I'm kind of in a pissy mood right now because my Camaro has been running so smoothly but tonight I noticed that when I came to a red light, the engine jerks a little and sounds like it may stall but never does (more so when my foot is off the brake), then when I give it gas, it is fine- no jerking. So when I got to the store, I popped the hood and sure engough my oil dipstick was sticking out of the tube again (those who remember I brought up this question of why my dipstick kept popping up.) Well, for that I was told to replace the PCV valve, which I did, and didn't have any probs, with the dipstick till tonight. So I am assuming it is not the PCV valve but a leak from a different source. The dipstick is a sign that you have a vacume leak right? Oh and, when I popped the hood, the engine would have a pattern where it would sound normal and get quiet, sound normal, get quiet and so on... So if I do have another leak, where could it be coming from? Thanks a lot guys. -89IRO

 

if it just does it hot and when you stop it sound like the TC lock up switch. it may or maynot be related to te dip stick, but it's sure something to consider. first off make sure you have a good tune up and scan for codes, make sure FP is good. about the only place you can have a vacuum leak is around the intake or carb/tbi. spray some oil, wd40, anything to make it seal and it'll change the idle, watch a gauge when you do it and you'll see it happen as well as hear it.

 

The TC lockup? If the TC stays locked when he's decellerating, the car should feel really jerky and buck all the way down through the decelleration..like decellerating on a stick without popping the clutch... (This is all assuming it's an automatic)..but you can usually tell when the TC is locked. Engine tone is extremely deep and low and if it's locked when it shouldn't be, you can hear it grind sometimes. ESPECIALLY when accelerating and you hit 2nd gear and it locks... Also, TC can't lock in first gear.

What I'm getting at is, I don't necessarily see the connection with the Torque Converter Clutch lock here...

 

TeePee Eye engine?

Have you checked the idle air control? It sounds like the idle speed is surging/huntng by your description. Is that the case?

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"December 7th, 1941. A date that will live in infamy."
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Every idiot I see driving a Honda or Toyota with an American flag stuck out the back window is going in the ditch, so help me Mr. Roosevelt.

 

I was thinking about a sticky IAC valve but wouldn't that stall the car completely when coming to a stop, etc?

 

TC lockup? Some of these terms I'm not understanding, and can you guys tell me where they are on the car? It is an automatic. It isn't jerking when I slow down, just when I'm at stop but most when I'm at a crawl (at a light with my foot off the brake.) But does it sound like it is a vacume/pressure problem? Can you guys just write back and tell me what the prob(S) are so I can understand? Thank you. -89IRO

 

The TC is the Torque Converter. So, the TC lockup is the torque converter locking. The TCC is the Torque Converter Clutch, what controls the TC's locking and unlocking. You know right when you pass 40 mph, you hear what sounds like a gear shift but not quite and the rpms drop...that's the Torque Converter locking. Normally the Torque Converter will only lock in 3rd gear above 40 mph...but if there's something wrong with it, it can lock earlier..you can also wire a switch to lock it any time you want manually, except in first gear. Physically impossible to lock it in 1st. I figure it's probably running just as bad w/ the brake as without, just you can notice it more when it's crawling..sounds like your idle speed is jumping around like Vader said. Does it ever stall? I dunno...still sounds like vacuum to me. Vacuum leak = doesn't want to idle, idles really rough, stalls/almost stalls a lot, but it runs fine when you get on the gas pedal for the most part. Check your hoses for cracks/leaks/unplugged ends, etc. Do you get any SES lights ever? And does it stall when you go heavy on the brakes?

Ohhhh btw, have you checked your fuel filter? A clogged up fuel filter could do that...mine did!

 

I had the fuel filter replaced about 3 months ago when I had it tuned up. But that still may be the problem. I don't think it's the TC because there is no problem at all when I am on the gas. It only jerks when it is at idle like I said above. I think it is a vacume related problem because of the dipstick. Everyone know that if you poll the PCV valve out of the valve cover, the engine will stall. And that is what it is trying to do at idle (even though it hasn't completely stalled on me yet.), so there must be a leake elsewhere. There are so many damn hoses I don't know where to begin. The Check engine light (is that what you meant?) comes on every morning when it is cold and usually stays on. I thought that was from the Cat. converter but I had that replaced last week w/ my new exhaust. So now I think it is from the O2 senser, but now you say it may be reading a vacume leak? Do you think I should take it to the mechanic to have it scanned? Thanks. -89IRO

