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New tranny in, Car won't start

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Old May 21, 2003 | 04:56 PM
  #1  
jfreeman74's Avatar
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
New tranny in, Car won't start

I put my new Probuilt 700R4 in today. Install is complete but now my car won't start. I think my timing is screwed up. Will this cause the car not to start. When I was removing the old tranny I was going to pull the distributer because someone told me I had to. Anyway, I had loosened the distributer but never pulled it out. When I removed the transmission I turned the crank manually to get to the converter bolts but I forgot to tighten the distributer down first. What can I do to get the timing close enough to start the car? Or if anyone has any other ideas why it won't start I would love to hear them. I checked the fuel pressure and it was okay. It does drop rapidly but I believe I have some leaking injectors. Whole different problem.
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Old May 21, 2003 | 07:02 PM
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Also, when I try to crank it, the motor does turn over but just acts like it's not getting any fire.
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Old May 21, 2003 | 08:06 PM
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8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Click the "search" button, type in "how to find TDC".

Start from there, could be you're off just a little, or the distributor came out of the gear to get really lost.
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Old May 21, 2003 | 08:28 PM
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Car: 1991 Corvette Coupe
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/4L60 same trans different name
all you should have had to do is remove the distributor cap, not the whole thing
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Old May 21, 2003 | 08:52 PM
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Double check and make sure all your distributor wires are connected.
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Old May 21, 2003 | 11:16 PM
  #6  
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Steve you called this one. One of the 3 connectors for the coil was not connected all the way. It works like a champ. Damn this Pro-Built tranny and 2800 stall are awesome. Man what a difference.
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Old May 22, 2003 | 12:00 AM
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From: B'ville, WV
Car: 2002 Formula Firebird
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Why remove the cap? I didnt.
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Old May 22, 2003 | 05:33 AM
  #8  
1991tealRSt-topGuy's Avatar
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Car: 1991 Corvette Coupe
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/4L60 same trans different name
mine would have hit the firewall
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Old May 22, 2003 | 12:34 PM
  #9  
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I didn't have to pull the distributer cap off mine. It would have been fine. Didn't find out that until I had pulled the tranny. My timing is still off because the car stalls at idle in park and studders at light throttle in drive. I just turned the distributer to the general area that it was in before. I am going to get a timing light today to set it correctly. I know that stock is 6* advanced. What are you guys running? I have heard some people running 10*. What do you guys think would be a good starting point for my setup? I will test different timing settings at the dyno next month. Just wondering what a good starting point would be.
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Old May 22, 2003 | 07:55 PM
  #10  
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From: Pittsfield, MA
Try 8.
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Old May 22, 2003 | 11:37 PM
  #11  
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
The timing is set to 8*. The idle is still not good. I have tried different timing settings. I set up the TPS. I tried to set the minimum idle but everytime I tried to start the car with the IAC connector off the car would not start. I think I am disconnecting the right one(right below the TPS). I went ahead and adjusted the screw and I have to idle at 1200 just to keep it from stalling. Is my IAC screwed up or is it and ignition/timing problem?
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Old May 23, 2003 | 12:17 AM
  #12  
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From: South Texas, RGV
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 LO3
Transmission: 700-R4
Originally posted by jfreeman74
I tried to set the minimum idle but everytime I tried to start the car with the IAC connector off the car would not start. I think I am disconnecting the right one(right below the TPS). I went ahead and adjusted the screw and I have to idle at 1200 just to keep it from stalling. Is my IAC screwed up or is it and ignition/timing problem?
The IAC being disconnected should not keep the car from starting. I have my IAC permanantly disconnected, and have had no problems. it idles in P at 900rpm and in D at 600rpm, so Im guessing your problem is some thing else.

BTW are you going by the stock tach?
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Old May 23, 2003 | 01:13 PM
  #13  
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I am going by the tach, which was working fine before. But I am mainly going by the way the engine sounds.
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Old May 23, 2003 | 02:14 PM
  #14  
8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Just to make sure, you are disconnecting the EST bypass connector when setting the timing?

If so, then I'd find TDC for #1, and then take a look at the line on the HB, make sure you're within a few degrees of "0" on the timing tab. The outer ring may have slipped some over time.
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Old May 23, 2003 | 02:51 PM
  #15  
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From: South Texas, RGV
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 LO3
Transmission: 700-R4
Originally posted by jfreeman74
I am going by the tach, which was working fine before. But I am mainly going by the way the engine sounds.
the way the engine sounds is cool. but I thought mine idled high by sound and by the stock tach. I have read a 1000 times on these boards to not go by the stock tach, that they are off, but figured it couldnt be off buy much. boy was I wrong. every time Id get the idle down to around 700 by the stock tack it would stall out and not restart. comes out mine actually idles at 850-900 and the stock tach reads almost 2000.

see if you can find some one that will loan you an aftermarket tach to check the rpm's with, or find a mech with a good snap-on timing light that reads rpm's to see what it actually is.
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