Eliminated all my passenger side pullies
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 876
Likes: 2
From: St. Louis
Car: RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" for the ladies
Eliminated all my passenger side pullies
I only have 4 pullies now. Crank, P/S, alt, and water pump. The left side A/C and smog and tensioner are gone completely. The extra room is incredible. I can get to the water pump hose so easy, along with everything else. Since most people who run an a/c delete pully already have gotten rid of their smog pump this seems like a easier, cheaper, and more spacious way to go.
The belt I used is 3 tenths short of 51 inches
The bolt gets pulled tight to the bracket but doesn't go thorugh the stock bolt hole. It goes on the outside of the bracket. Thus no tensioner needs to be made.
The belt I used is 3 tenths short of 51 inches
The bolt gets pulled tight to the bracket but doesn't go thorugh the stock bolt hole. It goes on the outside of the bracket. Thus no tensioner needs to be made.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 876
Likes: 2
From: St. Louis
Car: RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" for the ladies
Sorry no pic. Cars 50 miles away on jackstands. I only work on it on weekends. Scanner's 50 miles away with car, but the computer is right here in front of me 
Not sure what else you want to know. I completely removed the passenger side bracket. The lower two bolt may have to be put back in the block as they may go in to the mechanical fuel pump area. Not sure but I left them.
Other then that you take a 50 and 7/10's inch serpintine belt and go in the stock location and then just from the crank back under the water pump to the alternator.

Not sure what else you want to know. I completely removed the passenger side bracket. The lower two bolt may have to be put back in the block as they may go in to the mechanical fuel pump area. Not sure but I left them.
Other then that you take a 50 and 7/10's inch serpintine belt and go in the stock location and then just from the crank back under the water pump to the alternator.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
Likes: 0
From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Right, but how does this setup allow you to set the tension on the belt? Do you just use a prybar on the belt to get it on, or??
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 876
Likes: 2
From: St. Louis
Car: RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" for the ladies
I said the alt bolt goes on the outside of the bracket not through the hole. So to put the belt on you just have the alt tight in its stock position. When the belt is on pull the alt tight and put the bolt through outside the bracket. Perfect tension on mine.
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If you have all of your loading one just one side of the crank/water pump, etc. you might damage the bearings!!
Maybe consider putting your alt. or something where the A/c or smog pump went.
Just my $0.02 !!
Maybe consider putting your alt. or something where the A/c or smog pump went.
Just my $0.02 !!
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
Likes: 0
From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Originally posted by Aaron91RS
I said the alt bolt goes on the outside of the bracket not through the hole. So to put the belt on you just have the alt tight in its stock position. When the belt is on pull the alt tight and put the bolt through outside the bracket. Perfect tension on mine.
I said the alt bolt goes on the outside of the bracket not through the hole. So to put the belt on you just have the alt tight in its stock position. When the belt is on pull the alt tight and put the bolt through outside the bracket. Perfect tension on mine.
.Also, I don't think it will affect bearing life either.....
my $.02
Oh, nice work on this too
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