 

Oh, how would I "check" my fuel filter? -89IRO

 

No no no, don't pay to have it scanned. Don't buy a code scanner. Take a small length of wire..speaker wire, whatever..a paperclip works too. Anything conductive. Look under your steering wheel...take the panel off (if you have one) to access your fuse box. Look to the right of it..there will be a funny looking thing..almost looks like a plug to hook a printer up to. It's got a bunch of small boxes and thin metal inserts in them. Take the wire, and hook one end to the UPPER RIGHT box and the other to the box to the IMMEDIATE LEFT of it. Flip the key forward but don't start the car. THE Check Engine light will come on and then start to blink. It should do 1 blink, followed by a pause, and then 2 more blinks. Then a longer pause.. It'll repeat this 3 times. This is a code 12...means the thing is working properly. Keep watching it..it'll start to flash out codes that translate into reasons your car is telling you to Check the engine. If after the 12's, it blinks twice, then a pause, and then 4 times...that's a code 24. Got it? It'll blink every code 3 times before going onto the next..and when it's done, it'll flash you a Code 12 again. Write all your codes down, and go here:

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml

Scroll down to almost the bottom and you'll see a long list in red...those are the meanings of all the codes. Check them out. Now, the codes in memory are from the last..50 or so starts I think. Some might be old from parts you already replaced. To be sure which code you're still throwing, disconnect the battery for 30 secs..that'll reset the ECM. Or you can disconnect the ECM pigtail..it's a tiny wire near the battery...I don't have one though, and I don't know why. Then drive the car like you normally would and check the codes again after..that'll give you all the fresh ones.

Check those out, see what the car tells ya and post back here..I'm curious to see what the problem is, but like I said, sounds like vacuum. There are hoses everywhere..it's just a matter of hunting. There's a big thick one going into the powerbooster...you can trace that one back and you'll probably find a cluster of hoses around that one...follow those, might find a few more..that's how I do it!

 

Had the same problem with my 88 Jimmy turned out to be a bad egr.

 

Extra: It isn't the Torque Converter..I was just informing you on it since it came up earlier. Can't tell you on how to check your fuel filter..I've honestly never checked mine, just took it to a mechanic and he replaced it when I first got the car. I'm not too savvy on doing things myself. I know how but I lack skill and frankly I don't trust myself.

FYI-If you haven't replaced the O2 sensor, it's a good idea to do it. How long have you had the car without replacing it? An O2 sensor, a Bosch OEM-style, is around $20. Very easy to do...get the car jacked up, it's on the Y pipe..screwed into the side. Trace the line up to the connector and disconnect it. Get a wrench or something and carefully unscrew it. Let the car heat up first..not a lot though, just enough to warm the pipe a bit..makes removal easier. Make sure not to strip the pipe.. Take the cap off the new one and slide it into the pipe and screw it in snug. BE CAREFUL...those suckers are EXTREMELY delicate..knocking it just a little bit can break it. Reconnect the line, and reset your ECM. If you don't, fair warning: the car might act reallllyyy weird until you do. Mine started throwing Check Engine lights with codes that didn't make sense until I reset it...

Now that I'm about to have a seizure from typing all this..

 

Yeah, definitely the EGR is a possibility.. An EGR flowing too much in will cause a rough idle or stall... I just read all the info and symptoms on a bad EGR valve, and I'm gonna have to check this out..sounds just like my car! Lol, but mine's not very bad...just a little rough idle and some surging at cruise.. You should have a vacuum EGR if I'm not mistaken...those are a little trickier to replace but they're cheaper. I've got the digital EGR..pay out the butt for it but it's simple to hook up.

 

Wow, O.K. that's a lot of info there. It isn't a problem for me to get it scanned because I do so much business with my mechanic- can get it done for free. Today I noticed that the thing going into the pass. side valve cover was loose. Is this another PCV valve or a breather? Whatever it was is loose and do you think this may be a problem? And how do you reset the ECM? Where is the EGR valve at? And if that is a problem, how do I fix it? Damn this sucks- everything is going wrong with my car this weekend- just found where the damn coolant leak was too (that's another story.) -89IRO

 

