my buildup is looking at 400 foot pounds at the flywheel, and arond 350 HP at the flywheel... will I break anything with that setup?

 

Yes i'd like to know also, i'll be pushing 420 hp and 440 tq. With my 357.

 

I don't think you'll have any problems guys. People are running 11s and 12s with stock rear ends.

 

depends on your luck, and how you launch, and what tire you use. if your using a 12" wide slick and a 3800 Stall converter with a Transbrake, your going to blow your rear end on the first run.

 

Like King Said, its all in how you Use it.

You could probrably break it w/ a Lg4 Doing 6k Clutch dumps on ET streets

With Street tires rolling into the clutch off the line, it will probrably live forever in the 12's, Look at all the LS1 Guys.

As for 11's Its time would probrably be limited at that power level regardless of how you run it.

Don't Do Donuts, Don't Do cltuch dumps, and Don't use a transbrake, It should really survive just fine.

 

You have absolutely nothing to worry about. My friend had a near 500hp at the crank aluminum headed 350 backed by a 4 speed manual trans with a solid torque arm mount, drag shocks, and E.T. street tires, quite possibly the worst combination to hit your drivetrain with............he was pulling 1.7 60 ft's bang shifting to mid 12's and never even came close to grenading his stock thirdgen rear. And his rear was BONE stock. Only thing that ever broke was his spider gears, which is an easy fix. I know of at least 2 Turbo Trans Am in Tucson that run low 11's with 1.6 60 fts on slicks with stock rears, so you're fine.

 

Exactly...........

 

i had my original rear end in my car with the motor and specs in the sig for a long time. only upgrade was a mini spool. it held up just fine but i never ran any slicks on it.

 

heh erik- a 9inch or 12 bolt that will fit these cars will run you about $2000

food for thought

 

Ahh only 2000 dollars... more than the motor and tranny are costing already...

I'll have a posi rear, with 3.42's.... probably be launching off some street slicks or something useing my own foot to hold me.

probably use some Spohn stuff to help me off the line as well.

 

I grenaded my stock 3.73 open-rear 7.5" 10-bolt two weeks ago.

Mods in the sig. I really don't beat on it that much.
Well, ok maybe I do.

 

sig please.

 

my bad.

 

Depends on which rear your car came with also.
If you have a Borg Warner 9 bolt, they have been run well into the 11's with 1.6 short times consistently with stock internals. The 10 bolts are weaker.
And I believe the TTA's came with a Dana 44? rear end, not sure though.

 

i've seen 10second cars running the 9 bolt rear ends. Not like my car will ever be that fast to test out my 9 bolt though.

 

I've been running my 9 bolt for over 4 years now behind my 500hp big block with no problems.

Miles
www.9bolt.com
www.koolmeister.com

 

I've gone through 3 rebuilds with my 10 bolt. The teeth on the damn ring gear would keep busting off. When money comes around, it's time for a 9".

 

looks like I'll be rolling into the gas with this combo. I believe I have a 10 bolt rear.

 

my 9-bolt broke, (lost some teeth on ring and pinion gears), mid 14 sec 305 on reg street tires driving on the street. ~90,000 miles. No problems with my '96 10 bolt so far.

 

You keep stripping gears because the gear case is flexing, causing the gears not to mesh correctly. A girdle or reinforced support cover will fix this.

 

<b>I've been running my 9 bolt for over 4 years now behind my 500hp big block with no problems.
</b>
yeah and I bet you spent $1500 beefing it up? Just curious, you ARE the 9-bolt parts distributor

<b>You keep stripping gears because the gear case is flexing, causing the gears not to mesh correctly. A girdle or reinforced support cover will fix this.</b>

I was told (also READ) the WEAKEST PART of the 10 BOLT is the Case itself, and under any kind of load it sees enough Flexing to tear the internals up, grinding them to dust. Thus, from what I read, I totally Agree. (opinion)

 

Nope. It's completely stock including the axles and the sheet metal rear cover (because I still haven't finished the aluminum ones yet Performed a standard rebuild on the posi unit (all stock parts). I spent more money on having the rotors turned, new break pads, and a new caliper!. I bought it from a board member (thanks Kevin ) about 4 1/2 years ago who got it from a wrecked 87 Iroc in Canada.

PS I am also developing stuff for the 9 bolt as well. The only things I will currently mention are the rear covers (I know, way too long) and ring gear spacers (for mounting series 3 gears on series 2 carriers).

Miles

 

I might just shell out the cash for the 9 bolt parts I need to make mine nice. What Should I expect to replace?