HERE'S THE DEAL. JUST PUT A NEW MOTOR/TRANNY IN MY TPI IROC.NEW STARTER, BUT WILL NOT START. ONLY CRANKS BUT DOES NOT EVEN SOUND LIKE IT WANTS TO START. HAS GAS, TIMED RIGHT,RIGHT FIRING ORDER, AND GETS A SPARK. THERE IS A PULSE GETTING TO THE INJECTORS AND THE PLUGS SMELL OF GAS. TRIED A BRAND NEW COMPUTER IN IT BUT NOTHING. BEEN TRYING FOR 5DAYS NOW AND HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IT COULD BE. ALSO ENGINE HAS COMPRESSION. IF ANYONE KNOWS ANYTHING PLEASE LET ME KNOW. MAYBE I FORGOT SOMETHING. THANKS

 

You think maybe the distributor is off enough.. does it sputter and pop at all??? Have fuel, and good spark?? Plugs really fouled?

 

well lets see, maybe your distributer was installed 180 degree off. But before you look to see if that is the case, loosen the hold down clamp on your distributer, get your buddy to crank the car, and slowly rotate the distributer untill you turnover. (i assume your battery is freshly charged,this will drain a battery rather quick) if you are getting fuel,spark,and good compression, the other thing it could be is fouled plugs. good luck man, and please, post your findings here so we will know whats up

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if you are still stumped, check out my website click on technical on my home page then click on best damn garage on the net. then click on garage then diagnosing a no start condition. good luck

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for starters, set your motor to TDC and then put #1 plug over top of the rotor in order of 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 going in a clockwise direction.. if you are confused, check out my distrib stabbing FAQ on my website here

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'86 IROC-Z 305/auto with no cat, performance chip, shift kit, and 4.11s
'87 IROC-Z factory loaded with every option, 84,000 miles

Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

 

this does sound like a distributer problem to me, and apparently i am not the only one here. Your firing order is as follows. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. bring cylinder 1 to TDC, remove the distributer cap, is the point on the rotor pointing at the #1 cylinder????. if it is not, don't roll the motor, remove the distributer and get it set in there on the right tooth so that the distributer is sitting properly, and pointing at the number 1 cylinder. replace the cap. start with plug number 1, should be snapped on to the point right over top of the rotor pointing at 1. follow all of the wires around again. clockwise they will run 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, make sure that they are.

if it does not start, start eliminating possiblities 1 by one, is everything plugged in properly, all connections are sound, fuel pressure is good, all sensors connected properly idle is set etc etc etc.

did the motor run good before you dropped it in?. have you installed all of the parts from the block. does anything not look right to you? to anyone else?.

swapping a motor is not as easy as it looks, there are alot of things that can go wrong. e-mail me if you need any more help

 

When you installed the engine, did you remember to attach the ground straps to the firewall on the back passenger side of the engine? A guy here last year had the very same problem. He checked and they were not connected. This is very common mistake because they are not easy to get to when the engine is in and they get overlooked. Should be two or three twisted together. Don't know what their for, but if they are not connected the car will not start. There will not be a spark. Good luck.

 

Thanks for replying guys! The car still will not start. Plugs are brand new and they are not fouled. I timed the car then brought it to a mechanic where it has been siting for the past 4days. He even timed. All ground straps are on, everything is plugged in, engine does not spit or anything. just cranks.I never heard the engine run since i got it back from the machine shop.It's a 406 with a lot of time & money in it. Superram,58mmtb,edel intake,24lb holley injectors, you name it I upgraded it. This thing should start itself. Keep the ideas coming and thanks again, Mike

 

Be careful!!! When they are saying TDC, they mean TDC of the compresion stroke, not exhaust stroke!!! Pull plug and put finger over hole, rotate engine til finger gets pushed by air and slowly bring harmonic balancer lines to around TDC, then do distributor rotor alignment stuff.

 

Just a thought...Is the mechanical timing on the cam correct?

 

That is exactly what I thought freeze, you see the engine that currently resides in my Z did the exact same thing and sure enough the I failed to line up the correct marks on the crank and cam gears. I have the multi indexed crank gear and I was just not paying attention when I put it together. I have built quite a few engines and I have never had one that did not fire right off until last year when I built my TPI engine. It was very frustrating because I never had any trouble before but finally my Dad suggested I check the gears because it was a last ditch effort and he hit it right, we lined up the marks and it fired off as soon as I hit the ignition switch.

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"84Z28/'91 305TPI comp cam flowmaster TB coolant bypass/shutoff valve to heater core MAT relocated Ram-Air(home-made) gutted air-box IROC ground effects/wheels GY245/50's 700R4 superior shift kit/ corvette servo(excellent shift kit BTW) Rebuilt engine and transplanted it myself. Love this engine!
LOW performance people should drive low performance vehicles!

[This message has been edited by JP84ZROC (edited September 16, 2000).]