Yeah...I was REALLY bored! Passenger side tube is part of the PCV system, but it isn't the PCV valve..it's a tube that the PCV system uses to take fresh air in and circulate it through the crankcase. Shouldn't be a problem if it's loose, it's just better for it to be nice and snug. To reset the ECM, there are several ways... Look for your ECM fuse and pull it for 30 secs or so... You can find its location if you still have your owner's manual...it might be labeled on the box, I'm not sure. Now this method is SUPPOSED to work, but it didn't for me and I don't know why. Considering that was SUPPOSED to kill power to the ECM...I don't know. Method 2, look for a very thin wire somewhere near the battery/washer fluid tank. It'll have a small weatherpak connector on it..looks just like the oxygen sensor connector, or the Electronic Spark Timing connector that you disconnect to get a timing reading. Unplug that for 30 secs or so. Again...I don't have one and I don't know why!! Method 3, disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 secs. This resets EVERYTHING, including the ECM and, unfortunately, your radio presets. Fair warning..if you do that, the car shouldn't start the first time so dont get freaked out. It'll probably stall and stink of gas a bit...I think that's just the IAC valve re-learning its position or something... The EGR valve, at least for the cars I've seen, is on the passenger side, near the valve cover... The vacuum one I think looks like a UFO...but I can't remember since I have the digital which looks a lot different. Couldn't tell you how to replace the EGR but I don't think it's too hard....I imagine it's just a matter of unbolting some tubing, taking some screws out, disconnecting vacuum lines, etc.

 

O.K. I found the problem. I heard air coming out of one of those really small rubber tubes (about the width of a plug wire) near the front of the car. I cut it of and just stuck a screw in it for now because it was too shot to re-attach it to that thing in the front of the car (I'm not sure what it is). At closer inspection, I noticed that all of that small tubing was all brittle and cracked, so my project for this weekend is to replace it all. But anyways, now that I did that, the idle was no longer choppy and I took it around the block a few times and had no hesitation. Thank you so much for the help man. After that, I think I want to throw in new O2 sensor like you said, and hopefully that'll make the "check engine" light go off. -89IRO

 

Hey..right on. Glad I could help! Try tracing that vacuum line out, see where it goes..is it driver or passenger side? Passenger side there's a few..one runs under the car into a funny, orb-looking thing.. I have no idea what it is, I told a friend it's the thing that gives the car all its power....I think I called it the 'orb of power'..but AAAANYWAYS.....yeah, it's a good idea to replace all those vacuum hoses. Vacuum makes a BIG deal in how the car runs. They're pretty easy to find and only really get pricey if you get the silicone colored kind like I'm getting...may be expensive but it'll make the engine look a lot nicer, along with a new overflow reservoir tank! Anyways, fill me in if ya ever get that Check Engine code scanned. Take it easy and remember....the general rule....as long as you throw money at the car, it'll run good. As soon as you stop, something breaks. My car's proven that to me many many times.

 

Yeah, that got rid of the jerking but I am thinking there still may be a small vacume leak because after I replaced some of the hose, the engine still sounded regular then gets quiet, sounded rugular and gets quiet and so on... and the rpms are bouncing a little and not holding steady. Or is this normal for our engines? Maybe I just never noticed it before. Well if I find another problem it's O.K. because I still have over 8 feet of that hose that I bought this morning! -89IRO

 

Could be...just replace all the hose and see how it acts then. My car has a rough idle too...doing stuff like the O2 sensor, new wires, plugs, cap and rotor helped it a LOT but it's still got a nasty shimmy to it..can't figure out what it is..most of my vacuum hose looks brand new, except the huge one going to the powerbooster. You said it's like normal, then quiet...what's the rate of this, like how many seconds of each? And is it a regular interval or kinda random?

By the way, make sure to replace the vacuum hose with hose of the same size. Going bigger or smaller could increase or decrease the vacuum enough to make things screwy I think..

 

I checked all the hoses and they all looked fine (except the ones that were bad I replaced.) Yeah, I kept it all the same size hose. I had an entire tune-up on the car done like 5 months ago so that isn't it. Like I said before, this hasn't been going on that long, just noticed the other night. The sound of the engine is very inconsistent- sometimes it sounds fine. -89IRO

 

Any specific times when it does it mostly? Like, mostly on a cold engine but goes away when it warms up, or vice versa, etc? You said it's only really at idle? How's your alternator? Does it hold a steady output? No discharging?

