i'm gonna start a separate thread for my questions while i'm learning to rebuild to keep them organized

number 1: what engine kit should i get? i found this one on ebay that looks good, but i have a '91 roller block and the kit is for pre '86 engines. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2416993648
the question is, can i use the pistons, freeze plugs, gaskets, and bearings from this kit? i could sell whatever i don't use. the timing set i have now only has about 6,000 miles on it so i could probably reuse that

number 2: are the factory piston pins floating or pressed? if i reuse my rods does it matter if the new pistons are floating or pressed?

Thanks!

 

You can buy that kit, but there are quite a few things you'll need to buy.

A 1 pc. rear main seal.

A different oil pan gasket.

You can use the cam that's in the kit, but you'll need new pushrods. Hyd. cams use longer pushrods than hyd roller cams.

If you don't use that cam, you'll have to buy a new (or used) roller cam. Then (as you mentioned), you'll need a different timing chain set.

As far as I can think of, that should be it.

The factory pistons are pressed. Floating pistons are used more by race teams for quick rebuilds.

I'm sure those pistons are pressed on, so you need not worry.

 

cool. do new pistons usually come with new wrist pins and retainers, or is that something i need to get separate?

i already have the cam that i plan on using, it's already in the engine.

is it a good idea to get new bolts for the bottom end or can the factory ones be reused safely?

 

Well the cam part is cool. Less $$ spent.

The pistons SHOULD have wrist pins already, and there are no retainers. By being pressed into the rod, they won't come out, or at least I've never seen it happen.

A machine shop will do that for you.

One more thing, you'll need new valve cover gaskets if you're gonna use center bolt heads.

And I may be wrong about the oil pan gasket. It all depends on where your dipstick is, and where on the block the kit is made for.

 

OH..... I missed the question about bolts.

It's OK to reuse the bolts, but I never do. It's ~$22 for ARP main bolts ($26 for 4 bolt mains), and about $42 for rod bolts. Money well spent IMHO.

 

do i have a large or small journal crank? is there an advantage to using studs as opposed to bolts?

 

What I would do first, Ukraine Train, is e-mail the seller and ask him if he has an kit for your particular application. Many of these companies do these EBAY auctions just to send feelers out. They often have exactly what you need for a very reasonable price.

 

Unless you have an engine block that was cast before 1969, you have the "medium journal".

There's a list at www.mortec.com/journal.htm that will tell you the differences.

As far as studs go, that's more of a convenience than anything. They're good for race teams that are going to tear the block down more often. That way they can leave the studs in and not worry about harming the threads in the bolt holes. Bolts are fine for a street engine.

If you're going to run a windage tray, you'll need studs for that. They're made specifically for a windage tray though. I guess you could call them studs with an extension above them with threads on the end.

 

what would be a better deal? i can get my X rods reconditioned for $100 or i can get a set of reconditioned #1016 Wheeler rods for the same price. which of these is better? the wheeler rods already come with ARP bolts so that would save me a few bucks

 

TTT and...

should I get my rotating assembly balanced? I will be reusing my crank and rods so the only new thing will be the pistons. just as an fyi, the pistons are federal mogul hypereutectic, 10:1.