car is about to be junked
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 638
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Car: 89 trans am
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
car is about to be junked
well so far so bad. this car has givin me nothing but trouble. 1984 trans am 305. almost everything on this junk is brand new but still it causes me trouble all the time. well this is my newest problem and certainly will be the last cause when it's fixed i sell her and save up for a 95ta.. i'm 17. ok to get with the problem this just started recently once it gets warmed up and i get on it the thing smokes like crazy, it leaves a cloud of smoke and burns SO much oil it's not funny. today i was coming home from work and it just constantly burned the oil.. thats how bad it got. ok.. oil found on the side of the dipstick all the way in the front of the engine sort of by the fan. what could possibly be my problem now!? thanks everyone respond asap cause i want this thing fixed and out of my life.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
As I suspected...
Check the front of the block, pass side, down low on the front, right above the oil pan, where the smog pump used to bolt. There will be 2 bolt holes. The upper one goes directly into the crankcase, and if there's not a bolt there, it will produce an oil leak that doesn't do anything at idle, but absolutely spews at higher RPMs. Put a short bolt in it, less than 1" long, with some silicone on the threads. Don't use a longer one, because it will hit the fuel pump drive rod and lock it in place, and the engine will not run any more.
Then take it to the car wash and clean it up, and you'll be able to find any other leaks since they won't be swimming in oil.
Check the front of the block, pass side, down low on the front, right above the oil pan, where the smog pump used to bolt. There will be 2 bolt holes. The upper one goes directly into the crankcase, and if there's not a bolt there, it will produce an oil leak that doesn't do anything at idle, but absolutely spews at higher RPMs. Put a short bolt in it, less than 1" long, with some silicone on the threads. Don't use a longer one, because it will hit the fuel pump drive rod and lock it in place, and the engine will not run any more.
Then take it to the car wash and clean it up, and you'll be able to find any other leaks since they won't be swimming in oil.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,823
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
Originally posted by RB83L69
As I suspected...
Check the front of the block, pass side, down low on the front, right above the oil pan, where the smog pump used to bolt. There will be 2 bolt holes. The upper one goes directly into the crankcase, and if there's not a bolt there, it will produce an oil leak that doesn't do anything at idle, but absolutely spews at higher RPMs. Put a short bolt in it, less than 1" long, with some silicone on the threads. Don't use a longer one, because it will hit the fuel pump drive rod and lock it in place, and the engine will not run any more.
Then take it to the car wash and clean it up, and you'll be able to find any other leaks since they won't be swimming in oil.
As I suspected...
Check the front of the block, pass side, down low on the front, right above the oil pan, where the smog pump used to bolt. There will be 2 bolt holes. The upper one goes directly into the crankcase, and if there's not a bolt there, it will produce an oil leak that doesn't do anything at idle, but absolutely spews at higher RPMs. Put a short bolt in it, less than 1" long, with some silicone on the threads. Don't use a longer one, because it will hit the fuel pump drive rod and lock it in place, and the engine will not run any more.
Then take it to the car wash and clean it up, and you'll be able to find any other leaks since they won't be swimming in oil.
just put the bracket back on if you still have it. if not just do what RB said. drive to the car wash and wash the engine. drive around and notice no more smoke or oil under the hood
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