Is this cam too big for my combo
Is this cam too big for my combo
I have been looking around a little bit for a cam for my car, and I came across this cam.
xr288hr
236-242 .520-.540 110* with 1.5's,( but I have 1.6's so....)
it says 2500 to 6000 rpm range. That sounds about what im willing to go rpm wise. I dont care about how it idles and drives around just so long as it does. It just needs to kick a$$ at full throtle while keeping peek hp below 6200 rpm. I will have a custom chip burnt to what ever cam I get.
Right now i have an slp cam which I believe is 208-212 with 480-487 on a 112*. I have a 350 with aproximetly 10.8 comp, afr 190's, super comp headers, miniram, 3.73 gears, t-5 (2.95 first), and all the little boltons. With this combo I made 340 rwhp at 5600rpm so Im looking for more with a big bump stick. I dont know what lift my valve springs will handle ( i will have to ask the machine shop that did my heads) I just know they are duals with dampners. They look big
So what do you guys think about this cam?
If not this one then which cam.
xr288hr
236-242 .520-.540 110* with 1.5's,( but I have 1.6's so....)
it says 2500 to 6000 rpm range. That sounds about what im willing to go rpm wise. I dont care about how it idles and drives around just so long as it does. It just needs to kick a$$ at full throtle while keeping peek hp below 6200 rpm. I will have a custom chip burnt to what ever cam I get.
Right now i have an slp cam which I believe is 208-212 with 480-487 on a 112*. I have a 350 with aproximetly 10.8 comp, afr 190's, super comp headers, miniram, 3.73 gears, t-5 (2.95 first), and all the little boltons. With this combo I made 340 rwhp at 5600rpm so Im looking for more with a big bump stick. I dont know what lift my valve springs will handle ( i will have to ask the machine shop that did my heads) I just know they are duals with dampners. They look big
So what do you guys think about this cam?
If not this one then which cam.
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
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If you intend to drive it on the street at all, I would not run that cam out-of-the-box. You won't have any vacuum at all. It might work better if you have them custom grind the same thing, except on 114° lobe separation. That will also tend to lower the torque curve's peak, but flatten it out a bit and raise its RPM.
You will definitely need new vave springs. That's .576" of lift.
You will definitely need new vave springs. That's .576" of lift.
Originally posted by RB83L69
If you intend to drive it on the street at all, I would not run that cam out-of-the-box. You won't have any vacuum at all. It might work better if you have them custom grind the same thing, except on 114° lobe separation. That will also tend to lower the torque curve's peak, but flatten it out a bit and raise its RPM.
You will definitely need new vave springs. That's .576" of lift.
If you intend to drive it on the street at all, I would not run that cam out-of-the-box. You won't have any vacuum at all. It might work better if you have them custom grind the same thing, except on 114° lobe separation. That will also tend to lower the torque curve's peak, but flatten it out a bit and raise its RPM.
You will definitely need new vave springs. That's .576" of lift.
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Since you have every thing else to support that cam I can't see
why it wouldn't work well. The idle will be rougher but not unmanagable. Power prakes will be marginal as this cam is right
in the borderline. A auxillary vaccuum resevior may be nessessary.
Don't ask the machine shop if those springs are enough
for your new cam. They won't remember. Take one off and measure it for height and pressure, and compare it to what Comp Cams wants.
The tool to compress the spring on the motor is $15
Couldn't be easier.
why it wouldn't work well. The idle will be rougher but not unmanagable. Power prakes will be marginal as this cam is right
in the borderline. A auxillary vaccuum resevior may be nessessary.
Don't ask the machine shop if those springs are enough
for your new cam. They won't remember. Take one off and measure it for height and pressure, and compare it to what Comp Cams wants.
The tool to compress the spring on the motor is $15
Couldn't be easier.
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Originally posted by STOCKROC
why would a 110 lobe speration cam give me no vacum at idle? I know sveral lt1 guys running 110 cams with no problems, and there intakes are similar to mine. I dont kow what my vavle springs will handle. I just know they are supposed to be able to handle a big cam. I just dont know how big.
why would a 110 lobe speration cam give me no vacum at idle? I know sveral lt1 guys running 110 cams with no problems, and there intakes are similar to mine. I dont kow what my vavle springs will handle. I just know they are supposed to be able to handle a big cam. I just dont know how big.
