Hello I've got a cam that's 230/230.... I'm wanting to plop my motor in tomarrow..... the thing is ...i dont have a stall converter....I have the stock one that s in there now.... will i be alright with a stock converter with this cam.. i mean i'm not giong to be running the 1/8 or 1/4 at all..(well maybe 4 or 5 times a year).......its mostly a street drivin car....


What will it be like ..driving with this cam and converter combo..


A motor swap... is expensive........takes time....

i've run myself out of $$

Rob..

 

Well because the stock converter wont stall or flash as high as that cam needs it to, I'd imagine it will be a little weak off the line and bog down. Should be ok to drive around though. Top end won't be affected and should do fine. What is the rated powerband of that cam? 2000-6000? Stock converters usually stall around 1000 rpm, that cam probobly wont even be breathing then so you have to make it thru that weak area till the power comes in.
I see you have 4.11 gears though, that will help alot, so it may not be too bad. Don't know till you try it.

 

Here's the specs

cam lift

.320 in
.320 ex


valve lift
.480
.480

lobe ctrs

107 in
111 ex

292 in
292 ex

@.50
230
230

I just want to finish this motor swap....if i need a stall i'm gonna have to wait about 2 to 3 weeks for money and shipping..time

 

Ya know ..ill be able to mash it off the line though... with a stall ...ill mash it ..and ill just roast the tires...


Rob

I'd rather have it punch me in the face.....than come in all at once.. when i mash it..

 

Your 230/230 .480/.480 cam will run fine on the street.
It will run better with a converter but.....

idle will be slightly rough with reduced idle vacuum.
You probabily will need to change to a lower rated power valve
or step up spring depending on your carb choice.

Advanceing the cam 3 to 4 deg from stock will help a bit.

stock intake centerline is 107 deg advanceing it 4 deg will be
103.

Try it like this , it wll drive fine. Hold out for a 10" 3500 stall converter. A few more $$$ but worth it.

 

3500 ...FOR STREET!!!!!???? wow.. isnt that a lot...??

hey Fbird.. I ported my manifold...and have the engine ready to go......

 

I run almost the exact same cam... except for 235 duration i/e

At one point when i broke the trans i had my old one back in with the stock converter and it was like a whole different car. The difference was huge, a dog off the line.
I now have a 2600 and would trade to a 3500 if i had the chance.

 

Thank you... think ill just stick it out...

 

A lot ???? of what.?

"The cam is a lot." A lot of shift in torque curve.
If your going to buy a converter, get the right one.
this is too critical.
A 11" 3000 stall or 12" modified (2500/2600) won't be enough.
Not worth the cash outlay.

That cam will just be coming on at 2800/3000.
You want the converter stall speed about 500 rpm above where
the cam "comes on"... That would be 3500 rpm in your case.
I've had that cam before. and have that converter in the car now. Trust me on this one. Get the 3500 stall 10" converter.
Get in touch with Competition Transmissions in North Tonawanda.
Go see him and see what he can do for ya. He is a converter expert. His stuff always works real good.
The drivability of the 11" won't be any better than the 10".
So not worth the compromise.

http://www.competitiontransmission.com/

Then get some sticky tires. Then you'll harness that beast and get good times. I'm ancious to see how those heads work for ya.
What intake did you get?

 

the stock converter will work ok, but your biggest problem aside from a bit doggy off the line will be a terrible idle and less vacuum at idle. a 3500 would be great, but if it's just a street car, that's just asking for traction problems. for street tires with that combo, try to keep it 2100 to 2400. a 2800 to 3000 would work ok, but just make more heat and try to kill the tires.

 

