battery or alternator
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 128
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From: Corpus Christi Texas
Car: 1990 rs, pride and joy
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: t-5
battery or alternator
I was driving yesterday and i turened on my windsheild wipers and, at the time my system was playing, and the wipers came on and the system died. Now i noticed that all the guages where dimming and my headlights where too. So we got back to the house and it wouldn't start, we had to jump it, so is this the battery or alternator. Also on the way home car died again when i pushed on the brakes.
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 634
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From: Fort Meade MD
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4 with corvette servo
SOunds like your altenator won't handle your system. It is your altenator because, once you start your car the altenator will supply the power to your car. Your car ran just long enough to drain your battery then shut off.
I swear I don't know what's worse. Poorly installed audio systems, or poorly installed remote start/alarm systems. You'll need to review all the main power connections (that includes grounds) to try to determine the problem.
You'll also want to monitor the alternator power output under the same conditions. Check not only DC voltage, but AC voltage as well, since heavy alternator load will cause a heavier output pulse from the alternator. This heavy DC output pulse can emulate an AC wave, which can corrupt any system operation. If you have intermittent wipers, the output spike could potentially trigger the circuit which drives the wipers in this mode.
You'll also want to monitor the alternator power output under the same conditions. Check not only DC voltage, but AC voltage as well, since heavy alternator load will cause a heavier output pulse from the alternator. This heavy DC output pulse can emulate an AC wave, which can corrupt any system operation. If you have intermittent wipers, the output spike could potentially trigger the circuit which drives the wipers in this mode.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 391
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From: Sacramento,Ca.
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 355 C.I.
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Say what... Man that's deep..... Before you get too carried away, it's the alternator... High powered amps cause a lot more load on the system which will make you go threw alternators faster. If the main power to the amps is shorted it will blow the alternator. The supply voltage must be fused at the battery. Besure that it is, that's all. Replace the alternator.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 391
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From: Sacramento,Ca.
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 355 C.I.
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Mine is a rebuilt from napa. Before that is was a rebuilt from G.M. , Before that who knows.
Multiple amps running at one time = Multiple Alternators...
5000 watts worth at one time.
Recommend stay away from auto zone. I get charging system and starting system checks all the time. Customers complaint, " I just replaced my alternator with a new one and it doesn't work "
Fact was it was a rebuilt from autozone and it's still bad.... LOL
Good Luck....
Multiple amps running at one time = Multiple Alternators...
5000 watts worth at one time.
Recommend stay away from auto zone. I get charging system and starting system checks all the time. Customers complaint, " I just replaced my alternator with a new one and it doesn't work "
Fact was it was a rebuilt from autozone and it's still bad.... LOL
Good Luck....
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 128
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From: Corpus Christi Texas
Car: 1990 rs, pride and joy
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: t-5
so how would i check to see if ther is a short? i now by just checking all the wires by sight but is the any way else?
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 391
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From: Sacramento,Ca.
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 355 C.I.
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
A short in the amp wire ? That should have a 30 amp fuse at the battery. I'm sure it probley isn't blown.... if it were then you'd have a short in that wire.
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raymondandretti
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