HELP QUICK! Broke off an alternator bolt in the head!
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Springfield, MO, USA
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
HELP QUICK! Broke off an alternator bolt in the head!
My alternator bracket broke where it mounts to the water pump and in the process, the lower alternator bolt broke off in the head. I didn't realize this until just now when I tried to reinstall everything. Today is Sunday and tomorrow I gotta get back to work so I need help QUICK.
The bracket is fixed now, I just need a QUICK solution to fix the other problem without taking the head off. I don't have time for that. Is there another type of bracket I can buy that doesn't use that particular bolt hole in the head? I thought about switching the two heads but A. that would require setting the valve lash again (genius idea by GM, why couldn't they just put stud mount rockers like ford and dodge) and B. that would also require another set of head gaskets ... not to mention the PITA that it is to remove the TPI and Intake to get the heads off.
There's gotta be another solution ... PLEASE HELP!
The bracket is fixed now, I just need a QUICK solution to fix the other problem without taking the head off. I don't have time for that. Is there another type of bracket I can buy that doesn't use that particular bolt hole in the head? I thought about switching the two heads but A. that would require setting the valve lash again (genius idea by GM, why couldn't they just put stud mount rockers like ford and dodge) and B. that would also require another set of head gaskets ... not to mention the PITA that it is to remove the TPI and Intake to get the heads off.
There's gotta be another solution ... PLEASE HELP!
Last edited by 86TpiTransAm; Mar 16, 2003 at 01:23 PM.
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From: Arthur, Ontario, Canada
Car: 92Z28, 99SS, 83Z28 & 86GTA
Engine: 421, LS1, 327Turbo & 383
Transmission: T-56, 4L60E, T5 & 4L60
Axle/Gears: 4:10, 3:42, 2:73 & 3:27
I am no mechanic but I got a set of reverse drills that i use to get the broken bolts out. Depending how deep it is u might be able to use a punch set. Not sure what the mechanics do. Hope that helps.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,536
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From: Springfield, MO, USA
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Thanks ... not sure if I can fit a drill in there but I think I probably could.
Do the reverse drill bits work well?? How exactly do you use them?? The bolt isn't stuck ... it just broke because when the bracket broke at the water pump, everything swung forward and snapped the bolt. I think if I can get a drill, some reverse bits, and pray alot I might be able to get it done.
Wonder where I can get a replacement bolt on a sunday. Actually I think there's plenty of thread left, I had to use 3 washers before anyhow because of the way these heads are made.
Any other ideas from anyone?
(Just not my weekend, yesterday the passenger side caliper locked up and then they gave me the drivers side as a replacement ... now this.)
Do the reverse drill bits work well?? How exactly do you use them?? The bolt isn't stuck ... it just broke because when the bracket broke at the water pump, everything swung forward and snapped the bolt. I think if I can get a drill, some reverse bits, and pray alot I might be able to get it done.
Wonder where I can get a replacement bolt on a sunday. Actually I think there's plenty of thread left, I had to use 3 washers before anyhow because of the way these heads are made.
Any other ideas from anyone?
(Just not my weekend, yesterday the passenger side caliper locked up and then they gave me the drivers side as a replacement ... now this.)
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Springfield, MO, USA
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
What does anyone think about using a dab of red lock-tite on the center of the bolt and attaching it to the piece that's still in there just so I can get it out?? I was thinking about that but I'm worried that if I get too much lock-tite in there then it could deepen my problems even more. Right now I'm stuck here at my apartment until my friend gets back to give me a ride.
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From: PA
Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
The loc-tite won't work. Centerpunch the stud and drill it about 1/8", then step up to 3/16" or so and use a screw extractor (Ezy-Out) to back it out (Hopefully)
Make sure to center punch it well, in the center... Dont try to drill w/o doing this or it will just booger it up even worse. And don't snap a drill bit or easy out in there as well...
Worse comes to worse, you can weld a small bolt onto the broke spot and back it out that way....
Make sure to center punch it well, in the center... Dont try to drill w/o doing this or it will just booger it up even worse. And don't snap a drill bit or easy out in there as well...
Worse comes to worse, you can weld a small bolt onto the broke spot and back it out that way....
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From: Springfield, MO, USA
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Thanks for the reply.
I hope the E-Z out works because the welding idea won't work since the bolt broke off IN the head .... I'd says about 1/8" in. Maybe J-B Weld but I doubt that would even work. I'd probably end up welding the entire bolt in there and then I'd be really screwed.
I hope the E-Z out works because the welding idea won't work since the bolt broke off IN the head .... I'd says about 1/8" in. Maybe J-B Weld but I doubt that would even work. I'd probably end up welding the entire bolt in there and then I'd be really screwed.
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From: Derbyshire, United Kingdom
Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
I get a nut that is big enough to thread on to the broken bolt (if you could get it on!)-or slightly bigger, and I then MIG weld it to the bolt remains through the middle of the nut. It is then easy to back it out.
But, the bolt shouldn't be tight at all if the head has broken off, so all the above mentioned methods may be more convenient this time.
Good luck.
Andy.
But, the bolt shouldn't be tight at all if the head has broken off, so all the above mentioned methods may be more convenient this time.
Good luck.
Andy.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Springfield, MO, USA
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Well I know it's not in there tight because it didn't break from being stuck.
The only problem is getting ahold of what's in there. The nut idea won't work because the bolt broke IN the head ..... about 1/8" in like I mentioned earlier. I'm still waiting for my friend to get back and he's really pissing me off because it's nearly 4 and I have to get this done so I can get back to work tomorrow.
The only problem is getting ahold of what's in there. The nut idea won't work because the bolt broke IN the head ..... about 1/8" in like I mentioned earlier. I'm still waiting for my friend to get back and he's really pissing me off because it's nearly 4 and I have to get this done so I can get back to work tomorrow.
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Car: '84 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: th2004r
the "normal" way to do it is to drill a hole in the center about 5/16 or something(after center punching it). get an extractor to fit in the hole you just drilled about 1/4inch and turn it untill it bites and turns the bolt out. thats pretty quick and easy if you have a good bit and get it in the center. drill a small pilot hole first to help get it in the center and make the drilling quicker.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,536
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From: Springfield, MO, USA
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
SUCCESS!!
Finally got it done last night. First I tried an Easy Out ... drilled a 5/32 hole as directed by the easy out package, put the easy out in and it acted like it was going to work but it didn't. I ended up drilling the hole out with a 5/16 bit which was kinda scary because I kept worrying about drilling too far into the head but I didn't. Then my friend took the 3/8 tap and tapped the threads for me and presto! All done with the head still on. I was pretty impressed since this was the first time I ever had to do this.
I'm just glad it's done. Thanks again for all the help guys.
Finally got it done last night. First I tried an Easy Out ... drilled a 5/32 hole as directed by the easy out package, put the easy out in and it acted like it was going to work but it didn't. I ended up drilling the hole out with a 5/16 bit which was kinda scary because I kept worrying about drilling too far into the head but I didn't. Then my friend took the 3/8 tap and tapped the threads for me and presto! All done with the head still on. I was pretty impressed since this was the first time I ever had to do this.

I'm just glad it's done. Thanks again for all the help guys.
Just a tip in case something like that happens again. I'm an aircraft mechanic and I use EZ outs on a daily basis. The best way to use one, is drill a hole as close to the middle of the bolt as possible. Use some vise grips to hold the EZ out. Grip it tight as hell too. Then, tap on the EZ out with a hammer while you turn the vise grips. You can't just put the EZ out in the hole. Doesn't work that good. Those things can take quite a bit of abuse. Don't slam them with a hammer, but give it a good tapping while you're turning your vise grips! I've removed hundreds of stuck screws and bolts this way. Matt
I use Ridgid screw extractors where I work. They are splined
and don't spread the bolt when you put the torque to them.
The company buys them, so I have no idea what they cost. The
#5 set would be great to have at my garage. The smallest one
in a #3 set takes a 3/16" hole.
http://www.ridgid.com/index3.html
I have also used S-K and Lisle torx bits for extractors with good
results.
and don't spread the bolt when you put the torque to them.
The company buys them, so I have no idea what they cost. The
#5 set would be great to have at my garage. The smallest one
in a #3 set takes a 3/16" hole.
http://www.ridgid.com/index3.html
I have also used S-K and Lisle torx bits for extractors with good
results.
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