whats the difference from regular oil"? thnks

 

I would think additives, that aren't needed and it's just a advertising gimmick.

I believe there's a reason why people just stick to Amsoil and Mobil1 on here.

I could be wrong though.

 

yep i agree it's just a ploy to get you to spend more money for oil and or additives you may not need. i read on a bottle of valvalie ,i think, that it was for engines with more than 75,000 miles. i'll bet most cars and trucks on the road today have over 75,000 miles on the clock. stick with a good brand of oil and filter and change your oil at regular intervals and you should be fine.

 

ok cool thnks for the answer. thats what I figured.

 

I used valvoline max life for about 50,000 miles so far i have 215,000 miles on my car before i used it i was buring oil really bad now im not burning any oil i think it does what it says it does and thats all i use now on my car.

 

ok thnks another opinion Ill have to do some research. thnks

 

what do you guys think of castrol? ive been using it for years w/o any problems but alot of people are boasting moble1.

 

Ha, comparing Mobil 1 to Castrol..

 

there have been a few people post links to differant test preformed on oil and castrol has never done very well. now you'll find thousands of castrol users who have never had a oil related problem.

 

ok just wanted to know if I should buy some or not I know of people that use cheap stuff andnever have a proble either. I dont know Ive always used castrol. nobody here likes castrol and from the stuff Ive read its not as good. Guess Ill swoitch the next time I chane thrr oil. Fing gas prices rsky high again so oil should follow it never does for some reason.

 

I saw a test done that showed that it doesnt matter what oil you use and you dont need to change it every 3000 but every 5000. It was done by consumer reports. it basically said if your bying mobil1 and have less than 300 horse your waisting your money. I prefer the 1.25 a quart oil at every 5000 miles. never had a problem!!!

 

I'm glad I need mobil 1 since I have over 300 horses. I wonder how they came up with this magic number Oil here is like 1.60 for the cheapest brand, what are you getting that costs 1.25?

 

I dont know were you live but the cheapest oil im lookin at in the store is actually bout .89cents a quart. So im not sure if you need to put some glasses on or maybe pull that stick out or you a$$ but if I was you Id shut it.

 

Dude, not everybody has a Walmart that sells brand-X recycled oil. I'm sure rezinn was talking about quality, brand-name oil. What oil are you getting for 89 cents? I'm closer to rezinn in my price for Quaker State. Now instead of shooting off your mouth and being a deek, how 'bout you tell us what brand oil it is you get for that price?

 

To answer the original question simply go to thier website and look at thier inspection data. Most oil companies will post a data sheet that gives viscosity index, pour point and other information you can use to determine the formula. Mobil1 now lists thier 5-30wt as newer car formula. Chances are the high mile stuff uses a heavier base stock and more viscosity improvers(polymers) to eliminate consumption. Personally I thinks it's more ad hype than anything else. High ploymer content is not desireable and that is where synthetics are superior. Syn's because of thier design don't need the polymer additive to the extent that "dino" oil does to maintain viscosity over the operating temp. I have looked into oil into great depth mainly because I have high performance sportbikes that generate a lot of HP with relatively small engines so oil is more of a factor than with most cars. Also one of the guy's in our group works for a major oil company. Basically what he says and I pretty much agree is that almost any API certified engine oil will perform well for most applications. While I prefer synthetics for many reasons you won't do an injustice to your engine using a conventional oil. Modern oils have extremely good additive packages that will provide excellent protection if you maintain the service interval recommended. I would stick to a good quality 10-30 for most average driving. Amsoil, Red Line, Mobil1 are high quality oils but their increased cost is something the end user has to decide. I pretty much agree with CR as far as thier opinion about the use of synthetics. We all love our cars and will spend about anything to do right by her, but in reality there are a hell of a lot of cars out there using "dino" oil with lots of miles.

 

Exactly. I use $1.00 or so oil in my Stang, it's a beater and I'm not too worried about sinking Mobil 1 into it. But, I won't be using no cheap oil in my Chevy.

