hey guys. im thinken about headers adn exuahst. im looken at the dynomax catback. i was just curious what poer adding mods i can make to my car that i can use the parts on a 350 for. hx alot guys.

 

The best mod is the 350 itself...

 

Hooker headers and Hooker cat-back. sound clip in the sig. Dynomax cat-back is rather quiet.

 

holy crap that exuahst souds amazing

 

Yeah, I usually post that recommendation on the exhaust board and people say I shoulld work for Hooker, I've sold many this way.

That's with a non hi flo cat too. and before my cam and gear drive mods.

 

Better carb (edelbrock performer 600 cfm electric choke-1406) and a better intake (edelbrock performer (NOT THE RPM because of were your power band is right now)). These can both be transfered. Better fuel pump. I wouldn't go much farther than this as far as the motor goes. these are just suggestions.

 

How is the Edel carb better? I hear a well tuned Q-Jet is hard to be beat.

Not too mention he'll have to get a diff distributor and take care of the TC LU somehow.

 

why is it better you ask?? Well because the intake is a hell of a lot better and because IMHO (maybe because I'm ignorant) the edelbrock is much easier to tune. I've had nothing but problems with them. Now like you siad I've also heard that Qjets are good. But from experience The edelbrock is unbeatable. the distributor only costs 100 from auto (comes with ignition module) cap is 30, coil is 30( rotor button is included), and rotor is like 10. Switch for torque convertor lock up is $3 and wire is like $2. I can give ya the Diag, but you've probably seen it already. Plus, read Chevy Hi Perf, they did a swap.....can't remember how much more Horsepower but it was significant.

 

One screw, remove hanger w/two rods dangling off it, put in your choice of rods and/or hanger, replace screw. Adjust AV spring tension. That's what it takes to tune the secondaries of a q-jet.

The CC q-jet tunes the primaries itself.

Can't say I can go along with the Edelbrock carb recommendation. If emissions is an issue, then forget the Edelbrock carb entirely. You certainly won't get more power out of the Edelbrock than you will out of the q-jet. The Performer intake is hardly an improvement over the stock q-jet manifold (although the Action + and GMPP intakes are).

My stock replacement fuel pump keeps up just fine with my engine. Although not a 350, the typical mild 350 won't stress the fuel pump more than I do.

Exhaust is the right way to go to improve performance now that will also work on the 350. The other thing that needs changing is the air cleaner, again it'll improve power now and transfer to the 350.

You could also change out the cam, but that's a good bit of work if you're going to be replacing the engine in the not-to-distant future.

Replacing the carb is the wrong place to start spending money if you want to improve performance.

 

hey five7 I'll post that article asap . As for the intake not being better....well thats just being naive. Yeah the carb isn't the right place to go but the cam is . Considering whatever cam you chose for a 305 would most likely than not be a little too mild in a larger displacement engine.

Your fuel pump did fine while mine didn't do a damn thing for me. I look at the aftermarket as a type of preventative maintenance (esp when setups become wilder).

BTW-exhaust was already mentioned.

 

Can you get an updated clip of that exhaust? And a little better quality, too. It sounds awesome, and I've always been a fan of Hooker exhaust. Is the header a long-tube or short? Super-comps?

 

Follow the parts in my sig. They will all work fine on a 350 when that day rolls around. They produce a solid one hp/ci on a 305 and will also let you hit 350 hp on a 350, too, as long as you step up a notch on the cam

This setup purrs like a kitten as a daily driver, gets 16 mpg around (my VERY hilly) town, 25 mpg on the highway and will run mid-14s in the quarter mile. On a 350 it will have you in the 13s--no problemo. And it ought to last as long as any factory Camaro, so you can't beat that with a stick

 

Sorry no can do, the car will be out of commission for at least another month or so.

New heads, headers coming, and a new carb.

The headers on their now are shorties.

 

hey sitting bull I noticed that you also have 305 heads!!
I haven't yet started the car with the heads on but I can't wait. The first time around I hit a valve, but I think I overtightened a valve. Anyway....I took the heads back off and now I'm doing some work to them. I've polished the combustion chambers, bowl blended, ported the intakes (only longitudinally; very little on width because of light casting weight *I'm using the 416s*) --A side note on that is when My friend and I were porting, one of the heads had bad core shift.....yep......we hit water. So I just bought another head. We're just finishing them up. We ported the hell out of the exhuast. I left a little bit of a fine grit finish in the intake for atomization, but exhaust is completely polished. All ports are gasket matched. New screw in studs, new swirl polished valves. We put 1.94 valves for the intakes and profiled the chambers for fit and flow. high lift single springs (I think there 1.25" up to 520 lift), 3 angle radius job on both the valves and the seats. And new valve seals.

