1st winaldl run - lots o' knock
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
1st winaldl run - lots o' knock
I finally got around to soldering together a cable last night and let the car idle and revved it a couple times. Very cool new tool!
Most everything looked pretty good (BLM always 128, good steady O2 voltage, no sensors seemed out of line). The "rich" flag kept popping on then off every once in a while, but I'm guessing that's just noise (from my cable?) and not real? On the other hand, I had occasional knocks showing up and, if I revved the engine, the knock counts would go through the roof!
How do I know whether or not this is a bad knock sensor / sensor picking up noise vs. a real problem I ought to look into?
Most everything looked pretty good (BLM always 128, good steady O2 voltage, no sensors seemed out of line). The "rich" flag kept popping on then off every once in a while, but I'm guessing that's just noise (from my cable?) and not real? On the other hand, I had occasional knocks showing up and, if I revved the engine, the knock counts would go through the roof!
How do I know whether or not this is a bad knock sensor / sensor picking up noise vs. a real problem I ought to look into?
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Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
The log, if you want it
Oh yeah - here is the log file, in case you want to see it...
btw, the 32 (EGR) code is set b/c my EGR is not working; it comes on while crusing warm / in closed loop. The code 44 is old, from when I was driving around measuring the O2 sensor voltage - I think the connector wasn't perfectly tight b/c it threw 44s twice, until I took my wire out of it.
If I'm missing something obvious, I apologize; it was late...
btw, the 32 (EGR) code is set b/c my EGR is not working; it comes on while crusing warm / in closed loop. The code 44 is old, from when I was driving around measuring the O2 sensor voltage - I think the connector wasn't perfectly tight b/c it threw 44s twice, until I took my wire out of it.
If I'm missing something obvious, I apologize; it was late...
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Joined: Oct 1999
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Probably running too much timing and the non-functioning EGR will cause timing issues and knock problems. Although it shouldn't at idle. It doesn't look aweful but you're running on the warm side ~205*F, everything else looks normal except for the knock. You might want to actually drive around and save the "spark count table" and post that up. Drive around for a while so you get lots of input and save the BLM table and post that also.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah - dang EGR. It's hot b/c (1) I left the car idling for a bit while I oohed and ahhed at how cool it was to see all this data, real-time, and (2) I have a stock-replacement fan sw. Something just came to mind - this was my first low (87) octane tank of gas in a while. I figured that I'm not so far from stock that I couldn't run 87 anymore and wanted to see if there was a mileage diff. Do you think 87 is too low with my mods?
I wanted to drive around with it today, but couldn't. I'll post a spark count table as soon as I get time. Thanks for taking a look, Jon.
I wanted to drive around with it today, but couldn't. I'll post a spark count table as soon as I get time. Thanks for taking a look, Jon.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
OK, here is the log file...
I drove around for 5 or so minutes, quick highway run. What is good/normal for BLM variation (ie never anything but 128 or fluctuation +/- 1 or 2 sometimes)? Without revving the engine, the knocks appeared steadily rising througout, independent of throttle/rpms...?
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