 

Danno,

Great info.

I just go by results. Tearing down a 110,000-mile engine and finding EVERYTHING within manufacturing tolerances (not wear tolerances) was reason enough for me to continue using Mobil 1 in that engine, and all others I have. Then again, I plan to keep my cars longer than most people, and despite my enthusiam, don't like to have to repair them unnecessarily.

I've always had the best results by following the service intervals, no matter what products were used, just as you stated.

 

You can get basically any brand for that price. Not syn's but regular oil. You just have to buy it in the gallon jugs. I dont use That cheap of oil cause that would just be stupid. I use chevron supreme motor oil and it does me good. Ohh yea and by the way rezinn was shootin his trap first. I was just retaliating.

 

I'm failing to see how rezinn was shooting his trap, but... :: shrug ::

 

JUST HAVIN A BAD DAY. MY BAD. LETS DROP IT. OK?

 

I doubt that's the case. VI improvers thicken an oil at high temp that's thinner at low temp. A thick base stock with more VI improvers would result in higher SAE numbers (such as 30W60 - I've never seen a 30W oil, though).

What I understood was they put in more plastisizers. Petroleum oils leech out the plastisizers from seals, which is why they get hard. If they can obsorb some of the extra plastisizer in the "high mileage" formulation oil, they may have some of their pliability restored.

The most common plastisizer you may have heard about is called Armor All (sp?). But, I wouldn't recommend adding that to your crankcase. The engine stop leak products (for oil leaks) are also high plastisizer content.

 

Here we go again. I took a look at thier website. The high mile stuff comes in two grades, 10-30 and 10-40. Overall specs don't seem all that different from most stuff, perhaps a slightly higher flash point which would be consistent with their claim of reduced consumption. What I was stating by base stock was not anything out of the ordinary but since most cars state 5-30 as the preferred grade they basically bump you up from 5-30. Same thing Mobil1 has on their bottle now. Viscosity improvers will help to keep the oil from thinning hence reducing consumption. Consumption is a big headache with cars running 5-30 conventional oil. GM released a TSB stating 1qt/4k as being acceptable for their engines. Bump it to a 10-30 and consumption is cut by more than half under the same set of conditions. A lot of dealer mechanic took it upon themselves to put in 10-30 on smaller overhead cam engines. Both GM and Chrylser warned dealers about this after they started seeing an unusual amount of worn cams within the warranty period. I use Mobil1 5-30 in all my cars and basically go 7500 miles between changes without having to top off. By the way 5/7, my Kohler tractor engine uses Mobil straight 30wt.

 

ok great info guys thnks alot I put in 10w 40 should I switch to 10w 30? 95,000 miles on the 350. thnks

 

Run 10-30 for normal driving. most 10-40wt oils use a lot of VI improvers to provide the range. problem is this, the more polymers in the oil the more subject the engine is to to ring sticking and misc. deposits. polymers are wonderful things and have added much improvment to provide mulit-grade oils but they do have some drawbacks. for a v-8 engine the best overall grade is probably a 10-30wt. look at your driving application, extended high speed use a 15 or 20 wt base but for normal use a 5 or 10wt .

 

Me too guy!

 

cool thnks

 

Nothing wrong at all running "dino" oil..hell everyone in here has used it. Bottom line thou is that "syn's" are the best for youre ride..do a little research..common knowledge that syn's have longer drain intervals than dino oil..better protection at all temps...i lived in alaska for 5 years trust me i know!! i have run castrol,valvoline,etc etc..used em all...running amsoil now and never lookin back...later..

 

ok I have heard that it is not good to run synth in older motors?? I use synth in all my other cars though thnks

 

Not true. If the crankcase is relatively clean, leaks are managable, consumption is acceptable to you, no problem. I currently have synthetic in 4 engines that were switched over from 80k-125k (all have at least 20k on them since).

