Hey guys i just swapped in a new 383 stroker in my 92 firebird (was 305 tbi) and im getting no fuel.

I checked the ECM fuse and it looks fine. This is weird because it worked fine before the swap. could there be a ground wire i missed or something?

All the other electronics on the car seem to work fine. Another thing i noticed it shows "full" on the gas meter even when the the key is out of the car. Is that normal?

What should i check? trying to think of something i could of forgot to hook back... I did cut a lot of the wiring harness off, but mainly things for like fuel injectors etc. I am carb'd now.

Thanks!
Shane

Does the pump relay operate?

Not unusual at all, after a swap to a carb....happened to me on my swap. I had to bypass the relay between the back seats to get my pump to run.. I am using a Malory three port adjustable fuel pressure regulator. You only want 5-7lbs of pressure with the carb...there are a few ways to "Fix" the problem. Do a search on the motor swap board for" fuel pump" and you will get plenty of info.

the car was carbed before the motor swap. i have a regulator and it was fine.

Vader, how do i test the realy? i dont even know where the hell it is :-(.

any ideas?


thanks

SB2,

The fuel pump relay should be mounted to the firewall near the power brake booster. You should find an orange, tan/white, black/white, red, and green/white wire in the connector. You should be able to measure 12VDC between the green/white and black/white wires while cranking, within two seconds of turning the ignition ON, or when the engine is running.

i can do that. That means i have to cut the wires and splice into it right? any simpler way (cleaner)?

Thanks.

isnt there also somewhere on the ALDL i can apply 12v power and see if it turns on?

No need to cut any wiring. Just back probe the connectors in the relay socket.

Uh Ok....

So wich was it ...????

Sorry for confusing you.

The the car has not been TBI in a long time. THe only reason i put (was 305 tbi) was so people would know exactly what model car I had, since the fuel system is still stock (except for the regulator).

The engine that was in there before the 383 was a CARBD 350.

Thanks,
Shane

Do you still have the ECM on board? After my swap, the pump would prime, it just wouldnt run after that. I had to rewire the pump to the ignition. When the key is on , the pump runs all the time. The fuel goes to the regulator, what isnt used returns to the tank via the return lines...the fuel is circulating constantly. This may not be the best fix, but my car is very unstock, and lacks most of the original harness.

i do still have the ecm on board, although a lot of the wires have been cut. (sensors,injectors, etc that i dont need anymore).

THe fuel system isnt even priming for 2 seconds.

I have taken the fuel line off so its just an open hose. I can turn the car on and nothing comes out.

I checked the ecm fuse and there is power there. The only thing i can think is the relay went bad or the fuel pump.

I just dont see how this happens when all i did was pull one motor out and stick another in (twice actually, but it worked after the first time).

I might of damaged the relay removing the engine. I will have to test with multimeter i guess.

try checking the 20A blade fuse for the FP mounted by the pass. side fender in the engine compartment before you go any further. It will be sitting in a cmall black enclosure bolted up near the battery with orange/red wires leading to/from it. I had the same thing happen to me. Damaged one of the constant 12V power wires on the connector to the oil pressure switch and it shorted out and both the pump and relay went dead from the loss of power. If you want to test eh pump itself, you can pull the connector off the fuel pump relay and run a jumper form a 12 volt sorce (like the battery or the terminal on the alternator nearby) and connect it to the white/tan wire in the connector for the fuel pump relay. This will supply 12 volts directly to the fuel pump. If the pump turns on, then there is nothing wrong with the pump. The orage wire on the other side of the connector is the const. 12 volt supply. If there is 12 volts there, then the relay is getting power and most likely, you have a dead relay. Hope this helps.