Hello all, I figured i should start a new thread, as i now have pics and the motor opened up. I also am going to be looking for max inputs. This car is going to be a slow rebuild, as funds and mail dictate. I will get this bird on the road though, to be sure!!!!!
For those not knowing my story here is a link....
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=171672

Now here is the new news.
I got both valve covers off, and like the oil filter, there is coolant/water up there. Much rust also, as seen in pics. Also i pulled the water pump, and man the outlet is plugged with rust crud!!!!. The hole you see i put there with my finger!!!!
Lastly there is no evidence of water on the plugs. NONE.
This is odd, i would say. I will get the rest of the motor pulled apart in a bit, but would really love to hear your inputs.
Thanks Shawn

 

#2

 

#3

 

ehh, pull that thing apart and clean it up

 

Note to self....

Buy new waterpump
Buy Rocker arms and studs
Got a feeling this list is gonna grow.

Happy Wrenching

RB

 

Add to your list and follow this to the letter......

Invest in WD-40 and spray....everything! Your gonna need it to break those exterior bolts loose.

Be careful when removing the plenum/runner torx bolts, aluminum and steel stick together like crazy, those are a b*tch and will break.

I was in Guam many ages ago...that pacific salty air is tough, tough, tough!

Are you AF or Army? My brother just left Torry Station a few months ago.

RB

 

Air Force, Indeed about the WD40. In know the list will be mid evil, but like the other post siad i got it for 150-170 US. EXCHANGE RATE VARIES I really need to a good pic.
The body is almost flawless, interior mint, and 18k milage.
Definitely a neat project for the next 4 years!!!!
SHAGGY OUT.

 

well there seems to be two blown head gaskets.....
I will have the motor down to the short block, by the end of tomorrow. So should i look to change all the bearings???
What about rings?
Again this build up will take a few months to fund, i just want to do it right once...... but also keep it financially sane. I plan this to be a street car over here, 4 years, some "spirited" driving back in the states. I am seroiusly thinking of tossing the heads, and getting a LT1 cam. I can get a cam from many in my club, that throw away the LT1 cams. Heads, not sure of yet.
So in conclusion, what would you say is needed to get the rotating assy right? thanks to all,
shawn

 

pic 2

 

Since you've had coolant in the sump (and oil), you'll definietly want to remove the caps and look at the bearings. Once you do, I have little doubt that you'll be wanting to change them. You'll be very fortunate if you don't end up at least polishing the crank.

 

man, how'd you get the passenger side valve cover off? i'm having a pain getting mine all the way off!

 

i hate the damn passenger side cover!!!!! freaking emission crap.

nice find. and good luck with the repairs. it'll be a nice ride once it's done.

 

How are you set for a machine shop over there? I know that in Germany we had pretty much no machine shop to get blocks bored, decked or heads milled. Without a shop its gonna be tough, especially when it comes to the cylinder bores, hope they aren't rusted.

 

Well there maybe shops, but they won't be set up for a v8 chevy.
I have hooked up with a retired Marine, that runs a base maintenace shop over here. He is a Chevy guy, even has a cherry 68 chevelle over here. He thinks the crank is fine, maybe shot bearings. The gaskets blew inward, and steamed my intake and valley, but no water made it to the cylinders. There is only surface rust on the cylinders, emery cloth type. thanks and later

 

Like I mentioned, you may be lucky and only need a crank polish. I hear you can get your crank polished pretty reasonably in some places off-base.

Good to hear that the bores can be saved with a hone/polish. If the guys on base have a scale, you might want to take some time and balance the rods/pistons. Even if you don't get to balance the crank with the rods, a good static balance is better than nothing, and better than what the factory does. There's always the option of a crank kit with standard pistons.

 

For those of you in the NEW, the motor has been opened up, and the crank surfaces look great on the rods, the front most main bearing looks like crap, maybe spun. The dude i am working with says the crank "should " be replaced. The cylinders are in great shape with no wear, or lip on top. Now here the trick, this is suppose to be a "budget" build. I have little or no machine shop here. Would pics help? I can take as many as you guys need.
I will be going back to the states in AUGUST, so parts stores and wrecking yards are an option, then. I would consider a crate motor, but who know what the shipping would be.
thanks again, this is going to be a TEAM THIRDGEN.ORG build up.
SUGGESTIONS????? shawn

oh and it is a 5.0, lb9 motor
And the budget is because, i don't yet know if the car can be imported back to the states.