I'm running the Lunati Bracket master cam lists as 292/292 duration but actual is 230/230 .480 lift both sidesand 109 degrees lobe separation, so here's my personal experience:
Had a new rebuilt 700r4 with all the Trangs-Go stuff and a Coan 2800 convertor, once everything was hooked up and running right, I had to adjust the idle speed up to 1200 rpm at idle, when I'd slip it into gear the revs would go straight down to 500, yes it sounded meaner than hell just lumpin away, but it'd also load up on me. The convertor was'nt loose enough on the bottom end to allow slippage and the drivetrain was basically tryin to shut down the motor by putting a load on it, instead of slipping. Did it work, yes, but it also sucked, cause like I said the engine would load up on me at long stop lights, plus brakes became an issue at certain times, especially if I just hopped in the car and took off-hardly any brakes, once running they were fine. Switched to a TH350 and a 3500 stall, pulling down the motor is'nt quite as bad, I was able to lower the idle speed to 1000rpm, but would still prefer the convertor a little looser at the bottom end. If you buy a convertor from a company that'll make it to your application, it'll run like a daily driver stop light to stop light, but you'll have the added advantage of higher stall speed/aka flash point when you want it. My friend's street/strip 70 chevelle has a 396cid and he had BTE make him a convertor based on ALL his cars specs, cost all of $400 (nice thing is if you install it and it does'nt do what you expected, you can send it back and they'll retune it for free, you have to pay shipping naturally.) On the street you'd never know it did'nt have a factory convertor, he's got a fairly big cam in it, but it slips enough so as not to bog the engine when placed into gear, as soon as he touches the accelerator the car moves forward, BUT as he showed us one morning before loading up to head to the track, he pulled the car into the front yard-covered in dew, with his slicks, and the car would'nt turn a tire at 4500 rpm with his foot on the brakes. Off the shelf convertors are alright to a point, but for the few extra bucks it costs to get one custom made I'm sold on it. Just cause I have a 3500 stall does'nt mean the car won't move till 3500, it takes off at 1800 just like the 2800 stall did, just has a higher flash point. BTW, I got better short times with the TH350/3500 stall then I did with the steep 1st geared 700r4 and 2800 stall, went from consistent 1.95 w/ 700 to consistent low 1.82 with the 350.

 

I'm glad I asked that question...I GREATLY appreciate your input guys...

how much rump is there to this cam??? I want something that sounds pretty aggressive.....

This is my first build up so i'm pretty much still into wanting a big cam..and the sound etc.......

I'm sure it will wear off..... Just gotta get it outta me......

Rob..

 

Now how do you drive with a stall.//????

can I mash it off the line ?? I mean stop light...

will I be able to creep down the streets..

Everytime i hear a car coming down the street after a car show i get shivers.......the engine is running about 2000 RPM and the car is going like 10 MPH...I JUST LOVE THAT.... of coarse the sound of the blower is quite convincing too !!!


Rob

 

with a "good" stall, it will drive just like what u have now, but, when u mash it from a dead stop, it'll flash to whatever the stall is rated for and stall there until the car "catches up to that point-then the tach will start to rise again." So basically the convertor is gonna slip a little till the cars speed catches up with the slipage in the convertor. That's why a car with a high stall/flash point sounds like she's ready to blow from a dead stop; then mash, and it's really not going that fast yet. You don't want one that slips too much on the bottom end either, cause then with all the slipping going on it'll build ALOT of heat and shorten tranny life unless you take the proper precautions to cool the tranny fluid right.
This was my first cam too, and it was neat lumpin at the stop light, and guys that knew engines knew something was better than stock under the hood. I went through a TON of money and swaps trying to get the whole drivetrain combo I have to work together though-and I'm still not there. So it might seem bad *** at first, but until EVERYTHING is matched to work together, you won't know the true potential. I got a few more things I'm gonna try to break into the 12's next season on my low compression motor.

 

You drive it the same way as now.
Just that if you floor the gas, it will spool up to the stall speed
and take off. This is how a stall converter allows you to bypass the weak low rpm range for better acceleration at WOT.
During low speed light acceleration from a stop, you'll notice
a mushy feeling as the motor reves higher relative to the acceleration, till you get up to speed. Compared to what your used to now. Your tach will hug the 2000/2500 rpm range instead of the 1500/2000 rpm range during light acceleration.
This looser coupling takes a few weeks to get used to.
but don't sweat it.

 

Get a torque convertor from bowtie overdrives for 150 bucks 2200 stall. I Have this in my truck
That cam your installing is still on the conservative side.

http://www.700r4.com/getpart.asp?cat...nverters&id=56


Edit:
Opps I thought you had a Hyd roller cam The reason I shot my mouth off right away is because I have a Comp 305 series .510/.520 " Lsa 114*
That flat tappet Hyd may be a little lopy with 110 lsa. You'll definately need at least 2800 stall