cam choices with my buildup
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
cam choices with my buildup
Hi guys i have a 1986 lg4 305 with 416 heads i'm getting ready to build up. I plan on buying it the weiand stealth dual plane intake manifold, a demon 525 or 575 carb, a set of headman elite headers (ceramic coated), and i plan to put a mild cam in it, i may decide to port the stock heads but, haven't made up my mind if i want to yet or not....
I'm thinking without a port job i should see around 220hp out of this motor with about 280 trq or so, with i was thinking 250hp with 300 torq. (tell me if you think this is propable).
Btw the motor was free so don't flame me (thanks again brent). It only has 38k miles on it and is in immaculate condition.
Ok as for cam selection i want a mild cam just a bit bigger than stock..... I beleive these were flat tappet cams in these engines (correct me if i'm wrong) so i don't plan to upgrade to a roller design.
Anyways heres a couple cam designs i liked (i'm partial to comp cams and lunati). Tell me what you think and what you would do (remeber this is pretty much a everyday driver so it has to be fully streetable). I plan on having a 2k stall converter with the tranny rebuild btw.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
I'm partial to lowend and midrange power so i don't want to much duration. I'd like the motor to rev to 5k at least and have a good low end as it does now.
Sorry for so much blabbering and so many links but, i could realy use the advice and i wanted to give an idea of the direction the build is going to go, to make cam selection a little easier.
I'm thinking without a port job i should see around 220hp out of this motor with about 280 trq or so, with i was thinking 250hp with 300 torq. (tell me if you think this is propable).
Btw the motor was free so don't flame me (thanks again brent). It only has 38k miles on it and is in immaculate condition.
Ok as for cam selection i want a mild cam just a bit bigger than stock..... I beleive these were flat tappet cams in these engines (correct me if i'm wrong) so i don't plan to upgrade to a roller design.
Anyways heres a couple cam designs i liked (i'm partial to comp cams and lunati). Tell me what you think and what you would do (remeber this is pretty much a everyday driver so it has to be fully streetable). I plan on having a 2k stall converter with the tranny rebuild btw.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
I'm partial to lowend and midrange power so i don't want to much duration. I'd like the motor to rev to 5k at least and have a good low end as it does now.
Sorry for so much blabbering and so many links but, i could realy use the advice and i wanted to give an idea of the direction the build is going to go, to make cam selection a little easier.
Last edited by flaming-ford; Oct 22, 2005 at 08:38 AM.
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From: The nation's capital
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
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I like the VooDoo cam. Good low duration and good lift. I would look into getting your heads worked on to fit some better springs for a bigger lift cam.
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
what do you mean worked on to fit a bigger springs how big of a spring can i put on it ,for a mild lift cams wouldn't a fairly mild spring do the trick for something like i listed above?
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (7)
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
aaah forgot bout that sorry was thinking about the motor that's in it now as opposed to whats going in....... Anyways theres not realy a specific board for a cam selection so it migh as well stay here.
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From: The nation's capital
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
What I was saying was that stock valve springs can handle right at .470 lift when new. Even with the smallest of those cams you're going to being pushing the limit. You might want to add some new springs that can handle .500 lift when you do your port job (although that's a source of debate on here as well).
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iTrader: (7)
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
o i was thinking you were saying i'd need machine work to fit just a mildly stronger spring on it. Makes sense now. Anyways yes i planned to buy new springs with the cam along with new valve stem seals.
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From: Buckhannon, WV
Car: 84' Monte
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: ferd 9" posi 3.50 gears
If you want a slightly larger than stock cam you need to back those numbers down about 5-10 deg. All those cams will pull to 6000 rpm and not really get moving till 2500. You'll definately want the 2000 stall. I had a 218/226 comp 4x4 cam in my 350 and it pulled well and had a nice wide fat power band, but wouldn't get moving till 2500 and didn't pull hard till 3000. With a stock converter it wouldn't even spin the tires from a stop, but it would light them up about 20 feet out of the hole when the power came on. With a 2k stall it was perfect. I would look at their next smaller cam I think it's a 206/214 or somthin like that. All of the cams you listed look to have a lobe sep of 110, in a 305 these things are gonna have a noticable lope.
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From: The nation's capital
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
BMonteSS was right on. When you start to go over 220 for duration it's starts to get up there in the RPM's before it pulls. I'm running a 204/214 in mine and a stock stall. It doesn't quite pull as hard as I would like, but that's my crappy stall. I'm just worried about taking a hit on my gas milage if I just up to a 2000 stall. A lot of people get too big of a cam when choosing one because they tend to focus too much on the max HP and not enough on where you'll be using it. If it's a daily driver, it's a whole different ball game. I also have only 116 LSA, so it idles pretty smooth with a very slight lope that I think I could smooth out even more with some more tuning.
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iTrader: (7)
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
the 2 smaller cams i posted don't sound to bad to me. I don't want to far of a lobe seperation i'd like a very slightly noticeable lope. I'd like to get a lot of lift without to much duration because, as you said i won't feel the 2 bigger 1s come on until the rpms move up a little.
So do you guys think the 1st or last link i posted sound like pretty good choices?
If not throw some links at me for what you would throw in it.
Btw can any1 pnt me in the direction of stock flow #s of a set of 416 heads? I know i've seen it before on here but, not sure where.
So do you guys think the 1st or last link i posted sound like pretty good choices?