 

I am not completely sure about that- I will check tomorrow morning when it is cold and listen to the engine. All the times that I've heard the engine like that was yesterday and today when the engine was hot. What would the alternator have to do with it? I haven't had any charging problems since I've had the car (7-8 months), battery is always charged up and ready to go. -89IRO

 

Just curious..trying to nail things down. A low battery will make the alternator discharge, and when the alternator discharges, the car runs like sh*t. The alternator is sometimes a little helping indicator too of how rough you're running. Output should be 13-14 on a warm engine I believe...cold you'll probably get 14-ish, maybe a tad higher.. My output cold is closer to 15...I think my voltage regulator is going bad. Alternator puts too much juice out..it's nice though, it'll power anything! Doesn't lose a single tick with the high beams on, stereo on full, and all interior lights on with the blower on full. But that's beside the point! Gotta forgive me..I'm tired..I can barely think right now. Lol. Now you said the engine sounds funny...does it run funny when it's sounding funny also? Just check it out tomorrow and get down as much random info as you can...like, how it sounds/runs when it's cold, same when it's hot, oil pressure, average alternator output on a cold and warm engine, blah blah...every little bit of info helps. Couldn't say what it could be right now, but it sounds like ignition or something in the sensors... Actually..before you do anything tomorrow, reset the ECM...either disconnect the negative terminal and grind your teeth when your radio settings go bye bye, or try to find the pigtail or fuse I mentioned. Hook it back up, start it up and let it stall like it probably will the first time..start it up again and run it til you get the Check Engine light, then paperclip the top right two terminals on your diagnostic port...do the test I mentioned earlier and give me the Code #. That'll help out BIG TIME....it can, if not completely nail the problem down, at least narrow it down to a few distinct possibilities. It'll save a lot of time and possibly money.

 

O.K. so tomorrow should I first unplug the (-) side of the battery for 30 seconds, so it all gets reset? Then the next day I'll just drive it like normal and then that evening I will scan it like you said (sounds kind of tricky though hopefully I can figure it out.) Sound good? -89IRO

 

So after I reset the thing and drive it the next day, I scan the codes. Now did you say the first number to appear no matter what is 12? And then after the 12, it is any number (the ones that tell me what the problem(s) is/are. And the way I know that it is done giving me the codes is when it gives me a 12 again, right? Alright it's late go to go. -89IRO

 

Oh, thought of one more thing- on the link you posted above about the trouble codes, it says right above the red codes that if you disconnect it from the battery to reset it, it can throw off your radio. Now I just thought you meant that it would forget my programmed stations and time etc. but what is with this 4 digit pin code? The radio is not orgional- it is an almost brand new pioneer cd/reciever- will I have any probs. getting back up and running once I plug the battery back in? I've never heared of a "4 digit pin code" before. -89IRO

 

It's a vacuum reservoir.

 

Thanks Hawk.. Yeah, I figured it had something to do with vacuum seeing as ALL it has going into it is one vacuum line..but I was thinking to myself what it could be... 'vacuum reservoir', as in vacuum storage..and then I thought 'is it possible to store vacuum??' Lol..I didn't want to say 'vacuum reservoir' on here and have someone say 'no such thing, dummy!' So I figured it'd be better to just say I have no idea. But I DID call it the orb of power once!
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You SHOULDN'T have a problem with your stereo..not that I can see anyways. I have an aftermarket JVC and I reset the sucker all the time...it'll just wipe out your presets, preferences, settings, etc. It might kick it back into demo mode too...does that to mine. It's just a good idea to have your player's owner manual handy just in case. And yes, when you pull the codes, it always starts with a code 12, and when it's done, it repeats, so you'll see code 12 again. Every code is repeated 3 times. And yes, unplug the negative terminal for 30 secs.. If you can use any of the other two methods I said, those are better ways, but like I said, for some reason neither work for me so I have to do it the tricky way. The scanning is incredibly easy to do..I'll walk you through it. After you reset the computer via the battery cable, drive the car around until you get a Check Engine light. Get it parked and leave the key in the off position. Get a paperclip or something conductive, like wire, and look near your fuse box, to the right. There will be a port that looks sort of like a printer connection.. See how it's divided into little boxes with metal prongs in them? Connect the wire or whatever from the upper right one to the one to the immediate left of it. Make sure they make good contact. Turn the key forward but DON'T start the car! Watch the light..it'll probably blink once at start and then a pause, and then it'll begin the Code 12's. Write all the codes down...when you're done, just turn the key back to off and remove the connection between the two. Easy as that. By the way, the name of the diagnostic port is the ALDL..so if you hear people refer to the ALDL, you'll know what they're talkin about.

