OK, '91 RS 305 TBI it was running fine, died and wouldn't restart. It cranks nice and hard. Filled up two days ago, replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires a month ago. So, at that point, I figured it's a) fuel pump b) coil c) computer. Since then I've done some reading here and added that it might be the ignition module. Now, last night I yanked a plug and grounded it while cranking and no spark. However, even after cranking for a good solid minute, I really can't smell any gas in the TB. So, tonight, I'll try and check the codes, but will they really help here? How do you check if the computer is dead versus the ignition module or the coil? One thread said make sure 12v on the pink/red wire from the coil to the distributer etc. I've got 159K miles and as far as I know the coil and the ignition module are stock. Help me out here folks, I really don't want to go and buy a bunch of electrical parts that I can't return if they're not the problem.

Thanks,
Dan

 

If you don't have any spark and you don't smell any gas, I'd check the fuseable link before you buy anything. It's the wire coming off of the positive battery terminal. If it's fried it will cut off the power to the fuel pump and you won't get any gas. Try that first, if you are able to get error codes, post them on the board, they've given me a ton of help.

 

Hm; if it was the ignition module, the classic problem is the car runs great when cold, when the car (and module) heat up, the module stops working and the car stalls, But, when the car cools again, the module's fine.

You've got the remote HEI igniton setup, right? If so, this might help you. It was typed for a V6 remote HEI, but we use the same spark module as you V8 remote HEI guys, so it should be the same chart. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...=code+42+chart

 

There's some good troubleshooting advice. More fun things I didn't think to check - I didn't even know about the fusible link. At work now, gonna be a camaro workin man tonight.

Dan

 

i had the same thing happen to my car, and it was my coil... if you just did all of your ignition parts over and left the coil it may have over-loaded or is just old and used. . . coils aren't that expensive even for really good ones.

 

Well, Wednesday was hot and a little rainy. Last night, I checked the codes, there were no codes. I turned the key and it started right up. I ran it for a while and it ran fine. So, I briefed everyone that I was going to drive home and to come looking if I was more than 30 minutes. I got 1/2 of a mile and same thing. It just died. So, this weekend I'll start checking things out, but I'm really leaning toward the pickup coil/external coil/ignition module as being the problem, and I may just replace all three because there doesn't seem to be an easy way to test them.

Dan

 

Sounds just like the same sh*t that's been happening to me for over 2 years.

Listen to me well here, take the HEI Ignition module over to Autozone and have the guy behind the counter put it on the tester and test it about 100 times. That way you'll get a real good idea of whether it's failing or not.

I think that your's will pass given the symptoms of it just shutting off on you in the middle of driving.

Next test the ignition coil with a DVOM and compare to specs. Next, test the distributor pickup coil. It should be between 500-1,500 Ohms.

I think that your pickup coil is dead.

I would almost bet on it.

Brian P
89 IROC-Z 355

 

Any Luck yet??

 

Well, on Saturday I went to go do some troubleshooting, and again it started and ran fine. I drove it up and down the street for 20 minutes, I got the coolant temp up to about 220 and I still couldn't get it to die. It's reeeeaaall hard to troubleshoot an intermittant problem. I may just replace parts starting with the pickup coil. Really, how much can all three cost compared to the aggravation of an intermittant problem and the uncertainty of not knowing when it's going to die again. The other option is to grab another HEI from the junkyard and keep it and the tools handy for the next time. Of course, there's no way of knowing if it's working or not.

Dan

 

I'm having the same problem currently and have priced everything out and plan on doing the job tonight. The coil is about $17 and the module is also $17 at AutoZone. Now that is for the Wells brand, if you want Accel add about $40 to each. It won't take long to change either, I changed the coil last night within 15 minutes, but the module should take me about 1/2 hour to an hour because I have to loosen the distributor to get all the screws loose, then time it again to be certain I'm dead nuts on. Hope this helps, good luck...