With regard to my previous post about MaxLife:

I assume by "5-30", "10-30", etc., you mean "5W-30", "10W-30", etc.

VI improvers reduce thinning, like you say, at high temp. Therefore, whether an oil is "5W-xx" or "10W-xx" would make no difference with regard to operating temperature consumption, if the "xx" is the same in both cases.

Do you have any published data to back up this claim of 1/2 the consumption of 10W- vs. 5W- oils? Sure doesn't line up with any of my experience (and I'll add 0W- to that list). Of course, I've only used synthetic in those lower "W" viscosities, but this is the first time I've heard of anything like that from any source.

Valvoline's website says this about MaxLife (from the Lubricants World article): "A unique seal-conditioning agent helps maintain and preserve the elasticity of engine seals to help prevent leaks. Additional cleaning agents to reduce deposit formation to keep engine cleaner and pervent horsepower loss. Special friction reducing agents ... to help maximize fuel economy and power output. A special blend of premium oils and additives helps provide easier and faster cold starts, better resistance to thickening, and reduced oil consumption. Extra anti-wear additives... Available in 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, and 20W-50 viscosity grades..." Hmmm, nothing about extra viscosity index improvers.

By the way, all of those benefits are obtained by using AMSOIL synthetics - in spades.

Think about this: There is a fixed volume available in 1 quart. The more additives you put in, you have to use less of something else (read: lubricant). If the base stock can handle more of the conditions demanded of a particular lubricant (viscosity index, wear resistance, cleaning, dispersancy, seal elasticity, anti-oxidation, base number, etc.), then fewer additives need to be put in. Hence, a significant benefit of a synthetic base stock lubricant - more constituents by volume that lubricate.

The greatest success of MaxLife is in the marketing world, not the technical world.

 

Exactly, imagine how many women they sell that stuff too.. I know my GF uses the Quaker State syn hi milage oil in her Blazer.

 

Great post thnks man

 

Five, my conclusions came from real world experience. Two Blazers, both 4.3L one a 96 the other a 98. After break in it was normal to add about 1 qt bet changes. Spoke with chevy and with a regional rep for chrysler who is a good friend. To quote him basically he told me if you took one of thier v-6 engines with 5-30 dino and drove from pennsy(here) to calif it would run out of oil. His words not mine. Thats why many dealer mechanics were using 10-30, which I also did on one of the blazers. Between changes it did use some, but it was not enough to have to add any. brand was Mobil conventional both grades. flash point for both was 392 degrees so that should have not been an issue. The only conclusion I came to was that perhaps because it had a lighter base stock it may have been blowing past the rings enough to cause consumption. Most likely when it was cold before the polymer coils unwound to provide viscosity target. Switching the blazers and the cavalier to synthetic 5-30 virtually eliminated the need for any top off at all. Think about this for a minute, there are only two things that will help reduce consumption. One is the flash point, and the other is viscosity. Exact formulation is almost impossible to get from an oil company for obvious reasons but I'll be willing to bet that this so called high mileage stuff has more added VI improvers than thier conventional stuff. Since 400 degrees or so is about the highest flash point for a parrafin based oil it's the only thing that makes sense. Thats where the benefits of Amsoil or other syn's come into play, hell me thinks Amsoil is over 500 if I am not mistaken. One point I forgot and probably the most important is this. A 5wt oil is always a 5wt oil regardless of the Vi improvers used. It may reduce thinning but it always remains a 5 wt base stock. Some guy's may not realize that you cannot manufacture a 30wt oil from a 5 or 10wt stock. Multi Vis simply means that the base 5 or 10wt will not thin more than a 30wt would when hot. The only way to have a true 30wt is to start with a 30 and then add VI improvers to try to maintain it. There is most likely the reason for increased consumption. Point of fact is that a 5-30wt multi-vis never really becomes a 30wt oil. Interesting topic, Dan

 

Great post thnks man