 

Just waiting for my dad to get home with the electrical tester so I can get the alternator posibility out of the way. Then I will Unplug the battery and if I have time I'll scan the codes but most likely I'll do that tomorrow. Why is it that in the morning when it's cold the "check engine" light always comes on but like when I drive home from school when it's warmer, like today, it didn't come on at all? It is so inconsistent. If you think it is the "vacume resivor," will scanning it tell me if that is what it is? I think I know what you're talking about- is it the circular thing under the car on the driver's side that has a thin rubber sheet for a housing, and there is one small vaume hose running to it? Alright let you know what happens tonight. (As far as the batter/alternator, reseting it, and maybe scanning.) -89IRO

 

He and I weren't saying that the Vacuum Reservoir is your problem..he was just saying that's what that funny looking metal orb is...the one on the driver's side under the car..and yeah it has one vacuum line into it. So..it acts up when it's cold out but not warm? When the engine warms up but it's still cold out, does the light stay on or go away? I assume your car is an 89 like your name...hmm... Sounds like a sensor problem if it's related to the air temperature. Ever run rich when the engine light is on, particularly after the car is warmed up?

 

Jees I've had the car so long with the engine light on, it's like I never even cared about it until now.... Usually the light is on the whole time in the morning- and even when it gets warmed up, it stays on no matter the temp outside (usually fairly cold.) Like I said today driving home it never once came on. Will the codes tell me if I'm running rich? Cause there is sometimes a little blue smoke coming out- bought I just figured that was from my new exhaust. -89IRO

 

How long have you had the exhaust on? It should only smoke for a few days after..mine smoked for about 3 or 4 days. If you're running rich, you'll blow darker smoke..kind of blackish. Your spark plugs will be dark, kinda blackish if I remember right. Blue smoke is oil. Do you have to add extra oil in between changes?

And as long as your oxygen sensor is operating properly, yes the codes will tell you if you're running rich. The O2 sensor can pick it up in the exhaust smoke and it'll throw a code.

 

The exhaust is a week old. I'm not saying there is a terrible ammount of smok (blueish) but just a little at startup. Last oil chang I think I added a quart in between.. no more that that. I mean the thing has almost 200,000 miles on it. Well write back but I have to go now, talk to you tonight.

 

Little at startup? Sounds like it's the car not the exhaust. When the exhaust is just burning off stuff inside it'll usually blow more smoke after you run it real hard or heat it up good, not starting up. Assuming you're not leaking, that quart is being burned off. Not good, but you gotta think, the car's got 200,000...and for a V8, that's a lot! The v8's tend to wear quicker than the 6's.

 

Actually for a V8, with 200,000 miles on it, adding 1 quart of oil between an oil change is nothing. -89IRO

 

Yeah I kinda figured that.. I'm happy with mine..hehe..106,000 miles and the most I've ever seen it lose between changes (3000-3500 miles) is half a quart.. Last time it lost MAYBE 1/8 a quart in 3500 miles...I was shocked. Gotta love it!!

 

I'm taking it to my mechanic tomorrow to have it scanned- no offense to your directions but I can't really trust myself. My mechanic is a good guy and I can trust him so I have no worries with getting over charged or anything. (If there's nothing for him to fix he won't even charge me.) Yep- keep fresh oil in them they never die! Oh, by the way do you run synthetic in yours? I'm running conventional Pennzoil 10w-30 right now but everyone keeps telling me how much it sucks so I think I'm gonna switch to Castrol GTX, what do you think? Any better? -89IRO

 

As long as you arent paying for the diagnostic, then go for it. I don't run synthetic..this car has never been run on synthetic and it's a little late to start that now..not worth the money. The oil..well, I put whatever the shop puts in with their oil changes.. Dunno the brand. Whatever filter they put in too... Which scares me a bit, but as of right now it's just too much of a pain in the *** to do it myself. In order to even jack the car up, first I have to scissor jack it...have to do that so I can get my floor jack under to pump it up. Pump the floor jack..and then put jack stands under. Thats what I have to do every single time...and my scissor jack sucks! Pain in the ***. And I'm picky so I know I'd buy a more expensive oil filter and better oil...so with those costs factored in, by the time I'm done with it all, I'd rather have just been lazy and paid an extra $5. Now, when I get a better jack system, and get me a big old 6 quart + bucket for the oil, it'll be another story.... So I dont know about oils..all I can say is, stay away from FRAM Oil Filters. I've heard nothing but bad stuff about them.

