graebz28

iTrader: (5)

90 bird TBI

Got done with an oil change and was going to check one plug. Pulled the wire off #4, got tied up with other things. I closed the hood and backed out of the garage. It started sputtering a bit, then I found the plugs off. I hooked it back up and the car will not stay running.

I can smell fuel at the exhaust. I see the injectors pulse just a bit at start up, then if the car catches, it pulses a few times then the car will die and immed after the inj give one final squirt. The final squirt looks like a perfect cone, while the others are not as strong.

Pulled a plug and I am getting spark. I have an MSD coil on it and switched it back to the stock one, no difference.

I pulled the codes but nothing there but 1-2.

I am going to check the pick-up coil after doing a few more searches, but if anyone can help, I would be grateful.

Thanks in Advance!

Mike

graebz28

iTrader: (5)

Before I forget, I have been having intermediate starter problems as well. More prone in summer, but I always got by with a little roll and clutch pop that in my mind would move the flywheel just a tad to engage.

I just got done putting in a Summit Protorque starter - after problem originated it appeared that it was getting worse.

After I put the new starter in, I again had the click and no start. I ran a lead from the starter on to the battery and it works every time this way, and over the last 20 times or so at the key.

Could all this be an ignition switch problem? Maybe lack of voltage to the coil?

graebz28

iTrader: (5)

I replaced the ignition switch, took the ign module to Advanced Auto and it checked out ok, and replaced the MAP after seeing a code 33.

I just got the fuel psi kit for a tbi and have absolutely 0 PSI!

I hear the fuel pump, but assume the it must be restricted or shot.

Has anyone had this problem after changing their oil or having just the front of the car on jack stands? Is it possible that I clogged the fp strainer by elevating the front and running the car?

Could it be something other than the pump like the regulator? I just do not want to drop the damn fuel tank if this is not the problem.

w01fm4n

sounds like a fuel filter may be clogged... Let's hope not for your sake... as per locations, i could'nt tell ya, but there should be two... pull the fuel line right after the fuel pump and pull the coil wire, have someone turn it over see how much juice your getting from the pump... should be constant at any rate... if your getting a good run there... try right before the intake... again check the pressure on a crank or 2... or you can dump a little bit of gas into the inlet's and then see how she reacts... just a couple of ideas

graebz28

iTrader: (5)

Forgot to mention I changed the fuel filter.

I would like to pump the gas out of the tank, so I will see how much I am flowing.

Anyone know the best place to get a Walboro Pump, or is there another one that is better?

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Could be poor grounds or power lead from the battery, or the solenoid isnt getting enough juice. Incorrect backlash will also cause the click/no crank symptom. The pinion gets hung up on the ring gear if there is too little backlash and the solenoid cant close and complete the circuit.

graebz28

iTrader: (5)

Been traveling and the car is still not running.

Got the TBI fuel pressure gauge from Autozone. I get zero psi.

Anything else to check before I change the fuel pump.

I'm looking at aftermarket fuel pumps. Some pumps are TPI, TBI or both. Edelbrocks 255lph says TPI only. BBK's says either.

I am planning some mods, but even then do I need 255lph? Should I go with an external inline pump?

RFmaster

'z28

Do not go crazy with fuel pressure with TBI system equipped Formula. Get a 20 PSI in tank fuel pump and your FR will thank you. Most fuel pumps (FP) are push style - they have problems lifting fuel from the gas tank. Also, in tank FP tend to last longer since they are cooled by fuel, although dropping a tank to change FP is my least favorite project.
Since you have near stock engine why do you need 255 lph pump?

//RF

graebz28

iTrader: (5)

Just one of those projects that I do not want to repeat. Did it a couple times on my 89 and not looking forward to it again.

Sorry I did not search out this topic, but i did after my last post. If I ever max out a 190, then I will worry about it.

I just ordered a 190 from XstemEFI as well as an AFPR since I got the pump for only $50. I just hope that this is the problem.

The only thing else it could be is if the FPR is completely open since I have zero psi. I guess the line could actually be clogged as well.

I'll jump the relay with the fuel line in a gas tank to see what my flow looks like.

I also forgot to mention that I did get the car to run using starting fluid.

graebz28

iTrader: (5)

Got the fuel tank down right now. Only took about 2.5 hrs single handed. Looks like the pump may have been fine, just the rubbet hose that connects the pump to hard line was mush and had a split in it.

Anyone who ever has to take the rear end down, I greatly suggest changing the pump out, if not at least that hose!

Turns out that having the plug wire off had nothing to do with this problem

Just have to get a new braided brake line since I forgot to remove it's attachment from the body and snapped it off. Could have been worse.