If not throw some links at me for what you would throw in it.
Btw can any1 pnt me in the direction of stock flow #s of a set of 416 heads? I know i've seen it before on here but, not sure where.
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (7)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,068
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
the 2 smaller cams i posted don't sound to bad to me. I don't want to far of a lobe seperation i'd like a very slightly noticeable lope. I'd like to get a lot of lift without to much duration because, as you said i won't feel the 2 bigger 1s come on until the rpms move up a little.
So do you guys think the 1st or last link i posted sound like pretty good choices?
If not throw some links at me for what you would throw in it.
Btw can any1 pnt me in the direction of stock flow #s of a set of 416 heads? I know i've seen it before on here but, not sure where.
So do you guys think the 1st or last link i posted sound like pretty good choices?
If not throw some links at me for what you would throw in it.
Btw can any1 pnt me in the direction of stock flow #s of a set of 416 heads? I know i've seen it before on here but, not sure where.
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From: Buckhannon, WV
Car: 84' Monte
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: ferd 9" posi 3.50 gears
Look into the comp extreme energy line, somthing in the 20x intake and 21x exhaust would work well in the rpm band you want to make power.
You have to remember the RPM band that the cam companies quote is for a 350. The cam will act larger in a 305. The rule of thumb is that you subtract 10 deg for every 50 cubes. So you can expect a 208/214 cam to act like the cam in my 350. As you can see thats not what you wanted. Your also not going to get the lope you want out of a cam that small either. You need to decide exactly what your after, with cams you can't have your cake and eat it too.
You have to remember the RPM band that the cam companies quote is for a 350. The cam will act larger in a 305. The rule of thumb is that you subtract 10 deg for every 50 cubes. So you can expect a 208/214 cam to act like the cam in my 350. As you can see thats not what you wanted. Your also not going to get the lope you want out of a cam that small either. You need to decide exactly what your after, with cams you can't have your cake and eat it too.
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
hehe true that's the good thing about websites. I'll make up my mind ahead of time before i can buy it
. I appreciate the help. I think i may just have to call up lunati or comp cams to see what they think i want.
. I appreciate the help. I think i may just have to call up lunati or comp cams to see what they think i want. Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally posted by Gunny Highway
BMonteSS was right on. When you start to go over 220 for duration it's starts to get up there in the RPM's before it pulls. I'm running a 204/214 in mine and a stock stall. It doesn't quite pull as hard as I would like, but that's my crappy stall. I'm just worried about taking a hit on my gas milage if I just up to a 2000 stall. A lot of people get too big of a cam when choosing one because they tend to focus too much on the max HP and not enough on where you'll be using it. If it's a daily driver, it's a whole different ball game. I also have only 116 LSA, so it idles pretty smooth with a very slight lope that I think I could smooth out even more with some more tuning.
BMonteSS was right on. When you start to go over 220 for duration it's starts to get up there in the RPM's before it pulls. I'm running a 204/214 in mine and a stock stall. It doesn't quite pull as hard as I would like, but that's my crappy stall. I'm just worried about taking a hit on my gas milage if I just up to a 2000 stall. A lot of people get too big of a cam when choosing one because they tend to focus too much on the max HP and not enough on where you'll be using it. If it's a daily driver, it's a whole different ball game. I also have only 116 LSA, so it idles pretty smooth with a very slight lope that I think I could smooth out even more with some more tuning.
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,450
Likes: 508
From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally posted by BMmonteSS
You have to remember the RPM band that the cam companies quote is for a 350. The cam will act larger in a 305. The rule of thumb is that you subtract 10 deg for every 50 cubes. So you can expect a 208/214 cam to act like the cam in my 350. As you can see thats not what you wanted. Your also not going to get the lope you want out of a cam that small either. You need to decide exactly what your after, with cams you can't have your cake and eat it too.
You have to remember the RPM band that the cam companies quote is for a 350. The cam will act larger in a 305. The rule of thumb is that you subtract 10 deg for every 50 cubes. So you can expect a 208/214 cam to act like the cam in my 350. As you can see thats not what you wanted. Your also not going to get the lope you want out of a cam that small either. You need to decide exactly what your after, with cams you can't have your cake and eat it too.
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
well i was looking for more cams and i saw this comp cam from the extreme energy line. Looks like my peak power should rise just a little and it should still maintain a lot of it's low end, tell me what you think.
Btw for more lift i can always get 1.6 rockers at a later date so the mild lift is mostly a non issue.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku
Btw for more lift i can always get 1.6 rockers at a later date so the mild lift is mostly a non issue.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku
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From: Buckhannon, WV
Car: 84' Monte
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: ferd 9" posi 3.50 gears
That cam looks decent, it might like a mild 2k stall. I wouldn't worry too much about max lift, it really doesn't matter with your stock heads. What you need to look for is area under the curve. You want a cam that gets the valve open as quick as possible, and closed as quick as possible. This is where you'll find your throttle response and wide power band. The ramp rates are determined by the size of the lifter, bigger is better. This is why there is a big movement to roller cams. A roller cam can open the valve much quicker, you can actually see how squared off the lobe is compared to a flat tappet cam. I like the extreme energy series of cams they use the fastest ramp rates you can run on a SB size lifter. You can actually see that the cam wears the lifter all the way to the edge, where a stock cam only uses the middle 80% of the lifter.
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