How well do you think this should perform? What kind of numbers did you get from yours. I haven't read your link yet but I will.

 

I wish I had read your thread first. Damn!!! I'm still amazed at all the info in there. I wrote it all down. I've done almost everything you have except having them milled. I'm thinking about the backcut valves. I'm still not sure how they produce better flow numbers at lower lift though?? Can someone please explain??

Thanx

Brian

 

You'll have a very nice set of heads and even if they aren't "perfect" will still support well over 400 hp

The short side radius is important to work over. I have several large pics on the thread to show it. Hogging out tons of iron isn't necessary. Just shaping everything so it doesn't have any sharp curves or nasty bumps and juts sticking out in the airflow is what it is all about. I found that just getting things smoothed out well enough in the runners and bowls required the removal of quite a bit of iron, anyway. So the volume they now flow (which I haven't flow benched) has got to be about what the other guys like F-Bird'88 are getting. His now have better flow than Vortecs!

It is the same with the 3 angle valve job. You are just exposing the airflow to minimal disruption from the backside of the valve, as it enters the chamber.

F-Bird'88 is a real pro at it. Look him up, he's here every day. His latest 305 heads support 500.58 hp!

I'm glad you decided to just get down and do it! So many people are freaked out over the whole idea of porting their own heads!

But once you've done it once, you realise that anyone can do it. It just requires patience because you are looking at a 20 to 30 hour job and there is no way to hurry it. Iron is just too hard to rush along with a little grinder. And that is what keeps you from making major mistakes, too

 

I was just reminded last night on how bad the castings are on my 305 heads... soooo much material can come out on a gasket match it's unreal. I did an intake swap and almost pulled the heads off to work them over too hehe.

 

i wanna make my first mod heads. i dont know where i can get a decent cam at a decet price. are heads hard to put in? will i have to put the car up on a hydrolic jack to get em in? im not verr knowledge able on doing stuff to my car, thats why i worry about messing things up.

 

You can get cams for a decent price at summit.

Changing the heads is a perfect time to change cams, since a lot of the stuff will already be out.

You don't have to have the car on stands. I only pulled mine up on a ramp, to take off my headers from the y pipe and then back it down and took the headers off.

 

Yeah. Well I did f*ck up and guess what......life goes on. I hit water on one of the heads due to really bad core shift so I just bought another (actually I traded for an old set of heads I had laying around) and started over on that one. I have a friend helping me out (this guy REALLY knows his ****-I can't even begin to tell you all the places he has worked) Anyway, hopefully we can finish this up soon. I'll let ya know what kind of numbers shes putting out (my friend is hooking me up with free dyno time!!)

BTW- Like you said anyone can do this....patience is the biggest key. This has taken me 3 months (hitting it every weekend but lately its been hard since I'm up at school).

 

Yes, the intake runners look very close to a match as they come stock, but once you mark them out with the gaskets and start grinding, you find a lot of iron is coming out!

 

Hey five7,

Article is in Chevy High performance, August 2001, page 94-. The take a 87 camaro 305 (Qjet) and run a stock time of 17.45 at 78. With only a performer egr manifold, they gain 0.7 seconds and 5.61 miles an hour in the quarter. Now tell me again how this manifold would not be better!!!

 

Read the article again. They did more than the intake manifold between those runs.

 

Ok. I read it again. after-cat flows , K&N, (only .2 decrease) and manifold, newer fuel pump (like I said, It will help)--- (.46 decrease). I doubt the increase in initial timing really helped. These are all things (fuel pump, manifold) I mentioned to do. This resulted in a .7 second decrease in time. I'm willing to bet with headers and the 3.73s they are putting in, it will hit mid to high 15s. I'm also willing to bet that the manifold accounts for most of the performance in that run.

 

can someone post me a link to a reasonable cam for a reasonable price plz? one at like summit or sumthing. thx