Very nice!

So Fast, what injectors/psi rating do you recommend?

 

Those are some BOSS fuel lines!!!! Please tell me where in the hell did you get those??????

 

RFMaster custom made/bent them after we replaced the power steering pump. He does excellent work

 

Oh nice, Did he do some work down there by the ps pump as well? If so show some pics!! Sucks to see a damn starter is holding you back from properly breaking in that motor!!

 

64# @ 13 psi is where I would start. I had an 081 head TBI 305 that made 181 rwhp on a mustang dyno and it ran out of fuel at 5,000 rpm with the 55 lb/hr injectors with the stock regulator maxed at 15 psi. I think you are going to end up making more power.

 

Hey RS, have you decided on what route you are going to take to tune it yet? Your progress is looking great.

 

Update from my ranch.

I have a match set of serviced 55 #/HR injectors. These can be installed in a fuel pod with adjustable FPR and 18 PSI spring to give us some play room. Do not have spring and gaskets to build up the 55's just yet.

I also have set of 64 #/HR injectors installed in a fuel pod with 18 PSI spring and non adjustable FPR. This combo might be too much for L30 at idle. Seems fine on my test mule 350 (aka Turd350).

Do not have any 61 #/HR injectors laying around - these get used up very quickly. May have to do JY run tomorrow.

Have a spare 1228746 ECM - will have to get Moates G2 PCB board. Also, we'll have to bring GQ-4X out of retirement along with some buddy Flash chips.

In complete agreement with Fast355 on fuel lines! No rubber for fuel delivery in the engine bay, but running braided -6 lines takes up too much room and the top of that intake is very busy! We used minimum length of SAE 30R9 fuel injection rated 3/8" and 5/16" hose to interconnect hard line sections. All hardline section ends were beaded. In time need to source correct hose clamps.

PS lines are stock - did not touch them.

Side note, while doing all this plumbing work discovered that Walker products makes fuel inlet and outlet washers. These are white, flat washers that go on the end of the fuel adapter fitting that screws into fuel injector pod. Part numbers are G1416 for inlet and G1417 for outlet. Cost $0.25 each! Found them at a local independent auto parts - marine place.

Plumber's tools of the trade - tube benders



Tube beading is an absolute must - keeps rubber hoses from popping off!



//RF

 

JY update 2014-05-03

The two local JY's have nothing but carcases - leftovers from 50% sale couple of weeks ago! At least it was not too hot early in the morning.

//RF

 

Update from my end.

Pulled the 6 month old AC Delco starter last Thursday. Shipped out on Friday.

Rock auto shipped the new warranty replacement today with an ETA of 5/8. Also ordered a dorman solenoid heat shield from rock auto. Probably won't solve the issue, but can't hurt.

Car has been in the "shop"(garage) looking depressed waiting on the new starter. Miss her.

 

Does rock auto pay the return shipping or is that on you?

 

I paid return @ $12. They covered shipping on the replacement. Miss my car bro! Haha

 

That stinks, that makes the lower price a complete wash if you have to warranty it.

 

True. I didn't plan on having to return it when I bought it. The thing is, Rock is the only place I have seen that has the ACDelco starter. I didn't want the autozone special.

 

I saw where u replied to my threads .... I am using ebl flash with his TT1 wb for tuning .. works quite well .. it still is not completely tuned yet but getting close ... I can send a copy of my bin .. but u would need tuner pro and the ebl xdf files yo view it ... hmu on my thread tomorrow and I'll tell u more about the tune

91' bird 305 TBI T-5, trick flow heads, 4.10 gears, full UMI setup, track times coming soon!

 

PMd

 

About 93.9% of my tune is copied directly.from.the 3001 bin.supplied with the ebl system
Just some tweaking here n there ... do u have a way to tune ? And a knock sensor ? WB O2 ?

91' bird 305 TBI T-5, trick flow heads, 4.10 gears, full UMI setup, track times coming soon!

 

Well RF will be burning the Eproms and I'll be data logging with my cable and laptop. Installed a new LO3 knock sensor when swapping (L30 and LO3 use same part number). No WB o2 yet.

 

Using Eproms and not EEproms? It really didn't take much for Moates to set mine up with a new socket, I think it was worth it and the EEproms are cheap. I'm glad you got your's in first, I have learned a lot from your thread.

 

Yeah EEProms (typo) RF has a spare ECM with a zif socket so we will use that until final tune.

Glad I can help, hopefully you wont have anymore surprises than mine.

Seriously though, PLAN on the motor mounts being a PITA day long project.

 

If I have to tear mine down that far, I will tack weld the nuts in, lol. How far away is your throttle cable bracket from your throttle body? I think I am going to cut the mount off of mine and weld on one so I can locate it where I need it.

 

You will have to lol or you will make the job even longer messing with swivel sockets. There was so many times I caught my self saying "I should just sell this POS" lol

Pretty far back, we used the forward most mounting hole on the bracket, and bolted it to the rearmost intake bolt. Still need to correct that.

