So what is the generally accepted specs/limits for reasonable tuneabilty for a cam using an EBL? I understand there are differences with roller cams, flat tappet, etc and there isn't a magic number... just trying to get a "general idea".

Would something like this http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku be something that would be a good choice or could I get more aggressive?
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I should note that this is for an my ol' landcruiser so I am more interested in making power in the early part of the curve. I dont have a lot of need over 5500 rpm and that's pushing it.

 

Tuning will be easy with the cam you listed.

Duration at 050 inch Lift: 212 int./218 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Ratio: 0.444 int./0.444 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 114

It will provide a smooth idle along with a broad flat torque curve.

For cam selection general guidelines are:

more lift for more torque
more duration for more RPM (HP)
more LSA for smoother operation, easier tuning, and better mileage

RBob.

 

thanks very much Rbob... I've been doing a ton of searching the last few months and every time someone has a had a question about the EBL you've answered with quick and great info... thanks.

 

Ok, how about pushing the lift a little more and backing off the LSA a bit to 111... this cam?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku

This would be used with a strong LO5 bottom end stock/rebuilt vortec heads. Should I start getting concerned that the vortec heads and that much lift?

 

I would stick with the Comp Cams "computer controlled" roller line for ease of tuning.

 

I believe it is?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...w=32&N=700+115

 

That cam is similar to mine & I have a smooth idle, very similar to stock. Here is what I have: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku


The LSA on that last cam is 111 (which is what I have), not supposed to be TBI friendly. I think with the EBL though, you shouldn't have much trouble tuning with that. I wouldn't put alot of stock into "computer compatable" cams just don't go overboard on the duration and dont get too low of LSA. I would look into a cam that will perform well with what you intend to use it for, based on a carb. The EBL will make the engine happy, providing your cam is not totaly extreme.

I'm very surprised how well my engine idles in open loop. It really pulls at 3000rpm+,the EBL has done a nice job with the VE, based on my WB.

Unless your getting a good deal on the vortec heads, you might want to look into a set of aftermarket early heads (world, dart etc..). You don't have the lift problem and good intakes are a dime a dozen.

I may change out my rockers for 1.6 ratio to get a little more lift out of my cam, but I'm pretty happy where I'm at right now. I just need to get my oil leaks under control!

 

yeah, I have a line on set of rebuilt vortec heads and gmpp tbi intake for $400 which a good deal it seems like. I'd rather go with some dart, world, or something of that nature but that's a hard deal to pass up. If the deal falls through I'll probably be in the market for some different heads. Hope you figure out those leaks soon! My EBL is now on its way.

 

Corey, what do you think of these heads?

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/722396095.html

 

Seems like a decent deal on the vortec heads. I would skip the GMPP intake as it would need to be bored to 2" (I think) and it still will not flow as well as a 2101 performer or better yet a single plane of some sort with an adapter.

The heads in the pic look to be alum, while Iron eagles are Iron here is a new set on Ebay for $400;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dart-...mZ110262723067


A great set of heads in my opinion that will outflow the vortec and accept way more lift. you will need to confirm that angle plug heads will work with your block huggers. I'm not sure how they will locate the plug boots.

I've heard decent things about the procomp aluminum heads at around $650 assembled.

 

my scummit block huggers are trash anyway.... I'll end up getting a new set when I start tearing into this thing. I do some searching on those procomp heads... thanks.

 

One thing you need to keep in mind is the combustion chamber size effecting your compression. I'm not sure where your compression will end up when using the stock bottom end with smaller chambers. maybe someone else can help out with that.

There are alot of good heads out there and if you go aluminum you can slightly raise your compression while staying on 87 octane.

 

I'd like to stay 87 but it isnt the end of the world if I have to use super as I dont drive it much... Just out to the trail and back once or twice a month.

 

Those heads listed would be a bad match for stock bottom end in my opinion. The 72cc chambers will drop compression a lot and the intake runners are way too big, it'd be a dog I think.

Those vortecs would be perfect for you, the heads and intake for 400 is a great deal, get them throw them on and be happy.

 

so I'm my quest for my HP I ran across this dude which seems like a pretty good guy and the price seems right. Says he usually sticks a 272 grind cam in there which I believe is this one ( http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku 0. Whatcha think? Certainly would be nice to yank out my old motor and switch over the junk and slap this back in and start tuning (not to mention a fresh motor)... my ebl should be here this week!!!

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/725482750.html

 

I googled his phone number and found his shop website...

http://larrysenginerebuilding.com/index.php

 

Kind of hard to comment on it with out knowing all of the specs. I would imagine it would have to have some worked heads cause I doubt for that price it could have aftermarket heads. Ask him if he has any running that you could test drive. If it pulls hard with a carb, you should be able to duplicate that with the TBI.

Did you order the board or the complete ECM. It's fun playing with the EBL. Are you planning on a WBo2?

 

I did the whole sha-bang... my soldering skills are less than to be desired as are my patience skills. I initially was not going to do the wbo2 but after reading some posts here it seems like it should be easier to tune with it (and better results)with it.

The heads are worked over,.040 forged pistons, 2.02/1.6, etc. I got the feeling that the owner was an older guy that has been building motors for awhile and not really out to make a million dollars... kinda more like a "professional budget builder". I'm going to head over to his shop in the next couple days and check out the motor.... I'll see if he's got a similar motor in car that he'd be willing to me check out... good idea.

 

The wide band REALLY speeds up the tuning and its nice to have a gauge on the dash that tells the AFR, without having the laptop connected. I bought the LC-1 with the maotes meater and it works great.

Are you sure they are forged pistons? Typically they are not needed in that power range and they run $300+ a set for the cheapest. Be sure to let him know that you want to run 87 octane. See if he has a 1pc rear main block since its a more leak free design & you wont need a new flexplate.

let us know what you find out!

 

yeah, the pistons are forged... sounds like he got them for a good price and decided to use them for this project... didint even think about the flexplate. thanks.

I keep flip floppin on what I'm going to do... heads, rebuild, 383, etc. I think what I really need to do is just buy the next set of heads I find a good price on. I figure I can slap the heads on my bottom end and while the topend is off my block decide how far off a rebuild/383 is. Kinda do it in stages and learn how to tune along the way. I really wanted to wait till after the summer wheeling season to start all this but my DD is down this week and I was painfully reminded what a turd my motor is running the 40s and 4.56s.