ok heres the deal...i just fi9nished the cam swap...i havent even done the break in but the engine will barely run..distributer is in right and stuff.....i think its the #7 intake.........the rocker arm barly gets pushed up and down but i dont think the cam is rounded off cuz that is what happened to my old on and it doesnt see,m the same....could it be a collasped lifter??.,,,,i know tyhe pushrod isnt bent....is there any way to just buy 1 lifter.....id hate to buy $60 worth of lifters...this thing just keeps adding up...after alll the motor only has like 2 min on it

 

ttt...

 

Flat tappet hydraulics? Yes, you can but as many as you want.

 

by any chance do you know where....napa......autobarn/carquest.....?

 

you can buy single ones from autozone. let the car run a few mins. the lifter may need to build up. best of luck, tom

 

Try adjusting it with the engine running: loosen it until it clatters if it doesn't already, tighten it until it just barely shuts up; might want to do the same to all the others; then after you've done them all, turn off the motor, and tighten them all ¼ turn more.

 

the valve lash was fine.....the problem is that rocker moves a lot less than the others....so far i have found different people opinions.....
1. sticking valve....
2. lifter is oiled up yet or collasped
3. rocker stud pulled out

just out o0f curiosity...how would you fix a sticky valve

 

my guess is you have the timing off, even if you think the distributor is in "right and stuff" as you say or you have the valve(s) lashed incorrectly. if the valve is stuck hit it with a hammer.

 

Valves rarely "stick". There's hundreds of pounds of pressure on them from their springs (we hope).

Lifters rarely "collapse". That's a non-existent condition that people have invented to describe "there's something wrong with the valve train but I don't understand how it works so I'll just blame it on something I can't see". And even if the lifter's hydraulic chamber was entirely unable to hold any oil at all, the total travel of a lifter is only about .100", which would not cause the valve motion to be reduced enough to be easily visible to the naked eye. It certainly wouldn't make the rocker "barely get pushed up and down".

You might have a pulled-out stud. If so, it will probably be noticeably higher than the others, with more threads showing above the rocker nut than all the others. You might be able to get it to adjust properly, but then after a few minutes of running, it will just pull out some more and once again be improperly lashed. And if you keep doing that, eventually the stud will pull all the way out, and you'll have a gusher of anti-freeze inside your valve cover. If yours isn't acting like that, then that's probably not the problem.

A broken valve spring will cause the valve not to return to the all the way closed position. And of course it will be impossible to lash the rocker properly. Since of course you replaced the valve springs like you're supposed to when you put in a new cam (you did, didn't you??) then that shouldn't be the problem. On the other hand, if you just slid a new cam with nice high lift and aggressive ramps under a bunch of worn-out stock garbage grocery-cart valve springs that were barely adequate to control peanut cam motion even when brand-new, one of which was already broken like they often are, then you still have the same problem you had before, except now it's even worse.

So, check that valve spring, make sure you didn't put in a broken one when you replaced them during your cam swap.

 

wow, i've done several cam swaps/motor rebuilds with new cam's and never got new springs. (i guess i'm just lucky). as far as a lifter bleeding down, i've had it happen to me twice (both were on 3.1 liter v6 motors, but i didn't think they were that much different than a v8 motor). the lifters that is. maybe i just blamed it on the lifter because i didn't know what was wrong with the car. best of luck, tom

 

ok, everything was new...and matched to the cam...i think its allright now....but illkeep checking and pulling the valve cover to see if it gets loose again.....my friends older bros friend is the manager of a machine shop so i get everything done for free...i just hate to rip it part again if it is a pulled out stud

 

If it comes loose again just hammer it back down and drill it for a pin. Your friend's brother will know how to do it and it doesn't take long or cost much money

 

just outta curiosity...do rocker arm nuts have anything special...like locker things or something.....cuz i lost 2 and replaced them with normal nuts....and those are the ones imhaving poblems with

 

YES, the rocker are nuts are special. they are squeezed at the top of the nut to keep the nut from backing off. i bet your nuts are backing off! (pun intended) best of luck, tom.....now go buy rocker arm nuts!!!!!!

 

lol.....i called my friend and he is giving me some...hmmmm,....i should go bang my head on the wall and un dumb myself :lala: