Sub frame installation ?'s
Sub frame installation ?'s
I talked to a mechanic about getting sub frame connectors welded in. He quoted me 2 hours of labor which comes to $150. He says most of the time is spent polishing stuff? Is this reasonable?
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
That sounds about reasonable, for a quality job not just a slap-in...
"Polishing" probably isn't the right word; "cleaning up" and "grinding" are usually more what's called for.
"Polishing" probably isn't the right word; "cleaning up" and "grinding" are usually more what's called for.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,526
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
make sure you dont get sfc's that require hacking up your floorpan, they're cheaper by $100 but that will get made up with the extra time and effort the shop guy will spend cutting your floor.
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,144
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From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
the best shop in town (IMO) charges 60 bux and they do it all the time. thats 1 hr of labor i believe
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Different ones do it a different way.... but the ultimate object of the exercise is to connect the rear lower control arm mount points to the "frame", such as it is, of the front of the car; the "frame" sheet metal pieces end next to the trans. Any additional stiffening of the body as a whole is a plus, the more the better. The better SFCs will run all the way along the rocker panels almost from one wheel opening to the other, and are "stitched" to the floor pan at intervals along there; then they have a part that sticks toward the center of the car and welds to that reinforcement section near the trans. The cheaper ones, like Alstons, just go kind of sideways from the one point to the other.
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,099
Likes: 21
From: Melbourne Australia but from South Carolina
Car: 1991 Trans Am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Auto
I know most people would rather have welded in sfcs, but I chose the bolt in type from Competition Engineering and am extremely pleased with them. I chose the bolt in type because anyone can install them and I also didnt want to open up the chance for more rust. Mine required only several new holes and the fit was great and the results are fantastic. Also they are heavy duty and are great for lifting the car at any point along side the car with a regular sizzor jack.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 920
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From: Saskatchewan
Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: 454 Demon 850DP
Transmission: TH350, 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73
If you think you will be getting your car to run under 12.00 down the road get you sfc's put in by a shop that can put a roll bar/cage in later. That is what I did so it will be the same shop doing all the work the way they like to.
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