anyone know the specs on these pos's????

 

I believe they will hold about a 14-footer stationary on a 6:1 rode in less than a gale.

 

lol no seiriously, trying to figure out if its better than these heads sitting in my garage....im acheing to put em in the machine shop to be ported and polished if they are better than l03

they better than 1.84"/1.5" valves, 58cc chambers ???
i wanna know the specs on these pos L03's

 

They are 1.84"/1.5", 58cc. They are also the "swirl-port" design, which adds about an extra 3" of anchoring capability, from the extra weight of the swirl ramps.

I'm serious too. They are garbage. Get rid of them, they are the wrong thing to spend any money or effort on. There will be no payback from it.

 

We use em out in tornado country to keep the tarp down on our
trailers in heavy storms.

They also make nice mailbox posts, although Ford 302CID crankshafts are the prefered cadidate.

I think L03 (305 TBI) heads are regarded as the absolute worst
heads available. In which case the answer to your question is
Avoid them at all costs.

You mentioned in another thread that you have a set of 416s
that fit your car? They make much better heads But they are
perimiter style, whereas the L03s are center bolt.
081s are similar to 416s except they are center bolt.

Assuming your engine is a standard 92 305 TBI with L03 heads,
you want 081 castings.
I am not sure what all is involved in modifying 416s to fix a center-bolt pattern. I have seen threads talking about it.

 

ok now im confused.....are these heads , from this 86 305 , better or worse than the L03 heads.....the specs on the 86 305 heads are 1.84"/1.5" valves, 58cc chambers .....


what are the specs on L03's??

sorry if i confused anyone in the process

 

Yes, the 416 is a better head. They and the L03 heads have teh same size valves and chambers. Valve sizes and chamber sizes don't begin to tell all that can possibly be different about heads; those numbers are only the tip of the iceberg. Which, incidentally, the L03 heads have a reasonably good specification for breaking up small icebergs; so you might not want to trash them just yet, in case you think you might run across some of those in your yard.

 

well i have the 416's sitting in my garage with only 16k on them. stick em on the l03 or dont bother.

also, any ideas to make these 416 better? port, polish, bored ut the intake valves to 1.94? roller rockers...new spirngs. what else?? what type springs? anyone have a part #?? sorry about all the questions guys, but i have an l03, i feel the need for SPEED, not....plain..crap

 

Things I found in my searches this week:
Good reading, lotsa info hidden in there


https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...light=081+port

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...light=081+port

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...light=081+port

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...light=081+port

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=117410

 

ok so i looked into the prices on roller rockers, valves, valve springs, retainers, THEN machine shop cost.....unless i was looking at the wrong parts

valves ..50 bucks
springs 100 bucks
roller rockers...200 bucks
retainers, 160 --those were titanium, couldnt find any cheap ones--

this is starting to add way up there....how much is a machine shop gonna charge for port, polish, and bore out the intake valves?????

OR should i just get new heads, ...any suggestions for a tight budget????

 

Those items will have to be purchased either way.
Even if they come with the heads, the cost will be added in.

New head$ + part$ + port/poli$h (optional?)
vs
Junkyard head$ + part$ + port/poli$h

[Note: If you already did the cam and your current setup is
working well, you don't HAVE to replace all those items unless you
want to upgrade them.]

I found these prices for the World Castings products:
(You might be able to get em cheaper elsewhere)

http://flatlanderracing.com/worldsbcsr.html
http://flatlanderracing.com/worldsbcsrtorq.html


It's not a $150 bolt on either way. I wish it were that cheap
But $/hp, it's not a bad deal.

 

the cam is working out very well actually, no slung rods, no bent valves etc, ...so what im thinking, for now, ...is just get the port , polish, and the intake bored out to 1.94. no new springs, no new rocker arms * as rocker arms can be added without taking a head off.*

this a good plan or not? once again sorry for the questions, i just like to have a game plan....something that gets me out of bed the next day lol.

im not running a super high cam so i think the springs and all are ok. --unless someones simply suggests new springs--

any other game plan that will work cost efficiant wise???

 

Suggested parts:

Comp 981 springs = $60
Comp 742 retainers = $60
Comp 601 keepers = $7
Manley 10722-8 intake valves = $68
Manley 10777-8 exhaust valves = $60
Comp 1416 Steel roller-tip 1.6 rockers = $146
Standard Abrasives porting kit = $40

 

RB has a point, you could always port them yourself. If you feel
up to it *heehee* I'd do some reading on the subject first though.

Hey, if you get real good at it you can make money doing it
for others who don't have the *****

But you are right, you can always do rockers later.
Or save your money and do it all at once later.
(I know ... I know ... I hate doing it that way too LOL)

 

lol @ the fact that no one in my town/city will port and polish....looks like im gonna have to do it, .....does the kit come wiht any type of template???? what should i use as a template??

 

Manifold gaskets make excellent templates.
If the porting matches the gasket it is about as big as you are
gonna get it.

As for porting inside the combustion chamber, I'd find some
literature before diving in.

Good info on DIY head porting :
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm

I read some great books from GM engineering when we redid my 95 bird. I picked it up at the parts counter at the dealership (Imagine that! LOL). Granted, we used a flowbench and some
scrapyard heads to test and perfect the design.

 

i honestly want just the intake manifold ports andd header ports, ported.....is that even worth doing??? i think i could do that, .the rest looks real difficult.

im going to buy a complete POS head and practice first.

 

Gasket matching isn't where the big improvements are made.

The place that yields the most results is right behind the valve, in the "bowl" or "pocket". Most castings have lots of extra material all around there, and then they just run a circular cutter into it to create the valve seat; the result looks .... well, just look at it and see. Cleaning up all those steps and angles and rough edges is the most important thing. After that, the next biggest improvement is smoothing and streamlining the valve guide; after that, smoothing and curving the "short side" radius, without lowering the port floor; after that, polishing the exhaust port; and last of all, gasket-matching the intake port. Significantly altering the intake port volume or shape is something best left to people with methods for measuring whether it helps or harms the overall situation.

As far as in-chamber work, I would strongly advise against changing the chamber shape very much. However, if you take a head gasket of the bore size you're going to use, and lay the vertical walls of the chaber back at an angle right around the intake valve, you can make a huge improvement in low-lift flow, because the valve (especially a problem when you cut in larger valves) won't be right up against that surface of the chamber. Polish the chamber, and make absolutely certain that there are no sharp edges of any kind left in the chamber; either on top of the piston, or around the edge of the chamber where it meets the deck, or around the spark plug threads.

Practice is a great idea. Maybe use your L03 heads as scrap iron to practice on.

 

FINALLY ! I use for the L03s They aren't so useless after all

 

lol anyone have pictures of these things im supposed t GRIND DOWN in my heads!! heh

 

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Slow,

Follow the link at the end of my sig. It is exactly what you are looking for