 

Could you take a flat strip of steel and put three holes in it, the front one to the intake bolt, the middle one shared by the bracket, flat strip and intake and the rear hole to bolt the strip to the bracket?

 

Would need to see it laid out, but remember clearance is very tough. Problem we had was TV cable adjustment, mine wouldn't take anymore cable in.

 

Crappy paint job but you should get the gist. The top is the cable bracket.

 

Look what just showed up



Think I found the problem

 

hahahahaha

 

Disappointing.

 

Well new starter is in and lived through 4 starts so far. The dorman solenoid heat shield I bought fit nicely. Don't know if it will fix the issue, time will tell.

I did notice that the corner of two teeth on the flexplate were ground down a little. The tooth wasn't a complete loss, and I'm assuming it was the old starter failing to engage. At any rate, she starts.

 

Good to see you back on the road!

 

Pm he or email n I'll send u my bin

91' bird 305 TBI T-5, trick flow heads, 4.10 gears, full UMI setup, track times coming soon!

 

Thanks!

Got it from the EBL thread.



Did some work on the camaro today. Did the first oil change on it! GM recommends first change at 500 so that's what I did. Put Mobil conventional back in it. Will switch to synthetic at 2k oil change.

Also fixed the heater hoses. When I did the complete reroute during the swap I routed them incorrectly to the heater valve. Spent about 30 minutes and ran some new hose to the correct locations and heater works again! Also added a can of R134A to the AC as it was undercharged when I rebuilt it. Pulled 39 degree temps on the highway. 42ish in traffic.

Later on tonight I was driving and heard a rattle, turns out the passenger rear exhaust hanger bolts had worked completely out. I assume from when I did the tank swap a few weeks back. Exhaust was resting against the track bar.

Replaced the bolts and installed lock washers at 9pm. Drove for 30 miles, seems good. Had the car up past the speed limit today without knowing. Car was pulling hard too.

Also blew a radio fuse when I got home. Replaced fuse. Drove for 3 miles. No issues.

Side note: How do you guys feel about the open element vs stock snorkel? I've been running the stock setup since the swap. Figured the cooler air has to be better for power right?


Long day of work. Camaro gets more attention then the wife these days.

Love the sound of starting up!

 

Took her on the 60 mile round trip commute to work today. Gauges all appear to be within range. As soon as I was cruising at 2k RPM, Oil PSI pegged to 60 and stayed there until I got in town.

 

Pic of said gauges

 

RS

This is normal with fresh 10w30 oil. At idle you should see 15 to 25 PSI warm. I see 20 to 30 PSI on my engines, and I run M55HV pumps. Regular M55 will result 15 PSI at idle and about 40PSI cruising pressure. As long as you see 10 PSI per 1000 RPM increase you are fine. Limit is around 65 PSI IRC.

Injectors are going out for service and once return I'll build a pod with 61 lb-HR and 13 PSI spring. That ought to do the trick.

Cleaned garage thoroughly today - still can not locate the extension rod for the puller. Oh well. Tomorrow - of to LBG swap meet early in the morning.
//RF

 

Sounding good man! get a full on exhaust video! I wanted to go vortec on my original swap out of the lo3 but because of funds of being a 17 year old just went with the LO5. 5years later the LO5 is still in great shape but tranny needs work so im pulling the motor with tranny so was thinking of doing a head swap for either casting #113's or vortec's.... Not sure but your build is pushing me towards vortec!!! How are you enjoying it so far?

 

Go vortec man you will definitely pic up some good power vs the LO5 heads. Hell while you are there just pick up a crate vortec motor like myself!

I'm loving the new motor! The difference in power and torque is night and day compared to the LO3. Keep in mind I'm saying this and it is still running the STOCK tune and stock injectors at stock PSI. I CANNOT WAIT until we get it tuned and get some more fuel and SA to unlock the motors full potential. As is though, the L30 blows the L03 out of the water in all RPM ranges.

 

RF I was getting 30 PSI at idle in gear after the commute and about 40 PSI at idle in park, that sound right? Oil pressure is definitely a lot more than the LO3 which would only see about 15 PSI at idle in gear and about 35 at 2K rpm.

That would probably work. We have just been swamped with different repairs and modifications to get back to it. Will take that into consideration though thanks for the idea!

 

I don't recognize this prom scan number so please verify your bcc. This is a snap shot of your average blm. I can make corrections for the lean condition after I get the bcc and will use a newer bcc AXKT.

 

There are several loose ends in RS setup that we have to address first:
1) EGR needs to be disabled in the bin
2) LO3 SA tables are very lazy ( current plan is to use L99 tables) and
3) we'll be transitioning to 61 lb-hr injectors at 13 PSI since L30 is rated around 245HP give or take. 55 lb - Hr injectors are only good enough under 3000 RPM, which is OK for break-in brand new engine.

