I have just finished installing the LT1 camshaft, and after re-installing everything, I cannot start the car. To be more specific, the starter turns the engine over, but there is no spark coming from the coil. Is there any way to check the coil to see if it is functioning properly? I believe I have all of the sensors installed properly.

Thanks a lot,
Clint

 

Are all the wires correctly hooked up to the coil including the plug with the white wire and thick pink wire? White being for the tach and pink being power from the ignition switch that's hot in run and start. What about the wires that goes from the coil to the distributor? There should be two plugs plugged into the the distributor and two on the coil. do you know for sure there's no spark. A sure fire way is to take a plug out and set it on something with a good ground on the engine and get someone to crank the engine for you. If a spark jumps across the plug I'd double check your timing. You can pull the drivers side valve conver and watch the valves open and close on cylinder #1 (front right of engine) as you turn the engine over by hand. When it's at TDC on the compression stroke stop and adjust the distributor so that the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug. You can make it more acurate later with a timing light. This will get it to fire if you have spark and your injectors are injecting. By the way, are your injectors injecting? I'm probably telling you stuff you already know but I just want to be sure.

ryan

 

Take off the distributor cap and see if the rotor is spinning. If not then the cam might not have been installed right. I think if you bought a supercharger it might help it turn over. LOL Just giving you incentive.

 

Well taking both of your advice, It turned out to be the way I had wired the coil. Thank you very much. I had to play with the timing to get it to start, but I will be tuning that Wensday. Even with rough timing and fuel pressure settings, It pulls a lot harder, and all the way to the shift points. This should turn out to be a really good mod.

Thanks again,
Clint

 

just looking at your signiture, hwo did you get true dual???

 

VA law says that you cannot change the exhaust configuration from OEM, for instance you cannot put 2 cats on a one cat car. I took off my inspection sticker and my tags, then had AAA tow me up to the muffler shop, told them that my car was going to be a SCCA car, where maximum pipe size was 2.5" and true duals were allowed. Cats and mufflers were required as well. They bent the pipe and hooked everything up for me, but I have a problem to fix. It goes Headers to cats, cats to X-pipe under torque arm, x-pipe into glasspack mufflers, and goes underneath the rear anti sway bar, on both sides of the middle bend, then up and out. I do not scrape anywhere except for the front out of the header, but it is rare. I have a solution for that, I just need to get the header a little bit towards the rear of the car, and re-do a section of pipe from that header to the cat, and all will be well.
Keep in mind this exhaust was also worked around subframe connectors. I took some pics, I need to get the pics developed.

P.S. Your car looks awesome.

 

Why thank you. Oh, that seems a bit on the unecessary side for me. Well, ill just go with the 3 inch and slp headers. I wish i could hear how yours sounds, must be kickin.

 

SLP Headers + a 3" exhaust like Borla, or Flowmaster will be plenty. Borla is a great catback, but expensive. I spent 131 for the headers, 100 for the cats and 32 dollars for both mufflers. Installation was 250 dollars at the muffler shop, plus 20 for towing. The exhaust sounds great to me. I went from stock manifolds to no cat, to a 2 1/4" flowmaster 80 series. It was pretty loud, but sounded good. When the new exhaust was put on it was very quiet and smooth at idle in comparison, but it makes quite a lovely noise at 5k rpm . The fiberglass in the glasspacks has burned away, but the idle is still quieter than the flowmaster setup I had. And the power difference is enormous.

(to me, atleast)

 

Sorry it took so long to get around to, but here they are.

Notice it is scraping on the right side. I have a fix for that, will take more pics when it is fixed. Does not scrape often. Also note that the exhaust has to travel around the subframe connectors I made beforehand.

 

sweet, daddy likes ... lol
I want it .... hehe

 

Thanks for the compliment. I wish the pic came out better, but I had to reduce the resolution to get it on here. Here is a pic from the back. Can see the better versions @
http://oursportscars.homestead.com/fbpics.html

 

they look more like cherry bombs there, btw .. are those still in existance??
~Tim

 

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...br=76&lastcat=

That is the site for the mufflers. They were designed by Thrush, but Dynomax bought them. I do not know if these are cherry bombs. I just know they are thrush glasspacks. They may very well be. 32 bucks for two good flowing mufflers is hard to beat.