 

When you are back in the States you could look at getting a new crank, but unless you are traveling Space-A you might have a problem taking it back with you (weight wise), You might as well see about a cam kit for it as well (cam, lifters, rockers, pushrods and maybe even springs)

How is the main bearing journal in the block where the bearing spun? If it is chewed up you may be S.O.L., without a machine shop to align hone the journals.

As far as getting it back to the states, if it was taken to Okinawa from the states by a GI, then it should have a manifest somewhere and Uncle Sam would be able to ship it for you. You just need to be sure it has ALL of the emmisions equipment installed or you won't be able to pick it up when you get back until you put it all on.
If you are missing the emmisions equipment, a wrecking yard would be a good place to get most of them, then have a friend/realitive mail them to you, as long as they aren't too big or heavy the FPO will ship them no problem.

 

If the block is not damaged, and the crank isn't gouged too deep, just get it turned and put new bearings in it. If the crank is too wasted to turn, order a "crank kit" (crank & bearings) from somewhere and have it shipped to you.

I'd be more concerend about figuring out why the main bearing spun in the first place, than about buying some "crate motor". Almost always, a single spun main bearing is either the result of dirt in the oil passages left over from a recent rebuild (in which case, there could be some more left); or a block or crank machined incorrectly; or improper assembly. In any case, the key is, it's from a recent rebuild. If the engine is old with lots of miles, or has low oil pressure, it will usually toast rod bearings instead of or in addition to the mains.

Also check the cam carefully to make sure there are no wiped-out lobes. That can shed enough metal into the system to where some of it will bypass the oil filter, and it typically ends up at the front of the motor. Again, problems resulting from a recent rebuild. If the root cause is a cam wipe-out then you need to find out why and fix that too, otherwise it will just continue to self-destruct.

 

Me love U long time GI, fifteen dollar....

 

I KNEW someone couldn't resist....

So, what's the deal with the "Okinawa TA needs a crank" thread? Did you find something definitive?

 

I'm really suprised that you havn't blown all your money on BC street !! At least in the early 80's it was a Rockin-Place-to be !!! I would suggest that when you come back to the "Real world" Travel lightly.......At least on the way back to the "Armpit of the World" you can stuff alot of the things you need for rehabbing the OKI machine. But then again......you are a Fly Boy with the best of luxuries and might not be as used to dragging seabags like the boys up at Camp Hansen !!! Just kidding Dude !!! At least your doing something constructive with your time there. BTW......From one service member to another, Thanks for being where you are and serving the good ol US of A !!!!

 

I have been laying low, but reading alot.
I still have no direction on the crank.... but the money is starting to roll in. I am really having battle with how much effort to put into this project. I have never done anything halfassed, but this ones a doosy. So many against even touching the 305, yet a motor is hard to come by for real cheap....
Ugh will get more info here quick, just wanted to let all know that the bodywork is almost done, so on to the motor/drivetrain.
Later and stay cool.... shawn

 

You pay bar fine?

 

Just an off-the-wall thought, but the Chinese manufacturing base for Scat cranks may be a lot closer to Honshu than the U.S. mainland. You might be able to arrange purchase or a complete rotating assembly through one of the common U.S. distributors and drop-shipment to you island.

Crated SBC engines usually go at about 520#, which could be expensive to ship. Then again, if it were marked "Auxilliary Power Unit", your uncle might pick up the freight tab...

