Hi all, a while back I was testing my ratchet shifter by b&m installed by the previous owner, turned off the car, then it wouldn't turn back on. Few weeks later here I am trying to fix it.

So far I took out the starter and tested it on a power supply, it was good. Tested the neutral safety switch by putting the car in reverse and sure enough the reverse lights came on. I dont really know how to check anything else honestly.

When I go to start the car it just buzzes at me. A really loud and annoying buzz.

 

Sounds like bad connections in the battery cables somewhere. Possibly the batt itself.

Not a problem with the starter circuit in the car.

 

Ill check it when I get home (at the recruiters office right now) my 92 chevy 1500 just blew up yesterday but has a good battery, could I use the battery from it?

 

If the 1500 uses side posts, should bolt up just fine. Might not fit in the tray, but would be good enough to test at least if it has the side posts. Also, if you have a multimeter, you can just check your battery to see if it's got roundabouts 12v.

I wonder though, since you said you checked the starter separately... I wonder if it could be VATS acting funny, I've had it wig out on me at random a couple times over the last decade... checking battery first is a good start though.
Ignore that, somehow completely looked over the fact that you have an '84, VATS didn't exist yet

 

sounds like the issue is coming after you had some fun with the aftermarket shifter so I would start there. Having used and installed a couple B&M ratchet shifters I can tell you that there are 2 switches on the shifter. The one switch is for the reverse lights whch you have verified works. I would check the other switch on the shifter. It has 2 detents on it that allow the car to start in both park and neutral. First check to make sure the switch is plugged in, second make sure it is making contact in the correct shifter gears (a problem I have had a few times) because the switch is adjustable. And lastly if everything checks out test continuity of the switch. Or if you want to eliminate the whole shifter assembly as a whole, make sure car is in park, jump the neutral safety switch circuit on shifter and see if it starts that way?

 

Seems like a pretty cut/dry troubleshooting solution. You did X and Y happened immediately after. Time to look at anything related to X that affects Y. IE the neutral safety switch.

 

So I just checked the battery and its holding at 12.47 volts, cant be that. And on the b&m ratchet shifters can you tell me where the second switch is? All I see is one switch with 2 contacts to the shifter. And is there a way I can bypass the nss to start the car? (I have tried wiggling the shifter when starting and that did not work)

 

How so?

What is the voltage WHILE IT'S IN THE ACT OF SCREWING UP? That is, when you're watching your meter and you have your assistant turn the key and IT SCREWS UP, what then? What's the voltage across the terminals themselves (if you can get to them), and what's the voltage across the cable ends, WHILE IT'S IN THE ACT OF SCREWING UP?

I cannot emphasize the importance of getting data from what happens WHILE IT'S IN THE ACT OF SCREWING UP. Data obtained while it's NOT ACTUALLY IN THE VERY ACT OF SCREWING UP is largely useless.

Of course. Butt you don't need that for anything. All that stuff is working fine. Your problem is MUCH closer to the battery.

 

Ah, thank you, Ill try to get those readings because Im still trying to get this battery out of my truck

 

Battery stays above 12v when I turn the key

 

Update: tried new battery same issue

 

On the switch it should have 4 leads on it because it is a double micro switch, 2 for the reverse and 2 for the nss, I would remove the shifter handle, boot and shifter plate so all you can see is the actual funtioning parts. Watch the mechanism move and see whcih one of the leads makes contact with detents that fall in park and neutral. You should be able to hear the switch and see the switch funtion if you move it slowly between P,R and OD. Once you isolate which side of the switch is the nss you can unplug it and jump the leads. Like before make sure the car is properly in Park or Neutral prior to trying to start it.

 

you can see the switch in this picture. it looks like the top 2 leads follow along with one button and go for the reverse lights and the bottom one has 2 buttons meaning that little lever gets pushed in 2 position Park and Neutral.

 

Worked on aftermarket shifter and now car won't start. It has nothing to do with your reverse switch. You did something to the neutral start switch.

 

Ill go out and test the nss now, but how would I jump it?

 

When I manually manipulate the reverse portion of the switch I hear a click but when I manipulate the neutral portion there is nothing, is the switch dead or is that normal?

 

YALL ARE AMAZING ITS THE SWITCH

Can't believe it was that easy, thank you guys so much

 

AWESOME! so you could jump that switch with jumper wire. Or go online and buy another one. there are 2 switches there stacked on top of each other. just make sure you adjust them to make contact properly after install. Alternatively you could wire those leads to you own hidden kill switch?

 

I actually just got done i stalling it as a killswitch lol, I got it hidden in the ashtray

 

You just gave away your secret! Now if you could just post your address for a secret joy ride I think that should square us all up! Haha