 

Yeah, I know, my last oil change I ran a fram, heared how bad they are then changed it. I've never seen my oil pressure so high since I switched to AC Delco. I guess I'll put GTX in it next time. Yeah I agree with you about synthetic oil- everyone says how damn good it is, but first of all these engines weren't designed for that oil and plus I'd say I'm a little too late too. Like my dad was telling me, at work they put synthetic oil in a machine that normally ran conventional oil (not exact "motor oil" but basically the same idea here) and it blew every bearing out and now it's ****. If I ever re-built and Hot Rodded my engine, I'd probably start fresh with synthetic though ( I know I don't practice what I preach.) I used to like "quick lube" shops until Jiffy Lube forgot to put gear oil back into my differential after they drained the old stuff out. -89IRO

 

Did ya sue Jiffy Lube? I'd sue em for a 4.11 POSI rear end man! Damn!! Yeah, it's not good to switch between conventional and synthetic....one or the other, although I've heard a lot of people like to start a fresh motor out on conventional and a few thousand miles after the break in period, then put synthetic in... Just seems to be popular opinion. My oil filter right now is.....I dunno, I think it says Firestone on it..it's some **** Tires Plus filter they use for every oil change.

 

No, I didn't sue them because there was no damage to it- I caught it in time. Didn't find any shavings when I opened it up and I'm not having in problems with it now, so there must have been a little oil in it to protect it for that short time- wouldn't have lasted though. Went to the mechanic today to have it scanned- The timing is off, bad EGR valve, and a sensor or two to the MAF. That's it, I'm going to take it back tormorrow to have it all fixed, that's if I can get it to throw the "check engine light" again tomorrow morning so they can scan it again to be sure (because after they scanned it today, they cleared it.) And my dad is going to come along tomorrow to also check out the new and exciting discovery of my new head gasket leak- oh the joys of spending money! Write back. -89IRO

 

Head gaskets....eek..nasty business... Ok, so you threw an EGR and an MAF code.. MAF's are fairly common failure items...dunno how much they cost cause I dont have one to replace...I dont think they're cheap but they arent bad. Although I'd buy a new one. From what I hear, people have bad luck with remanufactured MAF's..they tend to go out again. The EGR...I wonder if you have a digital or a vacuum EGR... Digital is easier to do but pricey..vacuum is the opposite. Both are items I'm sure you could do yourself. MAF you can do easily...EGR would be a tad harder. And how many degrees advanced is your timing? Should be 6 degrees.

 

I'm not sure about the timing- just know it's off and is running rich- ever since my new exhaust. Well is a head gasket leak something that will graually get worse over time? Cause right now it's not bad at all. If so, it looks like I'll be spending $2,000 to rebuild my engine. -89IRO

 

I would think that any leak will get worse over time, and gasket leaks moreso than others. Gotta yank the motor to do the head gasket I believe.... Or so I've been told....but that's by mechanics. I don't trust them!

 

I've got an extra MAF sensor I pulled from my crashed '87 IROC - PM or email me if you are interested!

see ya

 

Well, after I got it scanned the second time, the only code that showed up was EGR. The MAF code went away after he cleared it because by getting the new exhaust, that took care of it. Must have been plugged or something. It just read it the first time because it was a past code. -89IRO

 

Exhaust has got nothing to do with the MAF..the MAF is purely intake.. Something else must have made it go away....don't know what though. Adding a new sensor or something without resetting the ECM might've tricked it into throwing a bad MAF code. As for the EGR..get that replaced..the sooner the better. If your EGR is bad, getting a new one will help your performance and your car's operation more than I can say... EGR is crucial equipment.

 

I'm getting the EGR done next week, and as long as I have the intake ripped off, I will have any other sensors replaced just to be safe. Also getting timing advanced a bit to componsate for the exhaust, and getting a new radiator. Do you think if I put my K&N filters in after I get the timing fixed, they will throw it off like the exhaust did, or will they not affect it like the exhaust did? Basically asking if I should put the filters in before I take it to the mechanic? (Please say no, I'm spending enough money as it is with this radiator, EGR- j/k) -89IRO

 

None of that should affect your timing.. Computers man..they're miracles. Hell, even the computer compensates for timing changes and stuff..like with the computer, instead of running 6 degrees like you should be, the reading might jump between 18 and 22 at idle! Dont worry about it..nothing you do like that should affect your timing any. Remember, 6 degrees is your stock. Try running 8 degrees and see if it helps...just make sure it doesn't knock or ping. If it does...well, sacrifice the couple degrees, or run better gas.