Im not sure if this is in the right category but does anybody else have a very hard ga pedal, not sure if rhi just a general third gen problem or a LO3 problem, it makes it hard to drive smoothly?

 

did you remove the tbi at all or remove and reinstall the tbi throttle cable,. if you put the cable on the wrong deal it will be hard. once you put it on the right part it is easy.

throttle cable--top inside
cruise control--top outside
tv cable--bottom outside.

 

if the cable was kinked it would cause this. Did it happen all of the sudden or after working on the car? or did you just recently get the car?

 

I got the car last April and drive it all summer with the stiff pedal, it's a challenge, If I'm at a red light it's impossible to slow ease on the throttle it's that stiff. I have to give it a quick tap to loosen it up then I can ease on it

 

When I first got my car the po had a return spring on the throttle body that made the gas pedal pretty stiff. You should take the air cleaner off and have a look at the throttle body.

 

Mine is kind of stiff too. I just thought it was normal.

 

Mines been somewhat stiff too as long as Ive had my car (about 7 years now I believe). Never really found out what caused it though.

 

see where the throttle cable is attached to the tbi at

 

So i think that i've got the same problem....my pedal sticks closed and it feels like it's stiff. i have replaced my throttle body and it still didn't change anything. i was kind of curious if there was some warping in the intake manifold would the throttle body twist and hold the throttle plates closed or make them stiff? when i tighten down the throttle body they stick worse, but when i leave all of the bolts finger tight it's almost gone. Also something else i was thinking was that because our cars are so old that if the idle screw has been adjusted to bring the throttle down any that there is a groove worn in the throttle body and the throttle plates are sticking at that grove. Is there anyone who can confirm or deny any of what i'm thinking?

 

My gas pedal is kind of sticky too, ive gotten used to it..but a lot people say it could be carbon buildup on the throttle plates

 

WD 40 on throttle cable and oiled up under the dash makes it smoother. Must eliminate that friction with lube!!

Can pull the 3 cables off and see if they have abnormal resistance as well!!

 

Hello, thought i would post in here instead of starting a new thread. I have a 92 rs 305 tbi and i was wondering what would cause the gas pedal to be stiff only while the car is running? it feels nice and smooth with the engine off but after you start the car it stiffens up dramatically. Thanks for the help.

 

As long as your springs are on the butterfly shaft and your accelerator linkage is easy moving, there shouldn't be any reason why it feels any different when running or not

 

Thats what i thought to, It's very strange but i just confirmed it a few mins ago got in the car before starting pushed gas pedal and it felt nice and smooth like it should, started car and it immediately stiffened right up its the most stiff when you first push the pedal down and gets kinda easier the closer you get to the floor but still fairly stiff all the way through but mostly when you first press the pedal its extremely stiff.

 

If the transmission is an auto disconnect the TV cable from the TB. Now start the engine and check the go-pedal effort. Do not drive the car with the TV disconnected, just check the effort.

If no change, or if a stick shift, then likely the throttle shaft and throttle shaft bores are worn.

RBob.

 

Thanks for the reply RBob the car is a t5 manual trans and the only cable to the tb is the throttle. So you suspect that the shaft and bores are worn out? Does that mean i need to find a new tb?

 

The shaft bores can be drilled out and bushed. Doing so usually allows a slightly worn shaft to be used.

You may be able to crutch it by opening the throttle blades a little. This is done via the idle stop screw. Should use a scan tool while doing this and aim for 5 - 10 steps on a warm engine with no other loads (A/C off, fan off, ...).

That can work if the blades shift from the wear and are locking up on the bore wall. Besides, TBI set ups work better with the lower IAC steps at idle.

RBob.

 

Ok, the idle stop screw appears to be blocked by a metal plug is it removable?

 

Yes, it is removable. IIRC, I would use a sharp punch or a finishing nail to put a hole in it, then twist and pry it out.

The idle stop screw is Torx, so I remove it and cut a slot in the head to use a regular screwdriver.

RBob.

 

Ok great, thanks a bunch for your help. Also forgive my ignorance but what kind of scan tool do I need to make the adjustment?

Also, so I just drive a finishing nail anywhere into the plug and pry till it comes out?

 

I also noticed someone had said the cable needs to be connected to the throttle body on the top inside point but my throttle body only has provisions for an outside connection. Don't know if this has anything to do with it or not but thought it was worth mentioning.

 

Something that plugs into the ALDL port so that you can see the commanded IAC steps. WinALDL and a interface cable works. WinALDL is a free PC/Laptop Windows program.

An OBD1 handheld scan tool can also be used.

The plug is thin sheet metal.

RBob.

 

it is a blurry picture. on the top inside is the throttle. the middle outside is cruise. and the bottom is the trans cable. if yours is on top it should be good. unless it is not all the way on top.

 

If you disconnect the throttle cable and remove spring the slop in the shaft can be determined by wiggling the shaft.

any carb shop can handle it and I believe they put in a quality bushing. Or you can mail it out. I think DCTrumpet here offers bushing service?

i forget if original GM TB even has bushing? I put a new TB unit on my car and it was silky smooth. My cable has 124K miles on it and still smooth.