Hey everyone I have a 89 rs just put a crate motor l05 in I want ro xhamge cam why do some cams say up to 1987 and othera say up to 1998 I thought the camshafts will swap as long as they where both flat tappet or both roller

 

The later years that have factory roller cam blocks have a step nose on the cam and a retainer plate holdsthe cam in place. You can use a regular cam in there as long as you get the correct timing chain

 

Hey. I have a 1988 firebird with the 5.0 tbi and I'm not sure what cam to go with. I plan on getting the world parts s/r torquer heads and the edlebrock performer tbi intake manifold. Any ideas on the cam I should get?

 

I would reconsider on the performer intake. Consider looking at the edelbrock 2 barrel intake and use a tbi adapter.

CC cam with at 114 LSA(computter cam) and whatever rpm you would be happy with. I think the 268 is 220/224.

you will need to tune

 

Would that intake be a direct bolt on out well I need to modify? Also where could I get that intake and cam?

 

Check the height on that intake for hood clearance.

Another choice would be the Holley Projection TBI intake.

Possible both need adjustable linkage bracket.

summit on both

 

What about the cam? And how would I go about tuning?

 

Id like a cam with a nice sound and lope and a petty good power gain. What cam should I get for that and how would I tune for it?

 

stickies in DIY prom

 

That 2bbl intake will work if u buy the world heads. 87-up heads have a diffirent bolt pattern. it will work on the centetbolt heads with a little reaming on the two center intakes holes on each side. Also if u buy the tbi intake u need to make sure what bolt pattern it has and if it will bolt up to the heads u want. Some aftermarket intakes have dual pattetn bolt holes that work on both old style and 87-up.

 

Id like a cam with a nice sound and lope and a petty good power gain. What cam should I get for that and how would I tune for it?

 

See DIY-Prom on this board. Especially stickies AND "Free tune" in TBI stickies

216/220 @.05 114 Lsa or 220-224 @.05 Lsa @.05

 

You should check out comp cams Xtreme Energy roller cams for 87-up blocks. I'd go with 264/270 .480/.495 1200-5200 but would do intake and headers and exhaust first. That combo would go well with ur head swap should be able to find any thing u need at Jegs Summit or Northern Auto or straight from Comp cams

 

Do you plan on doing your heads and cam swap with motor in the car or pulling the motor to do it?

 

* Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 287/298
* Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 219/227
* Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .471/.480
* LSA/ICL: 112/108
* Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
* RPM Range: 1800-6000
* Includes: Cam Only
Would this work with the s/r torquer heads and intake mods?

 

I am planning to do this with the motor in the car. I've just never gone as far as doing a cam swap before and having some trouble understanding it. Figured I could find some good advice here.

 

The reason i asked is because i was going to tell u if u where going to to pull the motor your best option would be and i hate to say it im sure u have heard it already but build a 350 and put it in place of the 305( I too once had big dreams of building a bad@$$ 305 but they have been abandoned for 400's and 383's instead) i picked up my 4 bolt 1 piece 350 long block for my 383 build out of a 93 police interceptor for $100. The aftermarket is flooded with parts for them and you can spend the same money or less even and end up with a extra 40-100 hp/ftq. Even if your doin a in car cam and head swap your only trany/converter bolts and motor mount away from pullin the engine then u can do a complete rebuild on the 350 and put a brand new better motor back in.
Sidenote for the price of heads cam and lifter provided your going roller u could buy a wreckred 03-up truck and do a complete ls drivetrain swap and have a 300-350hp baseline to start modding with heads cam intake tune on that your close if not in or beyond the 500hp range. That is honestly the best advice i can give you.

 

I'd honestly much rather do that especially since this is a tbi. But its just not really an option for me right now.

 

Do you have any modification currently?(motor, computer exhaust system, transmission, rear gear ratio, compression ratio) all these things need to be taken into consideration when buying your cam. Are you going to run stall. How streetabile do you want it to be. If your not going to run a stall u want it to start makin power early 1000-1300rpm

 

Its nearly stock. I've done the ignition system and an open element few other things maybe but nothing serious

 

The very first thing i would do then is a nice set of headers & exhaust. You will probally want shorties for ground clearence jegs sells a set of hedman headers 82-92 f body for $181 then have a good 2 1/2"-3" y pipe made. I had on made and ran back over the rear into the existing flowmaster muffler for $150 when i installed my dynatech shorties. Then B&M transpak, shift kit you can install that with tranny still in the car firmer harder more direct shift. You will love first to second mine would break traction and kick out to the right a little even back when it had the 305 and peg leg rear. Then u should consider some gears well get gears at least some 3.73's. After u do these things then do the cam heads and intake manifold at the same time.
P.S while your in there put a nice double roller or gear drive timing set on. Also if later u go with a 283,327,350,355,383,400 all the parts i just listed will bolt up to any of those sbc

 

Trust me you would much rather modify/build a motor that the drive train is ready for, than have a drivetrain that cant handle the motor you built. You tend to brake less stuff that way.lol

 

Lol that sounds alot smarter. I actually looked at that same shift kit. Would I have to hire somebody to do that? Most I've ever done there is change the fluid and screen.