 

take off the air cleaner and have someone crank the car over...if you getting gas its the coil. if not check the ignition module.

you dont have to loosen the dist. to put the module in...hell i didnt even disconnect the plug wires...just use a small screw driver and take the 2 bolts loose and change it...its simple.

 

Well, I stopped by Pep Boys and grabbed a new pickup coil going for the low buck fix. I yanked the distributer and started taking the darned thing apart. Well, got the gear off and I started twisting the shaft out and it just stuck. Well, being the enterprising soul that I am, I proceded to grab a big O' pipe wrench, wrapped a rag around it in order to get a better grip without mangling the star mag position sensor thing. Well, that's great, except it didn't help. So, I thought to myself since the Chilton's doesn't say anything, maybe I'm supposed to take that star thing off, I can see the grooves where it's seated. I know, you can all see it coming like a bad train wreck. So, a few well placed hammer blows later, and I'll be making a trip to the junkyard for a new HEI distributer. Once I got a look at the pickup coil, the isulation was broken on both wires, and the varnish was coming off of the windings in a bad way. So, I'm predicting that it was the pickup coil causing my problem. Once I get a new distributer, I'll put the new pickup coil on since I got it and it was cheap. $13 Bendix. Oh well, more stupid gearhead tricks.

Dan

 

once the gear comes off it should be easy to take apart unless somethings bad wrong

 

Hehe, brings back fond memories of days long ago. Every one
does things you know you shouldn't but you just can't help
yourself. It's like there's a voice inside your head saying do it,
go on, go ahead, if you mess it up a little you can fix it later.

Then you have to go out and buy a new one.

 

Hate to be off topic but that is like watching my uncle change the jets in his Holly carb and stabbing himelf in the hand everytime.
Or when I set things on the cowl and they fall through the hood latch hole.

 

The pickup coil in the stock remote coil HEI distributor is a true b*tch. That's why I LOVE the MSD pro-billet distributor. In order to change my pickup coil I loosen 2 small allen head screws, disconnect the pickup leads from the ignition module and reinstall.

No pulling of the dizzy, no roll pin to punch out, a big ol' piece of chocolate cake baby.

Brian P
89 IROC-Z 355

 

Well, I went to the U-Pull It place. It's all trucks and vans. I immediately noticed that the part with the magnets on the rotating shaft is different on the large HEI versus the smaller one, and 6 cylinder HEIs have 6 points on them, DOH! So, it's mostly older stuff and I was starting to despair of finding what I needed and the only other one I found, the guy wanted $50 out of an '89 truck. Is he insane? A new one from the part store is $99. Anyway, I found one and spent 30 minutes trying to get it off with a little cresent wrench (car's down, I'm on motorcycle). That wasn't happening, so I started wandering around looking for one that was more accessible, and found a small HEI just sitting on the seat in a van. Very Cool. Got home, rebuilt the distributer, installed the new pickup coil, stabbed it back in, and ..... NOTHING. No spark. Did some troubleshooting following TomP's troubleshooting chart. I get to the part about checking for voltage at the white wire from the gray connector at the coil. I got over 10v which seems to point to one of the other electrical parts being bad. So, no spark at the coil either. Tonight I'm going to grab a new coil and ignition module at Pep Boys and trying the coil first see if I can't get this beasty running.

Dan

 

Man the more I read into your posts, it sounds like it is a bad/dying ECM. Got a test light or a DVOM?

With the key in the "on" position check the 4 pin connector that plugs into the module for power. If you aren't getting power from there your ECM is suspect.

Brian P
89 IROC-Z 355

 

Last night I picked up a new coil and a new ignition module. Swapped out the coil and still no spark. Swapped in the ignition module and it started right up. Swapped the old coil back in and it's still running fine. In fact it's running better than ever. I had to set the timing by ear because I didn't have a timing light handy. Now, it cruises nearly silent at 2000rmp 75mph. If it wasn't for the road noise and wind noise, I wouldn't even know the car was running.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

Dan

 

Congrats on the fix, Dan! Glad the chart helped you out- thanks for letting me know that you used it; I think you're the first one!