 

i'm pretty sure that could be considered an "Auxilliary Power Unit"

 

Hello again, i have decided how the shortblock is going back together. I have called P.A.W., and talked to them about getting the master rebuild kit, and having them do the rotate /balance on it. The kit has every thing for the shortblock new rods/pistons/bearingsand crank all balanced to its self, for 140.00 extra.
I have talked to alot of folks, not yet you guys, about the need for align honing. The consesus so far is honing is not needed, therefore I will skip that. The block to my eye seems to be fine, but who knows right.....
I will do a little flex-honing on the cylinder walls, and call that good. I have to look seriously at my heads, and what i should do with those. I know it's early for that but i want to get ideas, as i can do things back in seattle when i go back in AUGUST. here are a couple of pics of the pass head, and all the rust that came outt the passages. Whatcha think? Start looking at the vette heads, or vortech. Or should i try to clean these up?
I can bring them back to the states, but again between shipping and the cost of machine work, new heads ie: vortech, world products or even the PRO toplines , can be had for 500-700 bucks.
Remember this is a budget build, with basically mail order stuff.
Lastly i will look into the legalities of trying to bring th car back after i am done here. This fact alone will have alot to do with the money spen, and performance i am trying to achieve. Thanks for listening..... now my turn to listen
shawn

 

pic1

 

Since I'm not sure of the make up of the bases over there any more this suggestion may or may not be valid.
If you have a weapons shop there (462's), see if you can put the heads in the tank they use for cleaning breaches and gun parts. The cleaner they use is very strong and should do a number on the rust and deposites in those heads. Also, if they have guns there (20mm M61A1 Gattling guns) they should have some long wire handled wire brushes that you could use to clean the passages.
If you don't have a weapons shop, you could try taking them to the wash rack and use the strongest cleaner you can get to soak the passages, then blast them out with high pressure water.

Which ever you do, be sure to coat the heads, inside and out with WD40 or other preservitive to prevent the flash rust from covering your nice clean heads.

 

TTT.

 

It would be really difficult for anyone to advise you about the heads from just a photo. I'd suggest having the heads tanked and Magnafluxed, but you mentioned that there are not many machining facilities on the island. I'll bet no one there has seen valves that size since Nakagima was making aircraft engines for Zekes and Bettys (before they switched to Subarus). Still. I would think that there must be some facilities around. However, a trip to the main islands might be as cost-prohibitive as a trip back to the States. That can't make your task any easier.

 

WOW.
I found a friggen machine shop, just on a whim. Drive around a blind corner and then another, and bam!!!!
Anyhow the guys didn't speak any english, but with some rough japanese/eng dictionary reading , and the sound effects, he got the idea.
It looks like for 95.00 i can have both heads milled flat for the head gaskets. And for another 95.00 he will clean out all the crap in the water passages. He even said, valve job........... kinda, and i was like WOW!!!
SOOOO, what do you think 200, bucks for cleaned up heads good, assuming they are still good ie: no cracks.
I may do a valve job, but dunno, need to have my interpreter there next time.
Also he gave me a thumbs up on the blocks, cylinder walls.

and his turn around time is 1 day!!!!!
OK T/A

 

Great! You found a place to do some machining. Now you need to find some new valves (1.94"). Presuming you have the '083 castings, you should be able to unshroud the chambers around the intake and squeeze a 1.94" intake in there. There should be no need to harden the seats in the iron heads, since the factory induction hardening usually goes that deep and wide. The machinist should be able to tell that by the chip rate from the cutter.

You'll also want them to bowl port the intake and exhaust sides, which will be almost as good as larger valves. The exhaust port bowls are disappointingly small and restrictive.

They should also have a mill, which can be used to clean off about 8mm of the stud bosses and allow you to install screwed studs. There's little chance that they'll have a 7/16-14 tap, so you'll have to provide one or do it yourself.

Of course, the first thing to do is have them cleaned and crack-tested. Then you can disassemble them and inspect, port, install screwed studs, etc. Don't bother having them resurfaced (milled) until you get them cleaned and can inspect them for twist. You may not need milling.

With a little more port and valve flow, the heads should be able to support better power production and still deliver adequate flow velocity to make good low-RPM torque. You should easily be able to fit a cam kit (with timing set and springs) and box of valves in your suitcase on a return trip.

