88IROC350TPI

Well about 6 months ago my car, with only 63,000 miles on it, started the infamous puff of blueish/white smoke at start up. My car once sat for almost 2 years without ever being started so I figure thats what caused the premature wear.

Anyway, I've read through the archives and I'm sure I can do it myself but I have a few questions.

1) Can anyone give me a link to a site that has step-by-step detailed instructions on how to do it? I'm pretty sure I can do it but I like having back-up just incase something confuses me or I missed something.

2) What valve seals should I buy? I was looking on summit and there are a few different choices. I see all these different sizes, types, etc. I'm completely confused. Can I get some part numbers?

3) Any tips? I'm going to use the rope method since I don't have an air compressor.

Thanks,
Chris

ede

look in a repair manual for how to do it. it's pretty easy, run piston to tdc, you can tell with thumb over plug hole and feel it push your thunb away insert rope, measue the distance from the top of the stud to the top of the nut with a dial caliper then remove rovker arm. compress valve spring and replace seal, reverse order to assemble. now set the rocker arm and nut back on and replicate the original measurement and you won't have to mess with running the valves. i use fel pro parts, i like the positive seals and the o rings both.

Riley's35089rs+

thanks Ede, Ive never heard that part before....another tip to put in my "tips" folder..

88IROC350TPI

I'm still confused on the size.

I see these sizes:

11/32", .531" O.D. guide
11/32", .500" O.D. guide
3/8", .500" O.D. guide
3/8", .531" O.D. guide

I'm guessing I need to get 3/8" .500" if my memory serves me right? Or am I way off...

NTChrist

Umm, I didn't think stem seals came in different sizes...

If you're still asking about the stem seals, I would recommend using the fel-pro intake seals (on both exhaust and intake) part number SS 72527 ($11.XX for 8 at AutoZone). This will include the positive retention seals, o-rings for the groove at the top of the valves, and plastic seal installers.

I use the intake seals on the exhaust because the positive retention type tends to work better than the umbrella type, commonly used on stock exhaust valves.

RedZ28Chik

chris unfortunatly i have the SAME exact problem happening, the car sat for a few years before i bought it, its got about 62000 orig miles on it, and its smoking on startup and when i rev the engine. i think along with the valve seals you should replace your valve guides also, edelbroch makes good ones. I know its my seals though, but just to be safe i am also replacing my PCV to see if it by chance will solve it. Does anyone know if Chiltons shows you exactly how to go about replacing the seals and guides?

----nikki

88IROC350TPI

I never really thought they had sizes either but thats what it says on Summit and Jegs. I guess I'll try parts stores but damn I hate those little fools workin there ...always messing something up and wasting my time scratching their heads

Thanks

Riley's35089rs+

call summits customer service/tech line..they are helpful

NTChrist

Unfortunately, Summit doesn't sell the type of seals that I recommended.
Crane used to make a kick-*** version, but they stoped making it recently.
You could probably buy some teflon seals from Summit, but those may require machining.
Talking to Summit's tech line may offer a few alternatives, tho. Although, when I called them, they didn't have a positive retention seal to sell me.

88IROC350TPI

I'm just going to try the 1,500 different local auto parts stores later today. I really don't need any high-performance ever-lasting valve seals. These heads aren't going to be on the motor for very long. I just want the thing to quit looking like a beater when I start it up

I'm going to try to find the Fel-Pro SS72527 ones. I'll let yas know what I come up with

84camarojs

the valve seals are the seals at the bottom of the valve right, they are like a plastic cup? are you supposd to have them on both the intake and exhaust valves?

NTChrist

Yeah, both sides.
Although, the design of the stock seals differs between the intake and exhaust valves.
The exhaust is an "Umbrella-type" that is shaped like an umbrella, right side up. The umbrella rides (up and down and up and down and...) on the valve, just above the valve guide.
The intake seal is a "Positive retention-type." This sits on top of the valve guide firmly wrapped around the top of the guide. The intake seal is stationary, and the valve moves up and down through it.
I use intake-style seals on both exhaust and intakes, as they tend to seal better.

88IROC350TPI

I bought the Fel-Pro seals and I'm going to use the intake seals on the exhaust as well. This sunday will be the day I either A) have a smokeless car or B) screw something up, like usual.

Wish me luck

NTChrist

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

88IROC350TPI

Well, after 5 hours I got a grand total of 2 valves done!

I kept breaking those damper springs inside the spring so I gave up. I would compress the spring and they would just snap into peices. Whats up with those? Are they NEEDED? Can I go out and buy them somewhere without having to buy all new springs?

NTChrist

I don't believe you can buy them seperately. It sounds like a nightmare to be bothering with those.
I would recommend buying a valvespring, without an inner spring. I believe the Crane Cams stock replacement sized spring does not have the inner thingy. I think they retail for about $70. Call a tech line for more details.
No, they are not necessary, and pains in the *** to get back on, because they always slip out of the spring compressor, and end up being jammed halfway out of the inside of the spring.

Nordbert

I replaced a pair of valve stem seals on my 305 two weeks ago using the rope method. I backed off the rocker arm nuts 6 turns
and used a compressor that hooked the sides of the spring.
The stock valve stem is 11/32" and the guide is .531". I am glad
that the offending cylinder was # 2, instead of #8!

88IROC350TPI

So I can put the spring on without the dampers for now? My heads are coming off in about 3 months when I do a cam swap to have them machined for bigger springs and screw-in studs. If I have to buy all new springs then I'm just going to take the heads off and get an early start on the cam-swap BUT I'd like to be able to drive this thing around a little bit.

NTChrist

Ooo, um, putting your STOCK springs on without the damper maybe be a bad idea. I've never tried it, and couldn't really comment on it.
I would recommend getting an early start on the cam swap, if nobody else chimes in and says that no damper is OK. No point buying stock sized springs now, to get your spring pockets englarged later, and have to buy springs again.

88IROC350TPI

Well, I took off all the pullies, intake, and headers today but gave up because it was too hot outside. While loosening the rocker arms to remove the pushrods I noticed that there were peices of damper springs AND valve stem seals laying around ....ouch.

I guess I was breaking those damper springs for quite some time.