i had to leave my car at work tonight because it's not starting again. when i open the door the dome light turns on and i can put the key into the accesories mode and there's still power, but when i go to start it nothing happens, and the power goes out. i'm also on my 3rd alternator, and i just replaced the starter like a year ago. anyone have a clue.

 

I can't help but I have roughly the same problem.. new alternator.. battery.. key in.. start.. everything comes on.. but it doesn't even try.. play w/ the key.. few minutes later.. starts.. i have the steering column apart now.. refer to my other post w/ the crap i'm into so far.. and it still doesn't start.. its a mystery =(

 

i can hear the relay when i try to start it.

 

hows the batt? Fluid up to speck? Could be a short in the system or possibly a short in the starter itself. Ive had shorts causing no-starts in the wierdest places, ex: In the lights in my rear view mirror.

 

Bad connection, battery cable to battery

 

Ok, all of the above here... I really need to figure out what this is. Added to the above posts, mine also will never start when it is hot. As soon as it cools it's ok. But now, it's cool, it will click and still not start, but if I keep trying, it will eventually start. I get the clicking and all that jazz also. I just replaced the alt, cleaned the battery cables and connections and replaced the starter about 6 months ago. HELP!!!

P.S. - I even see the alt turn a bit when I try and start it, but only when it clicks.

 

while still in the parking lot, my friend and i removed the starter, and took it to pep boys, and had them test it and it was ok. put that back on and took the battery out and took it to pep boys to test that, and it was ok. which would mean that it's not the alternator because if it was, wouldn't the battery have gotten drained? anyone have a clue.

 

I ran into the same problem as well earlier this week. I could turn the key and get it into accessory mode, but it wouldn't engage the starter. I did like anyone else would do and checked the battery connections, but found nothing wrong. The radio could be turned on and my power windows worked.

It finally hit me when I took a closer look at the dash check lights when I turned the key. The security light stayed on. Usually it only stays on for 3 sec but it stayed on. So I checked the two connection points in the ignition that contact the (PASS-Theft)computer chip in the key. It turned out the connection points were not sprung back all the way. I fiddled with that for a while in 90 degree heat then took an break in the air-conditioned mall. I went back and it worked on the first try.

I haven't had any problems since. I don't know if that was what caused it or if the chip in the key itself was on the fritz.

 

i don't have that pass key dealy.

 

check connections. especially the positive lead to the starter and the ground strap to the pass. side cyl head. If they look corroded clean the connector and the surrounding area. See if that helps.

 

hey ok guys first My freaken car will not start> ok starter good, battery, good, getting power to the starter too. ok well here is what I think the guy who had the car before me had an alarm but when I got the car the alarm was disconectted could it be that the past owner did not disconnect it right if so what do I do.my security light does not come on, i am about to take it to a mechanic but would like to save the money. help please

 

same thing happened to my boat with a 5.0 cobra engine (that what my dad saysit is...). Turns out bad starter assist seliniod. What was happening was the starter was sucking to much power, and tripping a circut breaker...

 

i finally got her home, i went to uhall i rented a tow dolly, saved like $20 instead of having it towed, any way my friend and i had a few more ideas on what could be wrong. either the solenoid or the coil. does anyone know a way to test the coil or the solenoid, or let alone where the solenoid is. i couldn't find it in the chiltons.

 

You can trouble-shoot a starter easily with a volt/ ohm meter.
connect a DC volt meter from the bat + terminal to the terminal on the solenoid with the + bat cable attached, crank the motor over while watching the volt meter.
If it reads more than .2v, the + bat cable is bad.
Do the same on the - bat terminal to the engine block.
If you see more than .2v while cranking , the - cable is bad.
Connect a volt meter to the big starter terminal post on the solenoid and to ground (block) and read the voltage while cranking the starter.
If it reads 9 V or more and the starter turns slow, then the starter is pooched.
Connect a Volt meter from the large +Bat cable terminal on the solenoid, to the big starter + terminal on the solenoid. Read the volt meter while cranking over the starter. If it reads more than .2v,, the solenoid is bad. Connect a volt meter from the big +bat cable terminal
to the S terminal on the solenoid. read the volt meter while cranking the starter. If it reads more than 3.5 v
then either the start switch under the steering coluum or the neutral safty switch or the wiring to and from it is bad. These tests must be done with a fully charged battery and clean battery cable connections on both the battery
and the terminal on the solenoid and the ground on the block.
The starter must not be OVER HEATED or it will turn slow.
I wouldn't crank the starter for more than 30seconds at a time.
and a total of 1.5 minutes total before allowing it to COOL OFF well.

 

if the S terminal on the solenoid brakes, can you put that wire on the R terminal next to it?

 

Ok, my starter seems to be working fine. Still the same problem when getting hot though.

 

good question, fatass. i think mine was origionally hooked up on the left terminal (not the ceter one with all the wires. your starter wont work with the lead from the ign. there), but i cant be sure. You could check the resistance b/w the two terminals. If its zero, then id say its a safe bet that the two terminals are part of the same circuit. Hopefully someone else will know.

 

well i'm looking here at the troubleshooting page in the engine electrical chapter in my chiltons, and it says faulty solenoid, check solenoid ground, repair or replace as necessary. if i just replace the solenoid, would the problem go away?

 

well she's back up and running, after we put the solenoid on the starter and the starter back on, it started right up. but now there's another problem, my brake light came back on and i've lost alot of pressure. is there an easy way to check for a leak.

 

uh oh... id take it to the dealer or a reputable shop asap and have it checked. The brake light comes on when there is a large disparity between the two pressures of the system between the front and rear brakes.

 

Is the starter still holding up? No more starter problems?

 

Harley it sounds like you're getting heat soak.

 

What is that? The starter or 'noid getting to hot?

 

everything has been fine, except for my brakes. i'm pretty sure it was the solenoid. only one thing confused me, i had the starter bench tested, and it was ok, which you would think

 

Not exactly sure but I think solenoid. There are heatshields out there for the starter though and they're not that much. Summit has one.