planted in my car), runs fairly strong. Even with the low compression pistons it currently came with. 8.25-8.3:1 CR. If you are swapping pistons to flat tops, you are going to be pushing close to 10:1 CR, i believe.
The 193's will do well with a pocket port and make sure to replace the valve seals. (ask me how i know)
Throw in some free-flowing exhaust and you should be close to 260fwhp or more, depending on the port-job.

For all the money that the vortecs with the special intake are going to cost you, just do the 193's up nice.
Oh yeah, I'd definetely recommend re-ringing and new bearings while you are at it. If the 305 is still running, then take your time with it and do everything right. In my case, I had to hurry and transplant the engine because the 305 was toast. So now I am wishing that I had taken the time to do some of those things.

Oh yeah, be sure to remove the plug from the pass head so you can install your fan switch sensor, it's basically inaccessable after the engine is installed (again, ask me how I know....)

 

so would you recommend to me that the swap would definately be worth it? and what did you do to make your motor run correctly in your car?
thanx

 

Is 13.6 @ 101.5 mph good enough? See Lo-tec's thread using a LO5 from a 1990 Cad installed into his 3rdgen Fcar. His car would have been faster with head porting.

Jconrad: any track data on your car?

EDIT: Fast355 got a lot of power from ported 193 casting heads. I think he got over 270 rwhp from a 355 and an LT1 cam. That's well over 300 hp at the flywheel, and it would run faster than 13.6 in a 3rdgen Fcar. Search for his posts.

The bottom line is that you can go much faster but you need to decide what you'll spend to get there. Vortec heads + intake will cost you $700+ new, and maybe $500 used. A used cam is $50. DIY porting the stock heads and stock TBI intake manifold is much cheaper but a lot more work. Fast355 posted what his costs were, and the Vortec costs are similarly documented on TGO. You need to decide how much you want to spend and how fast you really need to go. HTH.

 

ok well tonight about 3 hours ago (racing in mexico of course) i got owned by a 95 or 94 SHO taurus with a y pipe by a ****ing mile. I got owned. Now tell me what do i need to start hauling *** on this kind of ****?
thanx

 

No track data yet. Been wanting to get out there, but haven't replaced the tranny yet. What does everybody recommend as for a good, strong tranny?

 

EDIT: NVM, Misread his setup.

 

If youll be replacing the intake, then the vortecs would only be 500 or so more dollars. Not cheap, but alot less then similar flowing aftermarket heads. The vortecs wont take alot of lift, but they are the best set of stock cast iron heads hands down, right out of the box.

Now is the time to replace the heads before you put the motor in. You could leave the old 193's there, but if youll kick yourself later on if you want to change them out with the engine already in the car.

With those and a mild cam you should be able to get the most out of your current setup. If you want more, then you get into the area of $$$$ since the trans and rear end come into the scope of work.

 

i just want the quickest most affordable setup to be able to actually pass out cars in a race instead of being left at the starting line while they finish. Im sick of this ****. Just i need some help with the choices on what works best with what and so forth. Just looking for quick help to build a mean fighting machine.
thanks

 

Vortecs are the quickest, dirtiest way. 220+ CFM on the intake side. If you want more, especially out of the exhaust, theres room for improvement with porting. There are strings attached since theyre a stock head, so lift is limited, and like alot of the other stock heads, theyre a lighter weight casting. Ive heard (but have not confirmed) that theyre prone to cracking in high stress apps. like trucks and boats, so youd probabably want to keep away from the juice or other power adders if you want to play it safe. With a mild cam, theyre a quick ticket to 300 HP.

There are better heads, cams, etc out there. But, with your budget limitations, those are the only decent heads that you can buy. The other option is to go with a slightly more aggressive cam with the 193s to try to squeeze some power out, but then youd have to address the stock stall and the rear gears. That means even more $$$. I suspect with those gears and stall the cam would do more harm then good. It would be one of those 'no fast till its doing 60' cars. Those 2.73s really suck, especially with an open rear. Either it bogs down, or starts cooking the pass. side tire.

 

o yea with my stock engine with just a catback it already cooks my passenger tire even with sticky *** tires its po in me off.