ok, my egr valve went out or bad, whatever, well i was wondering if i even need it. if not how do i bypass it and if i do how do i install the new one? step by step would be nice for me. and would the egr going bad make the engine run alittle hotter than usual?
thanks, brian

 

You disable the EGR in the prom, you need to burn a new prom with out it enabled.

 

The ECM has no way of DIRECTLY knowing if the EGR is functional but it can INFER it from looking at other sensors. Usually a steady throttle highway cruise for several minutes will pop a check engine light if you just unplug it (but not always). Best to deactivate it in the PROM programming.

 

The EGR has direct feedback in digital EGRs (if th eload coils aren't present, you'll get a hardware scan fault on startup), and a diagnostic temperature switch on TPI engines. (Ford cars actually have a linear sensor to determine position.)

Unplug the temp switch on your TPI and see what I mean.

 

well i changed the plugs alittle bit ago and they were friggin terrible. i also plugged the egr vacume line and it seems to be doing better but it still doesnt sound or drive the same as before. anyone have any ideas on what else could be wrong? i'm getting ready to go to mexico today and wont really be able to do anything with it untill wednesday, but all help will be appreciated. my engine is 350 tpi in a 92 z28. i'm stuck on this one. i already took it to the chevrolet dealership here and they were doing the same thing i am, a guesing game, but my way is a lot cheaper. but thanks for the help.

 

you may not want to hear this, but the eger valve is cheap to replace

My recommendation is get a new valve, a new gasket, and replace the sucker...

much less confusion and if your car isnt running right still.......then it wasnt the valve

blain

 

Does replacing the egr require pulling the upper plenum off?

 

yep and the throttle body.