The power door locks do actuate--and I can see the lock indicators move on both doors. However, let's say that both doors are unlocked--hitting the lock button will move both lock indicators just enough so that the doors *don't* lock and so that I can see a little bit of the red strip. I have to press lock several times before the doors actually lock. And the same thing goes in the opposite direction. I'm thinking that all I need to do is go in and lube the solenoid; correct me if there's more to it.

Anyway, I just finished yanking off the door trim, and I'm looking at where the door lock solenoid is attached to the door... first of all, the door is covered in plastic (which I assume is there for a reason, thus I probably shouldn't do like I want to and just cut it), plus the solenoid appears to be rivited to the door. Am I going to have to drill that thing out just to lubricate it? How will I put it back?

Also... the main reason that I took the door apart was actually to try to quiet it down; it really likes to rattle when I go over bumps. I'm not just talking rattle from loose door hinges (which, BTW, I will be replacing shortly), but rattling from loose door trim, window rattling, and rattling from a loose plastic upper trim. The rubber/felt window guide strips (that go along the inside and outside of the window) have worn and are stiff, and I think that might be letting the window wobble in the door. Can anyone offer me some suggestions as to how I can quiet this door down?

Thanks

 

if you remove the rivits a tool to replace them will set you back several dollars. i doubt if lube will help. if i had the part out i'd replace it. look for any place that may allow the rod to bind. as for the window there are several stops and guides inside the door, you ought to be able to move the guides to tighten the window up and stop the rattle.

 

The problem you describe seems to be common to older thirdgens. People, including me, have had good luck cleaning with WD-40 and lubing with white grease (mine still functions after several years). By the way, the plastic you mention is the water seal. Pull it away from the door to access the door's interior and stick it back in place afterward. Check this link for info about rattles:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=124084

JamesC

 

The problem usually isn't the power door lock solenoids themselves, but rather the lock mechanism in the door. I've fixed many cars (including my own) by taking the mechanism out, tanking it to remove the accumulated decades of road schmutz, and re-lubing everything inside it with white lithium. Some cars, where the power locks didn't seem to work at all, they miraculously began working perfectly after that.

A solenoid is about the dumbest piece of electrical equipment that there is. It's a coil of wire that creates a magnetic field when you pass currrent through it. As long as the amount of wire doesn't change (pretty hard for it to do that) and the material in the armature doesn't lose its magnetism (it's pretty hard for that to happen too, it's iron after all) then there's nothing wrong with it. Instead, the problem is that the thing it's supposed to be moving, requires more force than the solenoid can generate. So leave the solenoid alone and fix the problem, don't try to attack the symptom. You don't cure a person with pneumonia by giving them cough syrup: same principle.

 

Hmm... methinks this might end up being a bigger job than I had anticipated.

I can definately see how the connecting rods would cause some rattle. I could probably stand to replace the foam that is near the rod guides. But it seems like, as far as the rods go, most of the rattle must be concentrated near the door latching assembly (that's where all of the rods go). Also, since RB suggests that the latching assembly might also be responsible for the power door locks not locking, I have another good reason to investigate that. Which brings up the question: How do I get to all of that? I can clearly see the three torx screws from the outside of the door that holds the assembly in, but it doesn't seem like it's going to go too far with all of those rods in it. Do I just reach around and disconnect the rods before I actually pull the assembly?

Also, there is a lot of flop in the outside door handles, and I can hear those rattle from the inside. I can pull directly upward on the handles (not like you're opening the door but directly upward), and I can move them from side to side. The driver's side is mostly just flop on the part of the handle that you pull, and the passenger's side is basicall the same, except it's also loose on the door. I'm sure that tightening the inside bolts would help some (although I'm not too sure how I'd get to them with the window in), but that wouldn't fix most of the flop which is in the handles themselves. Is the only fix for that just new handles?

I might end up post-poning this if I need to be buying some new parts--I know that I at least need new rubber window guides (those guides that seal against the window as it goes up and down), and I don't even know where to get those. But at least I can have the stuff on hand before trying to tackle this...

Thanks

 

You're right, the 3 torx screws are what holds the latch mechanism in. There are 4 rods that connect various things to it: manual lock, power lock, exterior door handle, and interior door handle. The clips that hold them on are a real PITA, but once you figure out how they work, they're not insurmountable.

The only way to fix loose door handles (a universal fact of life in these cars) is to replace them. You can get to their hardware with the window in, IIRC; rolled all the way up.

The exterior window felt is nearly impossible to change with the window in the door. THe interior felt is part of the plastic trim across the top of the door panel. AFAIK you can still get all that from GM. It's not cheap.

In case you can't tell, I've got some BTDT on my doors....

 

I think I'm going to put my door back together, then, until I can get the parts. So far, it appears that I'm looking at needing:

* New handles
* Exterior window felt
* Interior window felt assemblies

I think that I'd be hard-pressed to find any of these items in good quality at any of the junkyards here, but I guess I'll try before I go to GM for them. Hopefully, they won't vary too much (or at all) from year to year for any thirdgen (Pontiacs included); correct me if I'm wrong.

On a side note, I find it somewhat odd that the doors on my '88 Camaro (with ~132K miles) are rock solid--no rattles, the hinges are great, the handles are tight, and the felt is even in decent condition. Then, on my '89 IROC (with 117K miles), both doors have problems with all of the above. And neither of the cars have really been visually abused. Strange...

Anyway, thanks for all of the suggestions/advice! Looks like I'll be living with a noisy car until school is out, though...

 

Anyone else with this problem...there have been several posts on here about the same thing...send me a mail. I found the root cause and even improved it

 

I've already posted this in another thread because I was asked about it. However, this thread is actually more relevant.
I would have just pasted all the info, but on the other thread the images didn't show up, so you'll have to download the word.doc attachment.

thanks, and hope it's helpful.

adam

 

That looks like a VERY useful DIY repair doc. Your kinematics reasoning for the locking problem sounds right on for an almost three decades old and dirty mechanism. I was attributing it more to electrical resistance because I was barely getting 10.5 volts to the solenoid on the passenger door which is the only one I have the problem with. Your analysis sounds like the root cause.

Thanx,
M

 

these cars rattle like a coffee can with a few rocks in it!! and the doors are usually needing serious help when we buy them .BUT their not that complicated to repair.and all the parts are still easy to get. AND its amazing what a difference it makes when you get them finished.dont be intimidated by what you see .its not a big deal

 

Some doors rattle and others don't. A lot of it has to do with the door handle spring and also the door latch at the door jam. You can check the source of the clanking by holding onto different parts while shutting the door to see if the noise goes away.

The power locks can be dragged down by the door panel interface as well. It may not be the only cause but can contribute to it. One of mine worked fine with the panel off but whenever I installed the panel the lock didn't work as well.

 

I used a piece of 5/16" hose, cut down one side and put it around the rods" where they make contact with the inner door metal. Instantly cured 80% of the rattle in the door. I did generously lube it with lithium grease to make sure they slide easy. My only issue is how the hell do you get to the mechanism up by the door lock/handle? I can barely see inside the door as it is and have no idea what I'm "Feeling" for if I'm looking for nuts/screws etc. Any help with that?

 

Hi, Low voltage certainly could be a problem, but even at 10.5 volts it should work. I checked the voltage first thing before I did any mechanical work...i don't recall the number, but again, 1.5 volt drop from 12 is not too much.
Check it again while pressing the lock button. If there was too much resistance in the line before the solenoid you could be losing more than that.
Good luck.