So a big cam will have bigger lobes and essentially makes them "closer" together even tho it has 110* of lobe sep.
Make sense?
You should also ask the machine shop how much lift the heads can handle to see if you need to cut the guides down more. .576" of lift is beast.
The reason why I was thinking about using a 110 cam was to develope a little more midrange power, and to keep the peak power down a little. If drivability is gonna be that big of a problem with a 110 then I might just stick with a 112. I found a cam close to that ground on a 112.
290hr-12 230/244 - .510/.540 112 2000 to 6000 rpm
Alot of the lt1 guys are running this cam with good results.
Im tired of my exaust note sounding stock. Its time for my exaust to sound happy.:lala:
290hr-12 230/244 - .510/.540 112 2000 to 6000 rpm
Alot of the lt1 guys are running this cam with good results.
Im tired of my exaust note sounding stock. Its time for my exaust to sound happy.:lala:
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: '89 RS Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
I'm gonna add my $.02 to what V8Astro says about the Lobe seperation... I wanted a fairly mild motor that would idle decent, give me good vacumn, and work fine with the computer (with a custom chip in it)...the shop went with 110 degree LSA. Now I'm no expert, and I'm sure there's plenty more at work here than I know about...but I don't think you can make a blanket statement that 109 degrees just won't work.
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
how much intensity on the cam? is it roller? a roller cam with big .050-.050 numbers can pull alot more vacume because of less intensity. intensity = max duration - .050-.050 duration. My cam is a 303 / 313 with .050 @ 234/244 the intensity is therefore 69 / 79 degrees, which is ALOT compared to say, comp cam tappet grinds, they tend to have faster ramps then Crane or Lunati for some reason. the less intensity, the better for street. But, My cam is a 112 LCA. without the blower and a dual plane manifold it pulled 11" of vacume... barelly enough for brakes to work, somtimes i would have a problem. When I added the blower however, It pulls ALOT more vacume now and I dont have brake problems. My cam is a Flat tappet cam, a roller cam with the same exact .050-.050 WILL have less intensity because they use faster "ramps"
and therefore pull more vaccume.
Moral of the story: post your Advertised duration and whether or not its a roller cam. a 235+*cam @ .050 and 110 LCA with a dual plane street manifold (like the performer RPM) Will pull about 9-10" of vacume... BARELLY enough for good brakes, if the intensity on that cam is above 50. if its a roller, then its prolly less and will pull more vacume. blah blah blah Email me with questions Cam280magnum@aol.com
Disclaimer: I am not a camshaft technician nor do i specialize in camshaft choosing stuff so dont blame me if my information is out-of-date because its all off the cam manufacturer's websites and various books I've read and tests Ive done.
and therefore pull more vaccume.
Moral of the story: post your Advertised duration and whether or not its a roller cam. a 235+*cam @ .050 and 110 LCA with a dual plane street manifold (like the performer RPM) Will pull about 9-10" of vacume... BARELLY enough for good brakes, if the intensity on that cam is above 50. if its a roller, then its prolly less and will pull more vacume. blah blah blah Email me with questions Cam280magnum@aol.com
Disclaimer: I am not a camshaft technician nor do i specialize in camshaft choosing stuff so dont blame me if my information is out-of-date because its all off the cam manufacturer's websites and various books I've read and tests Ive done.
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Car: 1991 FORMULA
Engine: ZZ4 + LT4 HT CAM 430HP
Transmission: 700-R4 COMING T56
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.56's (COMING)
GO FOR IT !!!!!!
THAT CAM ISN'T TOO BIG WITH A CUSTOM CHIP....... AFR USED THAT EXACT CAM PART 12-433-8 WITH THEIR 190CC STREETS AND PULLED 503HP AT 5500RPM AND 517FLTLBS AT LIKE 4500 RPM... THAT IS THE EXACT SAME CAM I AM GOING WITH AND THINK IS THE BEST.... PM ZEPHER AND HE CAN BURN YOU CHIPS CHEAP.... ID RUN 26LB INJECTORS JUST TO MAKE SURE IT DOSEN'T RUN LEAN WITH THOSE HEADS.....
P.S. ROAST THEM SONS A BITCHES!!!:hail:
P.S. ROAST THEM SONS A BITCHES!!!:hail:
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