I finally fired up my engine after 2 months of having it out. Right when it fired up, around both of the heads just under the exhaust manifold, it started leaking coolant. the head gasket size i believe is .022 if im correct and i spent 75 damn dollars on ARP bolts. now when i was torqing it in the specified order, all to 65ft-lbs i noticed it clicked just a little to soon for my taste. didnt think it was anything. now im wondering if the wrench thought it was 65ftlbs because of friction between the metals. i didnt lube the bolts with any oil, and i applied a little silicon to the begining threads. someone told me that with the ARP bolts and the thinner head gasket that i should torque them down to about 85 ft-lbs. should i loosen and retorque the heads to 85ftlbs, maybe lube the bolts a little? i DO NOT want to take the damn heads out . by the way its leaking it looks as if its just loose, like the rings around the bore are in the head gasket arent flattened yet?
HELP!!!

 

DO NOT tighten the head bolts!!! It will not stop the leak, and will probably actually make it leak. Too much clamping pressure warps the desk surface. That is not how to get one to seal.

It doesn't matter what bolts you used; the better bolts aren't for keeping it from leaking water, you use them in high compression motors or other situations with high cylinder pressure (nitrous, boost) to prevent combustion leaks from the bolts stretching.

The reason it's leaking now is probably because of the thinner head gaskets. The thinner the material is, the less it can move around to conform to the castings as they move around (a surprising amount, actually). That's why the people around here that build lots of motors don't recommend using those; the couple of tenths of CR isn't worth the hassle.

I don't think you're going to fix it without pulling the heads.

Next time, don't use silicone on the bolt threads. Every single motor I've ever torn down that had been built that way, they leaked. The natural motion of the parts always tears the sealer. Use some kind of non-hardening sealer, Permatex 300 or Loctite PST are the favorites of most of the builders. Put it back together with Fel Pro 1014 gaskets and don't worry about it any more.

 

alright thanks.......think i could still use the bolts again? is .022 really that thin to where it wont comform? no more than 65ft-lbs? im thinkin that the torque wrench was lying to me.. ive been a auto tech for a few years and it just seemed to click too early? sure i shouldnt loosen them all..maybe give the threads a drop of oil and try to retighten to 65? should i have done the tightning in increments of 30 then 65? if you truley think it would be very wrong to try this then please tell me to shut up and and get new head gaskets.... . it just really looks like theyre too loose. thanks for the help

 

Listen to RB, he knows what he's talking about. If you think your torque wrench is wrong, by all means get another one and tighten them, but with the silicone on the threads it's going to leak anyhow. That's not for threads. Yes you should tighten the bolts in sequence twice.

 

alright guys....much appreciated. back to rippin the heads off... at least i dont have to take the motor out again. as for the bolts... can i reuse then...i know i have to take the silicon off.

 

Yes, you can re-use the bolts, no problem. Definitely check your wrench if it didn't seem right, no point in taking a risk there.

I usually run them down snug in sequence with a 3/8" ratchet which would be good for 30 or 35 ft-lbs or so, then to about 50 ft-lbs, then to 65, then go back around the sequence one more time to 65; almost always, the center few bolts are well below spec after tightening the others. I use the beam-pointer type wrench even though it takes a few seconds longer, I never cared a whole lot for the clickers personally.

 

I'm on my second clicker right now. It was accurate for a little over a year. When I need to torque something correctly I borrow my buddies snap-on wrench.

 

Note that Chilton's manual for some GM V6 vehicles recommends the following head bolts torque:

82 - 86 models: 70 ft-lbs

87 - 89 models: 33 ft-lbs, the turn 90 degrees (33 lbs + 1/4 turn)

Why? Very strange difference?

 

the 33 ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn are torque to yeild bolts and are not reuseable. as far as i know all torque to yeild bolts will have a torque spec like that and all torque to yeild bolts shouldn't be reused

 

I would recommend chasing the bolt holes in the head. This just insures no hang up. I didn't and ended up snapping one of my head bolts (this was not the entire reason but definitely part). This will also help with future tear downs and will yield a more accurate measurement.

 

The + 1/4 turn torquing sequence is called 'torque to yield'.

The clamping force is determined by the lead of the thread and the amount it is turned to actually permanently stretch the bolt.

Most manufacturers who use this method require that new fasteners be used everytime the engine is assembled.

 

sorry ede, guess you beat me to that one.

 

sorry ede, guess you beat me to that one.