pull down hatch motors are retarded
pull down hatch motors are retarded
ok, i tried this question a while ago and i got no real response, maybe now i will.
ok i took apart the motor because it was just sitting there whirring, i found the cool little plastic screw which had some of the little teeths on it ground away. i replaced that but now im getting a lot of resistance from it trying to set it up how it should be so that it will catch when its supposed to, does anyone have a picture or diagram or even a verbal description of how this things supposed to be set up??? its killing me, i cant wash my car and it looks like crap
ok i took apart the motor because it was just sitting there whirring, i found the cool little plastic screw which had some of the little teeths on it ground away. i replaced that but now im getting a lot of resistance from it trying to set it up how it should be so that it will catch when its supposed to, does anyone have a picture or diagram or even a verbal description of how this things supposed to be set up??? its killing me, i cant wash my car and it looks like crap
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
If you mean adjusting it so it closes all the way..... that's easy. 
What I do is bolt it in, but I don't crank on the bolts. I leave them loose enough to move, but tight enough that they stay put once I have the motor assembly where it needs to be.
I purposely set it high, close the hatch, let it pull down until it shuts itself. Then I push (or sit) on it until it forces the unit down.
I open it, then I tap on it with a 22 oz hammer to get it to go down another 1/8" or so, that way it actually seals the hatch.
Of course I'm picky and I don't stop there. I also have to make sure the 3 pc spoiler lines up or else I won't sleep very well that night.
Once you get it where it needs to be, crank on your bolts and get them tight.
If you're talking about something else, then I guess I just wasted about 5 minutes of my time.

What I do is bolt it in, but I don't crank on the bolts. I leave them loose enough to move, but tight enough that they stay put once I have the motor assembly where it needs to be.
I purposely set it high, close the hatch, let it pull down until it shuts itself. Then I push (or sit) on it until it forces the unit down.
I open it, then I tap on it with a 22 oz hammer to get it to go down another 1/8" or so, that way it actually seals the hatch.
Of course I'm picky and I don't stop there. I also have to make sure the 3 pc spoiler lines up or else I won't sleep very well that night.

Once you get it where it needs to be, crank on your bolts and get them tight.
If you're talking about something else, then I guess I just wasted about 5 minutes of my time.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 0
From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
I don't know.
Perhaps if you would write using proper grammar it would help?
You're asking how the motor itself goes back together?
Are you saying it's not actually grabbing the hatch, or it isn't pulling it down all the way?
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "resistance"?
Perhaps if you would write using proper grammar it would help?

You're asking how the motor itself goes back together?
Are you saying it's not actually grabbing the hatch, or it isn't pulling it down all the way?
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "resistance"?
ok heres the deal, theres that little peice that plugs into the motor part and then has a little switchy deal thats pulled up and down by the plate moving up and down, i figured that part out well enough, but i dont know how it was actually set up before i tore it off, so now i can manually switch the little switch and it will come up, ill close the hatch and it will pull it down, ill walk to the front of the car and hear THUNK THUNK THUNK THUNK like its trying to pull it down more, it did that once and i readjusted it, now it wont even come up, thats what im trying to figure out, how is the motor and all its components supposed to be when the deals in the up position like the hatcher is open, yeah... if my grammar is still bad...i dont know what to do....
oh yeah and to the non pull down deal, what kind of set up would i need that would still use my key??? anyone got an idea thats not going to be like, completely fabbing it me self? i just want to bolt it down now...im so fed up with the damned thing, i dont care if it does that fancy pull down anymore i dont get that drunk that i dont know not to slam it hard enough to shatter the glass or whatever, and its got shocks...why did they put that thing on there...why...
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It's been a while since I messed with the trunk latch, but if memory serves, the lock and the latch are seperate, connected by means of a cable. Undo the cable either from the latch or from the lock, and replce the entire unit.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
From: Sharonville OH
Car: 98 Z28 vert
Engine: LS1
Transmission: automagic
Axle/Gears: 2.73 - boo racing yay MPG
here is a pic that describes what is backwards. The swich box isn't backwards it is the metal thingy that pulls the latch doun. the tab has to be facing the sw box as it flips the lever to shut the motor off.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
From: Sharonville OH
Car: 98 Z28 vert
Engine: LS1
Transmission: automagic
Axle/Gears: 2.73 - boo racing yay MPG
you are right about the swich box. I have no Idear what I was thinking when I posted that. I ment the rod that pulls the latch down. just look at the pic I posted.
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