I've heard from some of you that using a high volume pump can be bad.... like, wasting power and other stuff.... inform me please

 

I'll put in my 2 cents worth... if this is a steet car or even a car that only sees the drap strip on a limited basis..then you dont need a high volume oil pump... i used one on my drag race only car..but it requires a larger oil pan(like a 7 quart) and of course a longer pickup tube.. i was told using one with a stock oil pan may cause it to suck the oil pan dry under high rpm runs..not good.
I suggest a high pressure oil pump.. I assume they still offer those... we called it a Z28 pump years ago.. it has increased oil pressure..not volume.. and be advised.. whenever installing a new oil pump have the pickup tube tack welded to the pump...some after market tubes used a bracket which made sure the tube stayed on..if it does not have this then get it tack welded.. I have heard many cases of a pressed in tube falling off...and that is a engine killer... hope this helps..
Snake

 

thanks man, i'll check out that 'z/28' pump... I think I saw it in jegs or sdpc catalog...

 

your welcome... and when I said Z28 pump.. I didnt mean 3RD gen cars... I think the name came from the first gen Z28 like the "69" Z28 and the 2nd gen LT1...in fact you are correct...
I just checked and SDPC still offers it for $65.00 and guess what... they also advise welding the pickup to the pump... as noted in the tech notes for the pickup screen... good luck..
Snake

 

Summit offers the M55 pump with the pick up tube welded on. All you need to do to make it high pressure is change the spring to a Mr. Gasket #26 spring. Summits caries both and you will save money too...

 

There's no need to run a high-volume oil pump on a street engine.
A stock pump can pump up to 50% of the oil up into the valve covers at high RPM.

Oil pump pressure is determined by the spring tension of the oil press bypass valve.
The white "Z/28" oil pressure relief valve spring will give up to 70 psi when used on a stock pump.

High volume/press pumps also place a much greater load on the distributor drive gear. Really bad news if your running a bronze gear on a roller cam. They also can make the press relief valve stay open which heats the oil and wastes power.

Just get a well built Sealed Power, TRW, or Mellings pump, install the "Z-28" spring, weld/braze the pick-up tube and your done.

Be sure to set the oil pick-up tube so it clears the bottom of the oil pan by 3/8 to 1/2". Modeling clay works good for checking this.

Have the spring out before welding tube to prevent heat damage.

Definately avoid pumps that use a gasket under the gear cover. They are junk.

 

i'ce used the standard m55 pump and #26 spring in a boat load of SBCs and a few 4.3s. all carry 60 psi or better running and 20-30 at idle hot. i wouldn't be welding the pick up to te pump body. i weld a brace from the pick up and bolt it to the body. lap the cover on a piece of glass maybe.

 

I thought I would add, that Jegs also sells a Pickup bracket for those who have no access to a welder. The bracket uses the existing oil pump bolts to hold the pick up on for for good!
It's about time someone made one of these...Drop on a little lock tight, and that sucker isn't moving anywhere.

Ron

 

Did a search and bringing up an old topic,

I am rebuilding my 94 350, had a question, anyone used one of these?

 

Its the retainer that jegs makes, I dont have access to a welder so this looks like a good product!!