Anyone have a battery relocate article?
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From: Boise ID
Anyone have a battery relocate article?
I'm looking to relocate the battery on my car. I want to be able to take the car to the track so I'll need to put a switch outside the car I think. The problem is I don't know what to connect to the battery and how. I assume (there's that word again) that I can ground the battery right to the frame in the rear of the car. What will I have to do with the possitive wire? What guage wire will I need to use. For those who have done it how long did it take?
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
You could look at catalogs to see what comes in battery relocation kits, and copy what they have. Maybe a company would even fax you directions "to see if you're able to install it or if you'll have to bring it to a garage" (feed them that line, maybe they'll bite). I'm pretty sure you get 0 gauge, and can ground the battery to the frame. Not sure about other connections, like alternator, or accessories, or kill switches...
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Grounding it to the frame is fine.
To make it legal for the track there are a bunch of things you need to do.
1. The battery must be in a sealed container and vented to the outside. Even if you use a sealed battery like an Optima it still needs to be isolated from the driver's compartment. Moroso make a nice box for just such a situation.
2. The battery must be secured with at least 2, 3/8 diameter bolts (redi-rod).
2. The master switch at the rear is very specific. It can't be keyed or made of plastic. The off position must be clearly marked. If setup in a push pull position, push must be off.
3. The postive battery wire must be wired through the master switch.
4. When the master switch is turned off it must kill the engine and all accessories. This means running another smaller power wire and a relay to the rear so that the alternator is disconnected when the master switch is turned off or the alternator will keep the engine running.
That's about it. Because I also run a fuel cell in the rear, I don't have my batteries in boxes but I do have a fabricated firewall at the rear now.
To make it legal for the track there are a bunch of things you need to do.
1. The battery must be in a sealed container and vented to the outside. Even if you use a sealed battery like an Optima it still needs to be isolated from the driver's compartment. Moroso make a nice box for just such a situation.
2. The battery must be secured with at least 2, 3/8 diameter bolts (redi-rod).
2. The master switch at the rear is very specific. It can't be keyed or made of plastic. The off position must be clearly marked. If setup in a push pull position, push must be off.
3. The postive battery wire must be wired through the master switch.
4. When the master switch is turned off it must kill the engine and all accessories. This means running another smaller power wire and a relay to the rear so that the alternator is disconnected when the master switch is turned off or the alternator will keep the engine running.
That's about it. Because I also run a fuel cell in the rear, I don't have my batteries in boxes but I do have a fabricated firewall at the rear now.
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From: Mpls, MN USA
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