Ok...I just got in my TA a few minutes ago, let her warm up, then flicked the vents on because its like 20 degrees outside. I noticed that I heard a high pitched wind noise, and there was very little air coming out of my vents. I switched it to heater, and there was air on the floor, but not much. Same with the defroster. This just started. The vents used to work fine. There seems to be ok air coming out of the top center vent on the dash, but all the others are just trickling out. Any ideas? Does this sound like a vaccum problem...or maybe a problem with my HVAC controls?? Let me know what you think.

Justin

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=147078

Read that post.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...wer+motor+wire

Actually read that one, it's probably more about your problem.

Does the air flow change when you change the speed on the fan switch?

 

gruveb... Yeah my blower motor gets power just fine. And all the speeds work. As a matter of fact I just replaced the high blower relay cuz it was fried. Air comes out of the top center vent, and blows fairly well. But as for the others, there isnt enough air coming out to do anything. Very very little. Actually I cant even feel it through the pass. side vent. It seems to me that the "diverter" or whatever is down in the dash that directs the air isnt working. Im just not sure where to start checking it. I mean...I know on my old 67 that it was all vacuum. But I dont know about my bird. I would assume there is still vacuum. I need to read the book. Its at home and Im at school, so ILl have to wait for the weekend. Thanks for the ideas though. Keep them comin!!

Justin

 

ghetto,

You may have the same problem as Gruveb. Yes, the air outlets are controlled by vacuum. Here's what I posted for Gruve on his problem:

The HVAC controls in your car are operated by vacuum. Each outlet and bypass door in the duct work has a small vacuum diaphragm motor that operates the door open or closed (except for the temperature control door, which is direct-cabled). Each of these vacuum motors has a spring to return the door to its "home" or default position. Applying vacuum moves the door one way, removing vacuum allows the spring to return the door the opposite way.

In addition to being an electrical switch to enable the blower and operate the A/C compressor clutch, the HVAC selector position switch is also a ported vacuum valve that routes the vacuum to the correct door for defrost, heat, A/C, MAX, Bi-Level, etc. The source for the vacuum is the intake manifold or plenum. There is a small (about ¼") hose connected to the intake. If this hose is disconnected or damaged, the HVAC controls will assume their default positions, causing all air to exit the defroster ducts. The defrost position is the default so that if the system fails, driving safety can still be assured since the windows can be kept clear.

Under normal circumstances, when the HVAC controls are moved to a different position, you should be able to hear a slight hissing noise inside the vehicle as the vacuum is vented from one motor and routed to another. If you don't hear any noise when the control is moved, chances are that the vacuum source hose is disconnected, connected incorrectly, or pinched or damaged in the engine compartment. If you hear a constant hissing noise, there is likely a vacuum leak inside the passenger compartment. This can be from a disconnected or damaged hose, or a failing ported vacuum valve in the HVAC controls. In either case, you would need to remove the HVAC control cluster and/or the lower instrument panel trim to access the hoses and controls.

If the air outlets cannot be controlled as they should, you may also have a problem with the ported vacuum valve itself. After many years of use, temperature changes, etc., the layer of silicone grease between the two halves of the valve housing may have dried out, allowing vacuum to operate servos that shouldn't operate in a particular position. I have had success in removing the vacuum valve, cleaning off the grease and mating surfaces, and applying a fresh layer of dielectric silicone grease to seal the valve housing. This takes some time, but returns the control to new condition.

 

Vader...thanks for your response. I think it might actually be something with the vacuum inside the car. All the hoses on the outside in the engine bay are new...or atleast checked out good ealier. As for my HVAC controls...I have no clue of their condition. All I know is, when I switch the heat on, I hear the hissing, and the doors moving like normal...it just seems like the doors arent fully moving to their positions. Like they are opening halfway. I guess a vacuum leak could cause this. Ill have to check it out. I just really hate to tear my HVAC controls and the upper console out because I just put all that back together. Not to mention its 23 degrees outside...makes alittle hard to work for extended periods of time. Let me know if anything else comes to mind!!! Thanks again.

Justin

 

i recently posted a prob like this but got no good fixes, so here goes again. my stereo says its playing (radio and cds) but there is no sound. also my heater doesnt work. they both went out at about the same time so i think that my speakers and blower motor are both grounded at the same spot and the ground wire disconnected or broke. does anyone know where i could find this wire and what color it is. but it would have to be one inside the car, because i dont think my speaker wire goes under the hood. my stereo gets power, and it is just one connector that plugs into the back of my stereo with probly 8-12 wires coming off the connector. any ideas??? thanks for any help.

 

Tough call. I'd suspect that they are seperate problems though.

Factory or aftermarket stereo?

What you can do is test the blower motor just as described in the link in this post.

Test the wire on the back of the blower motor for voltage, and if you have none there, just to completely eliminate the problem, use a jumper wire to send 12 volts to the terminal and see if it works.

Next thing is to actually try hooking up the speaker wires from the stereo to the easiest speaker to get to. Just run the speaker wire over the top of everything, you'd only be testing it. If the speaker doesn't work, your stereo is probably fried!

 

i fixed it... it was a bad vacuum connection. right behind the VHAC controls... i hated tearing it all apart again, but i needed heat bad. its 4 degrees here right now...

Justin

 

Glad to hear you got it.

Where exactly was the leak? Where was the hose going to and from where?

 

Well...Im not completely sure if I fixed it all the way now. Today I got in her and she didnt want to heat me up at all. But, I found the leak right where the vacuum supply comes into the control unit. I think... I fixed it because when I had it apart it was obvious there was air coming out, and there was a break in the hose. Im gonna have to look into it more after Im home for break.

Justin