I was wondering if i should paint my new Pro Iron Lightning 200cc heads. I would like to keep them from rusting, should i paint the with engine paint. Will they rust if i don't paint? An other suggestions?

 

When I was going to get the iron ones, I was goin to get some nice aluminum color paint, just engine paint stuff. But now I don't have too.

I'd spray em, but I don't see them rusting out of the box...

 

Thats a good idea using aluminum paint, is there high-temp available?

 

Yeah, I think summit has some rated to 500*, that should be enuff for heads right? or do they get hotter than a block??

 

500* should be fine thanks, i'll look around.

 

painted mine chrome/aluminum with engine enamel. If you want them to look aluminum, while spraying your last coat, hold the can farther away. If you want them to look shiny, hold the can closer.

 

black is a good color for heads and oil pans, entire engine really but it isn't very colorful or flashy

 

This aluminum paint is good for around 1200* Farenheit.

 

If it's VHT or similar, it's soluble in gasoline.... not the best choice for cast iron.

 

A high temperature ENAMEL is the way to go. It's always worked well for me, except on Pontiac heads - I could never find a paint that would survive the temperature at those exhaust extensions.

 

You know, if i had aluminum heads, i would paint them black for the sleeper look. Painting iron heads aluminum is just plain gay though. Why act like you have go fast parts when you're just running stock heads. Or even if they are aftermarkets, AL paint is still playing the wannabe role. I mean, if you want AL heads, buy AL heads.

 

You make a few good points there. But I'd rather show off my aluminum heads. Tough call, cuz I like the sleeper look too.

 

I don't want them to be aluminum head look-alikes i just think that aluminum looks cool. I would love to keep them unpainted cast iron but the would discolor and rust. I love the look of natural metal. Do you think i could clear coat them with high-temp, is there such a thing.

 

Black has shown to be the best for dissipating heat. You can purchase GM engine paint in black from any GM dealer under part# 12346297 for gloss or 12346296 for low gloss. Or use VHT engine enamel. BTW, painting iron heads silver looks like ____ (fill in the blank).

 

yes u can get clear coat as well in high temp. Ive always used it after I painted my engine parts.

 

They make a hi-temp paint that is cast iron color. Not sure of the brand, but it is like the cast aluminum for alternator.

 

The clear coat will discolor to sort of a yellowish clear after a while on any parts that see lots of heat (like heads and blocks). Works great on the intake and other stuff though.

 

Reminds me of all these kids runnin around in Civics with stickers of companies that they don't run on their car.

 

Seeing as how it's just plain stupid to NOT paint cast iron heads, your only option is to paint them. Just like some people like green, some like blue, some like red, some people like natural, metalic colors. Whats wrong with silver? Are all silver cars on the road "Delorean wannabees"? Besides, who said he's going to be showing the car with the hood open? If he's his own mechanic, he will be the only one with the privelage to look at it. Advising someone which type of paint adheres better or lasts longer is one thing, and dont get me wrong, it's very helpful, but who are we to tell the guy what color he is supposed to like best?
:hail: the paint ****'s

 

Strange Ive never had the clear goyello on me.

 

Mine are candy-apple red along with the rest of my motor

 

What's with the gay business, Ed?

My heads are fully ported, polished and bowl-blended with a three angle valve job.

I like the contrast they provide with the black engine block.

 

Yeah, it does make it look better. Though, if one were to try and pass them off as aluminum, sayin "yeah they're aluminum", then that would be gay.

 

People shouldnt be embaressed by what they have and can afford. just be proud of what u have. anyway I dont think any of this has to do with what he asked to begin with. paint them whatever u like. yellow if u like. they will look good for years to come if u paint them right.

 

all that and you have pull out studs, the factory rotators and shields

 

What are shields, never heard of those with heads?

 

How long has it been? Mine lasted about 6 years, then it started changing color. Its minor mind you, but noticeable.

 

ede baby,

With the lift I'm running with my cam, .454, that is all I need.

So what might your colossaly intellectual point be???

Nothing???

Imagine that--a moderator with more mouth than brain.