//RF

 

actually on this motor are casting #187 (305 tbi f body heads) done up quite nice though. Port polished, with 1.94 intake valves. **** if funds will allow it, but i doubt it!! lol my buddy who is a head specialist at a local shop is going to be helping me, allowing me to store my car at his house while doing the tranny work and motor work. Basically my Transmission is leaking from both the front & rear seal. So my buddy was telling me in his personal opinion its easier or the same amount of work as pulling just the transmission then to pull the motor&trans together. So he got me to want to pull the motor out too, so i said heck what can i do to the motor while its out under my budget?? They've got a set of 113 heads at the shop, that they will most likely give me a STEAL deal on, probably something like 2 30 packs and a bottle of Tequila. He will then charge me $100 to clean up & port polish the heads so i said **** that might be a nice little bolt on while the motor is out. I was also probably going to have him bore out my Edelbrock Performer TBI intake out to 2" bores and get a 454 base TBI unit to match it...................................

BUT now you got me thinking..... hmmmmm vortec L31 Heads done up by my buddy, GMPP Vortec Intake bored to 2" bores..... might be a really nice option. **** i can pull some heads from pick n pull for $59.99 a head and get them done up for $150 and be right there! just have to cash out on the intake... LOL!

Yeah im JUST BARELY scratching the surface of tuning with Ebl Flash. Great system, even better customer service. What are you going with? Im hitting some problems though with my fueling system, still on the stock 13psi, but with 61PPH injectors. Still lean as hell! (this motor has a decent pretty moderate-mild cam) Runs WAY better than the Lo3 as well! Even with the dog 187 heads! This guy is a magic maker on heads though.

 

'bird52

305 does not need 454 TB - 42.8mm bores flow enough air. Supplying enough fuel is a different issue!

//RF

 

Really????? its 350 btw bored .060 with quite some work. Obviously i wasnt going to be running 7.4 injectors on the thing LOL (note why i said 454 base, just for the 2" bores) everyone acts like the stock TB is only good enough for 250-275HP(490 cfm?). Rf please learn me up!!!!!

 

Lets get on it RF! haha

Sounds like a good plan. L31 heads will run pretty well especially with a mild cam. When you doing this?

Agreed.



Took the car to work again today. Did well. AC was blowing cold! Felt good since I redid it. Was blowing 37 degrees at the vents. Then it happened. Getting off the freeway in town, compressor seized. Not surprised. It had been making noise and vibration for a long time. I just wanted to get it running and try to limp it. With the AC switch off the pulley spins freely so that will do for now.

Stopped by the Local JY. Found a Camaro and firebird. Looking for some seatbelts, firebird had all four in good condition. Camaro also had the full cluster. May swing by and pic them up soon.

Overall she has been doing well, so I treated her to a wash. RF will be assembling the new injectors soon and on to tuning.
Pictures in the next post

 

 

RS

Grab ECM out of Camaro (TBI) - that's your back-up or it will be converted to EPROM for tuning.

//RF

 

Didn't see ECM in the car. Saw the connectors but no ECM unless it was somewhere else.

 

The numbers quoted are correct. You can get up to about 550 cfm @ 3.0 in/hg pressure drop IF you have the ridges ground down and radiused smoothly, have an injector pod spacer and thin the throttle shaft. That is good for about 325 HP. My 423 HP 305 monster needed and ran a 454 TBI.

 

Fast355

The reason why I do not advise BBC is rather practical - most stock BBC TB's do not have TV throttle linkage arm / post. I had to rework several BBC TB by removing throttle bracket and spot welding SBC throttle bracket to have 700R4 TV cable support. Was not too difficult, but it was a PITA never the less. RV Morse offers reworked SBC TB's bored out to 46.5mm without BBC TB issues. http://www.rvmorsemachine.com/product.htm

As for HP number it is a calculated value: P(hp) = (Torque * RPM)/5252. For a street driven car, with occasional 1/4 (or 1/8mile) track outings torque will win races (bracket racing), while horsepower sells cars (or bragging rights). From my younger days racing at Fremont (Baylands Raceway) 1/4 mile it was simple as that. An old gaser racer (he is long gone to the race track in the sky) once told me that the 1st 60' of a drag race are the most critical. The 1/10 of a second can translate to about .3 at the end of the quarter mile if you have good traction. For a street car, such as your typical 3rd gen with 3.08 or 2.73 rear end, engine is just spooling past 3500 RPM. The key is putting the engine torque down to the ground and avoiding tire spin.

So now you know where I stand - torque.

//RF

 

Probably within a couple months, and 113's just got scratched off the list, non standard EGR setup with those heads and im in cali so its bad. Looks like i might joining the vortec family! What gears are you running?



So looks like i should go with a done up Sbc tb

Yeah that was my main concern was the throttle linkage, and that does not sound fun. Looks like i'll be going with a RV Morse Throttle body. Quick question, am i buying a redone (cleaned up, new parts and bored to 46.5mm) or am i sending mine in and they do it to mine? Website doesnt say

 

'bird52

RV can sell you a TB, exchange or re-do yours. He has a good stock of TB's on hand. Just give him a call and talk to him.

//RF