 

Just buy yourself a haynes manual on GM transmission make sure it covers 700R-4 it will cover complete tear down and rebuild i had never down more than filter and fluid before i rebuilt my first tranny with my brothet for his 23 t bucket. You dont have to tear it all the way down for the shift kit just to the valve body. You will b fine u can do anything a pro can with the right tools and enough research. I never let anyone work on my stuff u save money and know the quality of work thats been done when u do the work. Also just cause someone works in the parts/repair and performane industry doesnt mean they know what there doing ask any car guy about there interactions with dumba$s employees at the part stores. Lol

 

Would it be better to do that before or after working on the engine?

 

I would do headers and exhaust make sure your headers have a o2 sensor bung or have exhaust shop put one in. Then do the shift kit perferable sametime as headers. Maybe get a yband and get the motor tuned in good after your done. You will be happy with the results. Make sure you research well before you have someone do your exhaust work find coustomers look at the work this is the only thing i have someone do. Because i dont have a manderal bender when u run 2 1/2"-up pipe clearnce become a issue so they need to know what there doin my guy has 30+ years exp doin it for a living He does really great work. The sheift kit headers and exhaust shoul cost about $350-$400 and can be done over a weekend.

 

Also do you have the borg warner 9 bolt or 10 bolt if so i would swap in a 9 bolt get the 11.5 rotor poerfomance brake option they have aluminun calipers 87- up find one with 3.23 or 3.45 gears there the complete package posi disc brakes and lower gears all in one vs 10 bolt 7.75vs7.5 posi vs single, disc vs drum, c clips vs bolted. I payed. 200 for mine make sure you get the brake portioning vavle with it cause the disc brakes need different pressuer than the drum brakes. The good ones are in iroc-z gta formula f-bodies

 

What do you think about swapping it over to carb??

 

Id very much advise that i switched over to carb it does away with having to flash your computer. You can still manually tune the motor with the carb and timing. Just need a carb a hei distributer and intake manifold and a bracket for your kick down cable and throttle linkage if you use a holley. I unpluged my intank fuel pump and u can do one of two things install a inline pump or block mounted fuel pump. It will also expand your cam options you will no longer need a cam for computer controlled engines. You can use any roller or flat tappet cam now if you switch over.

 

I haven't done it yet. Just kinda weighing my options. But strongly considering swapping it over to carb. Good idea you think?

 

I would some people would disagree but its all about preference. I like it because u simplfy your engine. You dont need a laptop or programer or software to change your air fuel ratio or have to flash the computer. If your good with software and programing and engine tuning and can do it yourself and have a dyno to do it right or data log for months and can really tune your car right fuel injection is awesome otherwise it cost a arm and leg to have a good tune done oppesed to you changing jets, metering blocks etc in the carb and adjusting timining to get the engine dialed in. Wide bands work on carbed engines too just need a o2 bung in the exhaust.

 

For that motor what carb intake and dist would you recommend?

 

To do it on the cheap would be stock aluminum intake had to ream out center hole a little to fit the 87-up heads no big deal, Qjet, and hei you should be able to get all of them for around 100-150 from the yards.
If you want new then go with 600-650cfm holley or equal too $300-$500. Then edel. performer plus or rpm intake $200 make sure you get one for 87 up heads. Then a hei $20-$40 from yards or $70-$100 new for this lookin at anywhere between $500-$800
At that point you should look into a top-end kit comes with cam lifters heads intake all the bolts and gaskets and double roller timing chain maybe usually around $1500-$2000 edelbrocks is suppose to make 410hp on a performer rpm crate engine probally around 350hp to the crank on your motor its a good option if you dont have alot of experience matching up parts to work with each other.

 

So for what I'm wanting to do with my car carb is a good choice?

 

Thats the way i would go it is cheaper and greatly expands your cam choices.

 

Alright man thanks you helped me out alot

 

No problem buddy anytime. If this thread goes dead, just pm me if you have any more questions.

 

Alright I'll do that