Ok guys I need some help here .

First I just installed a K&N Open element air cleaner and I have to say, the first time I touched the throttle I took off. Excellent mod. I do have some questions though. I plugged the vacuum, but I need to know where to put the sensors (3)? It doesn't look like it will fit anywhere.

Also my 'check engine' soon light came on IMMEDIATELY after I turned the engine on for the first time, why is it on?

I also get the light when I am in overdrive and hit 70, it feels like I receive a minor loss of power, though it could be in my head, Can anyone help? I also have some other minor questions, but it is way too late, so if anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it.

James

88 Camaro Convertible SC 305 TBI Auto

 

The check engine light is just coming on because you don't have that sensor connected, once you reconect it, the light will not return.

I have a k&n open air filter, and what I did was drill a hole in the back(towards the firewall) of the air cleaner, place the sensor in there, then just plug it in and your ready to rock. You can use any decent drill to get this accomplished, just make sure you size it correctly.

After that you shouldn't see that light come on anymore(I didn't).

 

Do what Mike said about putting the sensor in. Another thing that you could do is splice a lenght of wire in on that sensor, and run it over towards the front of the car where it will get lots of cold air. That might give you a small boost too.

You are noticing a loss of power. When the check engine light goes on, the engine goes into 'limp mode' it still runs, but it doesn't have the *****...

Have fun,
Mike

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1989 RS.. Newly installed 350,bored out 30 over, Hypereutectic pistons, double roller cam, double roller timing chain, accel wires, blue streak cap and rotor, platinum plugs, chevy caprice 350 chip.

 

Yeah, I have an open K&N, too... I installed the sensor and capped the hose and My service engine soon light still comes on, from time to time. I don't know about that lack of power, though...that's kinda' wierd. It usually comes on when in overdrive, but not every time.... and after a few minutes, it usually goes off.

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Everything I know I learned by messing it up at least once.

 

Thanks for the info.

It seems, from what it sounds like, that I will always have that light?

Whenever I do hit 70 in overdrive it coems on and never goes off, until I turn the engine off and restart it. i was told it could be soemthing to do with vacuum.

Also it seemed I was BURNING through gasoline like there was no tomorrow after I put in the open element. i thought I would be getting a little bit better mileage with the very least getting the same mileage and better horsepower. Once again it was late when I drove it last and I was working on several cars all day (12 hours)

Also I jsut purchased a MSD 6al Ignition. Where do I put it? There is no room. Also any suggestions on wires and coil? cap and rotor?

Thanks guys,

James

 

Check you MAP sensor, and vacuum lines. That was my problem, I had a vacuum leak at the MAP sensor. I could pretty much watch the gas guage move to empty.

 

My check engine light never came on and i have an open element cleaner. Maybe the sensor will fix that.

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91 rs, convertible, K&N, Edelbrock open element cleaner, 3.73, B&M mega-shifter, goodmark cowl-induction hood

 

The service engine soon light should NOT be on just because you switched to an open element air cleaner. You must not have reconnected the intake air temp sensor (IAT) which was inside the stock air cleaner assembly. You must remove it from the stock assembly, mount it either inside the open element or somewhere else, and plug in the connector. The light is on because the connector is not connected to the sensor.

After you fix the sensor, disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few minutes, reconnect it and take a drive! The computer will need to reset itself so you can see the power increase form the new air cleaner setup. Good luck!

 

Ok plugged the sensor back in and you guys are right my light never came on, but as I do not have the tools to cut the open element, the sensor is just laying there. Is that goign to seriously scre* me?
No it's not on heat, and i got it too stick up, but that's it.

Also I remember seeing a lot of your guys's engines and you do not have all of the hoses I do. On the passenger side of the engine there are hoses that plug into the radiator and than run back and forth between the firewall and back. It looks like a big waste of plastic pieces and hoses. I want to keep my heater, but can I cut down on all of this 'wasted' space?

Thanks guys

 

all you need is a drill to put a hole in the base of your k&n then put the sensor in and your set. having it lying there probaly dosen't make much differnce, although in the air cleaner measuring actual intake temp is what the sensor is designed to do.

bad gas mileage is do to you flooring it all the time so you can feel that power and hear that intake roar... ha ha

 

theres 2 sensors right? 1 in the front of the stock assembly and 1 in the back right? IAT and IAC?...do they both need to be relocated inside the new filter base?

