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what are some ways to increase oil pressure??

Old Aug 21, 2002 | 07:40 AM
  #1  
rocky383's Avatar
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Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH350
what are some ways to increase oil pressure??

I changed from TBI to carb (no ECM either) and still have the stock TBI fuel pump. I don't drive the car very often, so all the oil goes to the pan and when I go to start it up, it takes about 5-7 seconds for the oil pressure to rise high enough to cause the fuel pump to start working and for the car to start. Questions:

1. Should there be enough gas in the bowl to start the car without the pump running?

2. I am using Mobil 1 15w50. I could not find any 10w30 Mobil 1 when I changed my oil. I was told that synthetic 15w50 would pour like conventional 10W30. How big a difference would changing to 10w30 make in how fast oil pressure rises?

3. If a car isn't started for 4 days are moving parts coated with enough oil to protect them for 5-7 seconds?

4. Is this not the problem?

There are 7000 miles on the engine.

:hail:IROC-Z

Last edited by rocky383; Aug 21, 2002 at 07:48 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 08:07 AM
  #2  
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Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
I've used the 15w-50 Mobil 1 the last 2 oil changes, and it helped a little bit for the oil pressure.
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 10:30 AM
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RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Are you using a Fram oil filter? If you are, get rid of it, and put anything else on it, I'd suggest a plain old AC PF-35.

Thicker oil takes longer to build up pressure because it flows slower when cold, especially through filters.

Yes, the bowl should hold gas for a couple of weeks.

Yes, 5-7 seconds before full OP should be OK.

I use 5W-30 or 10W-30 Mobil 1, and I have >60 PSI OP as fast as the gauge can rise after starting the motor. I have a Melling M55 pump with the Mr Gasket #26 spring, and no other modifications to the oiling system. You might want to try a new sending unit; they have a little orifice to restrict the movement of oil in and out of them to damp the gauge, yours may be mostl plugged up.
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 11:04 AM
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ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
i have m55 pump and mr gasket 26 spring and it pegs my 60 lb gauge quick as it fires. every engine i've ever put this set up in did the same. i'm running straight 30w pennzoil right now.
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 01:40 PM
  #5  
rocky383's Avatar
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Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH350
how is the best way to get to the oil pump? Take the pan off? And does the oil need to be drained to change the sending unit?

Thanks

:hail:IROC-Z
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 01:56 PM
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Right, the pump is inside the pan. Probably best not to fool with that until you're sure you have no other options.

The sending unit is either right behind the distributor, or on the side of the block right above the oil filter. With a swap situation there's no telling exactly how it all got put back together. You don't have to drain the oil to change it.
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 09:17 PM
  #7  
rocky383's Avatar
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Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH350
I appreciate all the input.

:hail:IROC-Z
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 09:54 PM
  #8  
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
When i was contimplating putting on a carb (well, i still am) i was going to put a small momentary action press button switch in a convenient location to trip the fp relay to get the pump to go on during startup. That might solve your long start problems.
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