Dipstick & Oil pressure gauge dont match.... help
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 804
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From: Vancouver B.C. Canada
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Dipstick & Oil pressure gauge dont match.... help
ok obviously if the dipstick is like a mile below the add mark but the oil pressure is at 400 then its probably a bad sensor, but the funny thing is, i had my car parked in the garage, (sensor worked fine when i parked it) i had just finished changing the oil, and i left it there for about 3 months. then one day it was really nice out so i got permits on it and drove it for the day. check the oil, its at add... im like. what the hell. there was no oil leaking out or anything. but the gauge said it was at maximum pressure. i dont know whats going on. Can anyone tell me how to change the sensor in the car, maybe ill try that.
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
2 easy steps:
1. Unscrew.
2. Installation is the reverse of removal.
It's right behind the distributor, a metal can about 1½" in diameter and about 2" long.
Oil fill level and oil pressure have no direct correlation. That is, as long as there's enough oil to cover the pickup, and as long as it doesn't get so low that the oil temp goes way up and it gets thin, the pump does not care how much is lurking in teh bottom of the pan.
1. Unscrew.
2. Installation is the reverse of removal.
It's right behind the distributor, a metal can about 1½" in diameter and about 2" long.
Oil fill level and oil pressure have no direct correlation. That is, as long as there's enough oil to cover the pickup, and as long as it doesn't get so low that the oil temp goes way up and it gets thin, the pump does not care how much is lurking in teh bottom of the pan.
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,416
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From: Johnstown, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 (fastburn heads, LT4 HOT cam)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
No, the oil filter is at the bottom of the engine, beside the oil pan, what RB is talking about is near the top, at the back behind the intake manifold, beside the distributor, towards the driver's side.
a metal can about 1½" in diameter and about 2" long.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 804
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From: Vancouver B.C. Canada
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
i hope you arent talking about wehre i put the damn oil in cause thats obvious...
but im going to take a look and see if i can find anything.
also whats that sensor that goes straight into the engine by the headers.
but im going to take a look and see if i can find anything.
also whats that sensor that goes straight into the engine by the headers.
Supreme Member

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 0
From: Johnstown, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 (fastburn heads, LT4 HOT cam)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
This is at the VERY back of the engine....
Are you talking near the oil filter, or on the other side? The one on the other side should be the knock sensor, and the one ly the filter should be the other oil pressure switch, the one that's for the fuel pump circuit. (Not sure that your car even has a seperate one for the fuel pump circuit)
a metal can about 1½" in diameter and about 2" long.
Are you talking near the oil filter, or on the other side? The one on the other side should be the knock sensor, and the one ly the filter should be the other oil pressure switch, the one that's for the fuel pump circuit. (Not sure that your car even has a seperate one for the fuel pump circuit)
also whats that sensor that goes straight into the engine by the headers.
Your problem is most likely one of the 2 sensors (at the rear of the intake or in the block at the driver's side rear of the engine).
Finally, if you changed the oil, haven't driven it, and there are no leaks but the dipstick reads low, I'm guessing you didn't put the proper amount of oil in the crankcase (5 quarts for oil & filter change)...
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 920
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From: Saskatchewan
Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: 454 Demon 850DP
Transmission: TH350, 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73
You do not want to put too much oil in. If you are worried about how much is in it now, drain it out and put the correct amount of oil in.
Too much oil in the crank case may result in the oil "foaming", which will cause serious trouble if left as is...The foaming action will hurt the oil's viscosity and it will not lubricate the engine as well as it should.
Don't cut corners on an oil change! Oil is the life blood of your engine and you must make sure it's the correct kind and that it's filled to the proper level. Like another post said, drain it, replace the filter and refill with 5 total quarts.
Don't cut corners on an oil change! Oil is the life blood of your engine and you must make sure it's the correct kind and that it's filled to the proper level. Like another post said, drain it, replace the filter and refill with 5 total quarts.
what is a good oil to use in a 5.7L carbed engine. i have just been running castrol GTX 30W. it seems fine, abut a couple people told me that i should not run a weight that low and that i should be putting on a better oil filter than the stock one for my engine. should i make ne changes?
5W30 is pretty much the best all around for our GM V8s. It gives a good range of protection and is not too light or heavy...10W30 is also fairly common. GM service manuals say our cars need 5W30 (at least my '86 & '92s did).
Castrol is good, also Valvoline and most other name brands are a safe bet...I've recently switched to Mobil 1 Tri-synthetic 5W30 and couldn't tell you if it works any better.
About the oil filters...all I've heard and read is to stay away from Fram. Great marketing, cheap product. I've used AC Delco and Purolator for years with no issues. I used to use Fram back in the day, but never had issues then either. The key would be to change the filter, whichever one you chose, at each oil change (spend the extra $4). I am comfortable knowing that my oil is fresh and properly filtered each time I mash the go pedal
Castrol is good, also Valvoline and most other name brands are a safe bet...I've recently switched to Mobil 1 Tri-synthetic 5W30 and couldn't tell you if it works any better.
About the oil filters...all I've heard and read is to stay away from Fram. Great marketing, cheap product. I've used AC Delco and Purolator for years with no issues. I used to use Fram back in the day, but never had issues then either. The key would be to change the filter, whichever one you chose, at each oil change (spend the extra $4). I am comfortable knowing that my oil is fresh and properly filtered each time I mash the go pedal
Last edited by Scott C; Dec 22, 2002 at 01:55 PM.
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