 

You only need to connect the one in the rear, the front one is the thermac, you don't need that on an open element


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1992 RS
327, Modded TBI, Rebuilt WC T-5 5-speed, PRO 4 15" rims, Nitto's, 3.73's, SLP 1 5/8" headers, and a few other things.

 

What about the "breather-silencer" thing? (or whatever it's called)the white plastic thing with the mesch stuff in it that is attached to the passenger side valve cover.... Is it ok to use that one or should You go to a chrome-type breather? I get the service engine soon light every now and then and My rear sensor is hooked up right and the front one is capped off with a screw in the tube.

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Everything I know I learned by messing it up at least once.

 

Either an aftermarket of the stock breather will work. both will ventilate while filtering.

I still have my factory breather in, and Ive never had an engine trouble code in my car since I've owned it.

 

If You want to change it to the chrome type, how does the black rubber hose part come out? Does it just pull out? Or do You have to take the valve cover off to get to it? Also...... do You know the size of the hole? I bought one one time and was totally the wrong size... Thanks for all the info! Brant

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Everything I know I learned by messing it up at least once.

 

If You want to change it to the chrome type, how does the black rubber hose part come out? Does it just pull out? Or do You have to take the valve cover off to get to it? Also...... do You know the size of the hole? I bought one one time and was totally the wrong size... Thanks for all the info! Brant

Hey Brant,

The black rubber hose I believe you are referring is the breather tube that plugs into the old filter housing. Just get an edelbrock breather filter. It should plug right in and looks realyl good. It's also suppose to help the cooling process, but doubt it really does much. It just pops right off, but save it, if you don't want it I'll take it as mine is kind of thrashed and I need to keep it for the every two year pain in the A** that the state of California likes to inpose on you. Hope this helps,

James

 

Yeah, that helps a bunch.....even though this wasn't my post.. hehee sorry dude...
anyway, thanks alot for the info!
Brant

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Everything I know I learned by messing it up at least once.

 

Yeah, that helps a bunch.....even though this wasn't my post.. hehee sorry dude...
anyway, thanks alot for the info!
Brant

Hey no problem bro. I was helped, so I was hoping I could help you too. I just couldnt figure out where to put that DARN sensor lol :-)

I am putting new valve covers with the open element breathers on from edelbrock or some other company I figure it will fit my K&N open element pretty well.

Later,

James

 

I'm having the same problems with the SES light. Why doesn't somebody explain the WHOLE PROCESS so we can all be happy?

 

WHOLE PROCESS>>>>>>>(edit if needed)
Pull old "mama's frying pan" off along with the tubular contraption going to the front of the engine bay. Make sure you dis-connect the IAT (intake air temp sensor) Put that sparkling open element on the T.B. base. Test fit with and without the spacer. The spacer is a faded gold looking ring that sits right under "mama's frying pan". It pulls right off>>>>>but put the open element on first w/ the spacer since it's already on. SLOWLY & GENTLY close hood to see if it clears. If it doesnt clear. Take the open element off again and pull the spacer off. This time it should work. As always, check clearances w/ the throttle linkage etc. For the Crank case breather/vent (on YOUR left looking at the motor) just pull the junk off the old frying pan and re-assemble on the tubing and just let it sit there. Re-connect the IAC BEFORE you start the car and just let it lay somewhere secure.
If you guys threw a code and then went back and connected the IAC>>>you fixed the problem, BUT, the computer will recall that code under certain driving conditions. SO>>>>>just reset the ecm and be on your way. NO MORE CODES.
Hope it helps>>>>really nothing to it at all.

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Alex (AKA chevyboy) '91 RS 327 stroker, trans-go shift kit>> manual valve body, cat-delete, MSD (ignition, coil, 2-step, timing retard/ advance),Flowmaster, complete Edelbrock suspension including shocks, struts and lowering springs. CRAGAR drag wheels. Lowered 2.25" in front and 1.5" in rear....Best E/T 12.84 @109 mph...(got spray?)plus more!!

 

You don't even have to drill for the IAT sensor, just go to radio shack and get a 4.7K ohm resistor and plug it in the harness, tricks the ECM into thinking the incoming air is 58 degrees, you get a little more timing. I've had the resistor in for a few years now, NO codes, NO problems.

 

Cool trick man.......thanx for the info. I think if everyone stopped "holding out" on ALL their knowledge>>>>>the 305 TBI cars will be consistent 14 sec cars w/ minimum grease work.
What do you guys think????

 

I think we'd all need new heads and cams

 

ok im finally writing detailed instructions as a write this also.