Kyler_89RS

Hey everyone. I’ve had this problem since I got my camaro about 2 years ago. The problem is that I have to use the accelerator in order to start the engine. I’ve looked and looked for a solution but nothing really answers my question. Sometimes the car also stalls when I start driving shortly after starting the car. So if anyone has any ideas, please help me out!!

305 tbi bone stock
89 RS

I hope this is the right forum for this kinda thing. Srry I’m still new to this forum lol.

Kingtal0n

This is vague and may be difficult without more information.

Are you familiar with diagnostic procedures? (am guessing not)

The "list" of what you should be doing before trying to diagnose pretty much any problem,
1. compression test, Use two different compression testers (or a known good unit) and write the numbers down to the decimal place.
Repeat the test warm/cold if possible.
If the test comes back weird, use a different tester. they are known to go 'bad' and give low readings.

2. timing test. Follow the factory service manual procedure (GET an FSM "factory service manual") or somebody's outlined procedure.
I don't know that engine well enough but usually its something like "disconnect tps and check cylinder #1 fully warmed up at lowest idle"

3. Pressure test. This is more for forced induction engines and you might not need this one. But it would help you find leaks in the intake/head/crankcase when done right.
Its two separate tests btw: One pressure test for the intake/head performed at high pressure (2-10psi for NA engines). And one pressure test is done for the crankcase at LOW pressure (1~ psi )


Those are the 3 basic tests, I do them to every engine before tuning an engine. Its a general guideline for engine health. Compression, timing, pressure.

Next you can do basic maintenance and inspections.
Oil change, air filter, spark plugs, wires, rotor/cap/ign components.
FUEL FILTER
PCV valve, pcv hoses, entire pcv system.
Remove all ducting, plastic pipes, accessible hoses (anything easy to remove especially PCV ducts/lines and air intake ducts) and WASH THEM OUT with degreaser/water and let it all dry nice.
Replace anything questionable obviously.
then, Wash the engine, Cover anything sensitive to water (ignition coil, relays, maf sensor, general sensors, wiring, fuse boxes, air filter) and wash the entire engine bay. Most of the stuff in the engine bay can get wet (imagine going through a puddle- yeah the water can splash up there pretty good sometimes). I use simple green and/or degreaser, glass cleaner, armor-all, WD-40 to clean the engine (and bay) up.

With the engine clean and tested (no leaks) and all the hoses clean and fresh tune up. You are left with only a few basic potential issues for "poor starting"/stalling/poor performance.
If one of the sensors is giving trouble there should be a check engine light also.

Next if there is still an issue. It should be one of the basic components:
-clogged injectors (try injector cleaner, or replace them if they are cheap)
-bad sensors (try a replacement MAP or MAF sensor depending which your car has (probably MAP) try a new CTS (coolant temp sensor) IAT (intake air temp sensor) etc...
-fuel pump going bad (most people would rent a fuel pressure gauge and tape it to their window for this test)
-bad TPS (everyone blames this guy but its rarely an issue... still worth checking)
-could be a stuck open EGR valve or similar emissions related component going bad, pressure test may reveal...
-insert the ones I forgot


Where to go from here:
This list is provided but not necessarily in this order. You should probably start with the cheapest things first: some fuel injector cleaner, a new air filter, fuel filter, and basic tune up stuff, and a compression test.
make sure the check engine light is working (it should 'warm up' when you turn the key before starting)

Also get some pictures of the engine in here so everyone can see whats going on, it might halp

Kyler_89RS

Thank you for the reply! I was going to check the timing, but I didnt think it would really help that much with the problem. But I’ll give it a shot. I actually just ordered a new fuel filter yesterday, so hopefully that fixes some problems. Anyways, thank you for this so much. This is exactly what I needed. Much appreciated!

Kingtal0n

no problem, I like to see people enjoy driving,

some example materials to supplement which are generic


Before and after engine washing:



A clean engine allows us to see where oil develops and how fast it is appearing.

Pressure testing intake pathway, youtube video

Quick PCV sketch for performance engines

Same thing but from the side like a 4-cylinder:



A fundamental understanding of crankcase and PCV, e.g. development of external signs of oil seepage flow and piston ring/cc analysis behavior in relation to crankcase pressure, is essential foundation for high performance

Kyler_89RS

About how long does a good deep cleaning for an engine take? Also, does an engine cleaning help with cooling at all?

Kingtal0n

Engine cleaning is a daily thing, like any maintenance routine. Leafs are always falling, air is constantly circulating and bolts/hoses always need a sheen of oil. Its a lot less work to constantly maintain or upkeep the engine cleanliness this way. 10 minutes per day or something. So to answer your question one way, its about 10-20 minutes of cleaning for every 2-3 days the car exists. Or something like that. As the number of days approaches infinity there is probably some finite number of minutes required to totally clean the car regardless of how filthy it gets.


Many never clean so there can be years of buildup, grime, especially underside. So if the car is 10 years old and never been cleaned... it could take days to fully clean. It depends on how well equipped you are for this sort of thing. I know a place where they yank the engine, pressure wash the engine bay, scrub down/tape up, paint, and have the motor back in the next day. So you can really do a LOT in a very short time if you have things like forklifts, pressure washers, employees,

sorry but the question was incredibly open ended and depends not only on equipment at hand but experience, and focus. The more familiar your 'hands' are with the (engine or whatever) the better you will be able to clean and maintain it.

Cooling wise Debris and dirt always get in the way of radiator and condenser type of components. So of course if you clean the debris from the heat exchangers that would be good. A layer of generic dust and dirt on the engine is going to form as soon as you start driving (unless the engine bay has been purposefully sealed with air filters etc...) and has little relation to cooling though.

Schurkey

1. Does the fuel pump prime for two seconds when the key is turned from "Off" to "Run"? If not, fix the pump wiring including the fuel pump relay.

2. What is the fuel pressure? TBI specs are 8--13 psi, the higher end of the scale is preferred.

3. When were the "tune-up" items last inspected/replaced? Test, inspect, replace distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs, air and fuel filters, starter amperage draw, battery condition, battery cable condition, spark intensity test, etc.

4. Use a scan tool to inspect the data stream--coolant temperature sensor, cranking RPM, TPS, IAC, and the rest of the sensors and actuators.