Put your noodle in gear next time, before exposing us to your large sized mouth

 

I used the POR engine paint kit on most of my engines. The stuff is like 80% solids, so it takes days for it to dry, but it looks great and last forever---except on a damn Pontiac. The exhaust ports on the Pontiac motors will cook off anything I've ever tried.
Still, the best engine paint I've used is the POR stuff.
http://www.por15.com/category.htm
-Rich-

 

Looks like the hi-temp factory manifold gray would be perfect for the cast iron look ME leigh is looking for.

 

Yes they will rust unless painted. For years now I've been painting my engines white. This is basically the heads, block, water pump and bell housing. I clear coat the intake (alum) and paint the oil pan gloss black. P/S pump gets gloss black also.

I use white as it makes it sooo much easier to see while working in the engine bay. Dark colors absorb too much of the available light. That and it is easier to find the oil leaks.

RBob.

 

You know what's hilarious. Ede has built more engines than you ever seen, and is working on the finishing touches of a simple 4.3 V6 powered camaro that would suck the ***** right off your cars radio.

As to his points, the fact that you don't get it is telling enough. If you're shooting for reliability (i thought your car was a year round daily driver and must never give you hard time), screw in studs are a must for any cam swap engine IMO if you've already got the heads at the machine shop anyway. A stock cam operating in a stock RPM band can pop a stud, the likelihood only goes up when you increase the lift and RPMs. Also add in that ede had no way of knowing that you were running a baby cam anyway, most people wouldn't bother spending all that time porting heads just to run a 'RV' cam
And the stock oil shields just add unnecessary weight to the valvetrain. The fact that you and / or your machine shop didn't know to leave them out is basically all the proof anybody needs to know that you are some non-performance engine building geeks. You can't brag about how cool your heads are when one glance is enough to figure out that corners were cut. But when you rely on desktop dyno for your performance estimates, i guess details don't matter....

 

Not to take sides here, and I'm sure ede is very experienced, but how can you make a statement, like that first one??

And a side ? that 4.3, is it going to be a boosted engine? just wonderin, I have no clue of ede's engine build up that is upcoming, and just askin.

 

Ed,

First off, what business is it of yours as to what corresponds between ede and myself?

None???

Imagine that, another moderator with more mouth than sense of place and manners. Yes, rather "telling enough" Ed

Second, if ede wants to criticise something I do, shouldn't he at least get the facts before doing so???

I know that is not your modus operadi, Ed, but the rest of the world happens to work that way

Third, the cam I choose is my business, not yours. If you want to call it an "RV" cam, that's your business. But I somehow was under the impression that the moderators job was to "moderate" the discussions and offer HELPFULL advice, not to call peoples' parts "gay" or call other members "geeks." :nono:

So let's take this discussion to the people who own the board. I think they might just be informing you to act like a moderator--or find another bulletin board to post your antagonisms on

 

Sitting Bull:

I was just thinkin' today how cool the alumium paint is on your budget home ported 305 heads. Then I seen this thread.

I haven't painted mine yet but their going aluimium.

If by chance on of thoses studs EVER EVER EVER moves 1 micron
get a hammer and a old rocker nut and pound that sucker back down, drill a small hole right through the stud boss and insert a .04 cent roll pin. It will never bother you again.

HAAAA HHAAAA haa Don't let these arm chair experts get to ya. Just tell em to line 'em up......

There are some that do....... and the rest critique.

You and I know if the shields and rotators were good for 5500 rpm before , they'll bo good for 5500 rpm now.
Which is all that motor needs.
Some people don't live in the real world.

Good Luck to ya....

P.S. Tell 'em to bring their snow tires.... Hee Heeee heee

 

sitting bull you must of read a lot more into it that i typed. all i said was you did a boat load or work to your heads and also had factory installed studs, rotators and oil shilds. wasn't criticising anything, just stating the obvious in case some of the others here didn't notice. now long as you're all here remember to play nice on thirdgen.org

 

Well, now.... Isn't that special? I hate to step into the middle of a urinating contest, because I never come out clean, but we've all apparently had our hoses out a little too long.

However, there are some things I've learned:

1. We can almost all agree that painting iron heads is probably a good idea (the main point of this thread);

2. There's no accounting for taste or color reference, and it really shouldn't matter, as long as the owner is satisfied;

3. There may be a better choice for external engine paint than the enamels I've been working with;

4. And a few other things that have made me start to believe that we're all just a bit stressed over nothing.

Hopefully, we've at least answered the original poster's question.