 

I have a shot at an 86 vette l98 long block for 450.00 us dollars. The dude says it ran great, no smoke. He pulled the intake to sell on ebay, so now i want the motor. I know about the 2 piece RM seal. I also know about the no roller and iron headed part of the deal. I know the oil inside it now looks great, and the filter, a fram,is relatively new.
He told me was great running in his vette, but then went back to the states, and left the car for dead. It has since been parted out, and looks like scrap. What do you think?
It looks like about 800-900 to rebuild my 305, figure the master crank kit from P.A.W.
or this........
I would pull all the TIN off and look around as part of my build-up before install.
thanks shawn

 

Just to add to this i was stationed at Kadena and the PJ's have gattling guns so they might be able to help you if you ask. my 2 cents

Nick

 

nick, what would they have? A dip tank??? thanks

 

the L98 would be a better bet. also the japs over there would **** there pants from the low end torque. if is the L98 is in beter shape that i'm jump for that. i think that the 305 needs to be hot tanked, decked, flushed, honed and a bore (only cuz 305's lack power)

 

'86 305s have 1-piece rear main seals. I was under the impression 350s did, too.

(I thought you were rotating in August. Something happen?)

 

no idea but since someone brought up the gun idea i remebered that.

 

Yes, they should have a tank and some nice stiff barrel brushes as well. In the "old" days when I was in the AF we had heated trich vats, that would remove all the carbon and most of the rust scale as well. Since the EPA has taken over government I doubt they have the trich vats any more, butthey will have a vat of some kind for cleaning the breeches for the guns and other parts of ejector racks.

 

no rotating.... not do to go back permanent til 01/07. I was going back to get my kid, but only made it as far as HAWAII. Then plane broke and i had to come back here. NO JUNKYARD TIME MAKES ME A SAD BOY!!!
Cool will have to ask around, about the dip tank. I will know if i get the 350 by wed. your times...
I know my wish list includes a decent stall converter, and a set of 3.42's. No sense in having 2.73 when the max(legal) speed is 90kph. Thats about 50 +/-
.........................................................................................................

But all this other stuff is like a year and half away. Gotta get it running, then looking good and then legal for the street of japan.
thanks again to all.
shawn

 

oK, i finally got the 86 vette, 350 motor.

All sensors and accesories, I GRABBED!!!
I know most of the stuff i will toss, in favor of the correct T/A accessories. I have yet to pull the pan, just the covers. The motor has NO sludge anywhere.
Ok here is the down and dirty.
1) I can just hog out the 89 intake center holes, and slap it on the '86 block?
2) Can I install the 1 piece rear seal be put on the 2 piece block?
3) I have both 1 piece, and 2 piece, flexplates which do i use?

I plan to just leave all the sensors insalled, and basically run like a 1989 305 in disguise, ie: EGR HOOKED UP Only the magnesium valve covers will give it away.
Any other thought s from you guys?
I get my harbor frieght engine stand here this week

 

Yes. Except it bolts to the heads.

No.

The only "conversion" I've heard about is an adapter to allow use of a 2-piece rear main seal crank in a 1-piece block.

The flexplate type goes with the crank type. If it really is a 2-piece, then you need a 153-tooth, no-balance-weight type flexplate. Nothing else will bolt to the crank.

Valve covers shouldn't be a problem. Remove anything that says "350" if you can.

Mid-year '86, Vettes got aluminum heads. Yours doesn't happen to have them, does it? If so, EGR will be a little different. It probably isn't, though, especially if it has a 2-piece rear main seal.

 

nope got iron, 624 heads, and 1 PIECE SEAL!!!
This is good cuz i already bought a Complete gasket set for a 1 piece design.
Would suck to have to order back to the states, and wait for the shipping.
I may replace the springs..... and i guess it is good news as far as cams go....
I still want to keep the money in to a minimum, cuz of the rust!!!
Ugh!!!
It is the stuff that has gotten down into the joints in the fire wall tha tmake me not want to bring this car back to the states......
Any ideas for this..... P.m. me AND I WILL GLADLY GET INTO THE SPECIFICS!!!!
ANYhow, looks like i have an extra flexplate.
later shawn

 

I was going to say it is 1-piece if it is '86, but there's been too many wierd things to come out of the factory to say for certain (early '86 could be left-over '85 parts, for instance).

POR and Eastwood make some rust conversion and preventive stuff that may get into those joints and stop the rust. But, the salt air there is really nasty. A full Zebart when the car is brand new is about the only way to avoid it, and even then, it probably only slows it down.

When I was over there in '74, I paid $100 for a '71 Datsun that looked 10 years old. I had to repaint it to get it past inspection. It probably never saw New Years 1980.